The Life of Chaumont Devin--letters, journal entries, and notes. A letter from my older brother, Morris, to my mother's mother, written (probably with mother's help) about 200 miles south of Japan, aboard the tjikarang. The time is early april, 1938. Dear Grandma, We left Japan yesterday, and there are only two other passengers on this boat besides ourselves. Daddy tried to steer this boat, and got five degrees off course. He is having a wonderful time, as he likes boats so much. The captain eats at the table with Daddy, Shirley, and Mother. I was up on top, and watched them shoot the sun. This tells how much to retard the clock. Also, whether we are on course or not. I looked through the thing they shoot it with. The sun is all big, and red, and round. You look through another telescope, and it makes it little. It is getting warm down in this ocean. We will soon put on our white togs. The man in the hotel at Kobe gave the girls beads, and they are stringing them. They are the same kind Mama used to have when she was a little girl. He gave us boys some puzzles. We like them. He gave us money to spend. His name is Henry Sanford, and he used to run a bicycle shop in Napa, so he and mother had a fine visit, all about Calestoga, and Saint Helena, etc. He has lived in Kobe since 1898. We went to a Korean church, and we had to take off our shoes. We went to Japanese houses and ate sukiaki. They cook it right before you. It has fresh meat in it, bean sprouts, brown gravy, vegetables, etc. They keep adding some more as you eat it up. Each person has a bowl of rice, and the sukiaki is fished out with chopsticks and eaten off the top of the rice with some of the rice. We ate with chopsticks, and it was fun. Mother went up in the mountains. The girls went to Nara, and saw the great Buddha. It had 966 girls on its head. They rang the big temple bell. It was thirteen and a half feet high, and weighed forty-eight tons. They crawled through a hole. That meant they will be able to get into heaven. We stayed home and had an American meal, which tasted very good as we were hungry for some home food. My new teeth are all growing in. I am the only one who has not been seasick. I like to ride on boats. The cherry blossoms were beautiful in Japan. Love from Morris. Tell Grandpa we've been praying for him to be well. I hope his flowers are growing good. Love, Morris. End letter. End letter. Next letter: april 6, 1938 Dear Florence, I thought you'd like this map of our journey. We are almost exactly on the equator this morning. We woke up early, and it was so calm in the midst of the Celebes sea that we could see fish in the water, coconuts and bananas floating, etc. All of a sudden we rode into such a tropical rain as we'd never seen before. The only thing that anywhere near equals it was the storm we had in Michigan the year we went east. We cannot imagine that it can be so cool this near the equator. We've not suffered anything so far with the heat. These rains cool off the atmosphere. We want you to take a big map and look at the two little islands at the very southeastern tip of the Philippines. We passed between the mainland and these islands into the Celebes Sea. It was dark, but we had a good view of the mountains on the Philippines all day. We didn't realize that we were going so close to the kingdom of the Sultan of Sulu. And now, this morning, we're looking at the island of Celebes. I had always thought of the Philippines as a hot, dry place; but the mountains are covered with dense jungle, and it's about as hot and steamy as I'd pictured it dry. We've had flying fish all the way so far, and this sea is full of them. I feel rather sad that we've left the Pacific. It always seemed like home was just across it. But now, strange waters, strange places. Really, we've just had a wonderful trip. We'll never forget the things we've seen and heard. Only one more day until we meet Floyd Brown in Makassar. What a time of rejoicing that will be! We stay there three days, then sail three more to get to Amboina on the fourteenth. We've all gotten fat, just eating, sleeping, and sitting around. What a life! I keep feeling like you're along with us, Florence. You always liked boat trips so much. It's surprising how the time passes. You'd think it would go very slowly, but we find it passes quickly from one meal time to another. There's just a honeymoon couple, Mr. and Mrs. Bennet, besides ourselves. They are very retiring, and don't bother us a bit. The children and the captain are old pals. He is so nice to us, and kids and teases the children all the time. They all spoil Morris on every boat, as Chinese love children, and play with them all the time. Our children learn to write Chinese numbers to one hundred in no time at all. We keep on with the Malay, too, and I hope it will come as quickly so that we can do the Lord's work without wasting time. I guess there will be both Dutch and Malay schools in ambon. What a help it will be to have Floyd Brown advise us about such things. We'd feel lonely indeed without anyone. We're getting tanned up, but Ralph has a real sunburn. Unless it should become very clear, we cannot see Borneo, as wee keep close to the Celebes side. I drew a pencil mark the way our boat came. I have not been much seasick at all. The first two or three days, on both boats, I didn't feel too good; but soon got over it. It's only when the boat rolls a lot that my stomach doesn't take it. The children have surely had a wonderful time, whether they realize it or not. I'm sure it will prove of value to them later in life. Almost everyone we meet speaks several languages. They think nothing of it, as it's practically necessary in these islands, where dialects are prevelant. Most officers on this boat speak Dutch, English, Malay, and Pidgin English. well, I must write some more letters. How we look forward to hearing from you once more when we get to ambon. It seems ages since we heard in one way, and then sometimes it only seems like a day or two since we left home. We've not suffered much so far from homesickness, though I think perhaps Shirley does. Floyd Brown just met us here in Makassar. What a wonderful day! Much love, Edna. Edna Devin says this letter was written to her sister, Florence Buell, and to her mother, who was still living at the time. She says it was written aboard the Java-China-Japan Line steamer, "Tjikarang," a freighter. Next letter: Makassar Sunday morning April 10, 1938 Dear folks at home, We arrived in Makassar Friday morning, at six o'clock--which was Cherry Lee's birthday. The sunrise over Makassar was beautiful. But Floyd was not at the dock. The Lord wonderfully helped us. We got into the wrong office at the steamship company, and in walked a dutchman who said, "oh, I'll just send my boy up to the Pinkster Kirk" (the Pentecostal church, in other words) "to get Mr. Brown." So we decided it was the right office after all! The greetings with Floyd were in public, and many laughed as we all exchanged kisses, especially at Ralph and Floyd. How thankful we were to be this far on our journey. The saints had three nice rooms all prepared for us, though they did not expect us till Saturday. We have had a wonderful time here. Went to a tea yesterday with the Missionary Alliance saints, who have received us so royally. We surely thank God! their labours in New Guinea will be an entirely different field from ours, so we can fellowship and pray one for the other. Right now, after three Sunday Schools, one after the other, we are getting rested before we eat. Floyd is cooking dinner. I took a picture of him with three native babus cooking. So much to write, I don't know where to begin. This is the most beautiful place we've ever seen anywhere in the world, and the most interesting. When the boat arrived, hundreds of Mohammedans and Malays, in their bright-colored skirts, called sarongs, and fezzes, poured onto the ship like ants, and began to unload it. We had never seen such a sight! they are so small! no larger than Rod. And many are smaller. But powerful muscles help them do hard work. There are coconut and banana palms all over town, and a lush green foliage, and grass so bright, spotted with gorgeous flowers. Our bouquette is lavender and purple orchids and maidenhair ferns--easily worth $25 in your land! they were picked just outside, in the garden. Bouganville and lantana, hibiscus, oleandar, are in almost every garden, and wild along the roads and lanes in the country. The whole city reminds us of an exotic greenhouse, full of ferns and orchids. Lacy trees line the lanes and roadways. It is a lovely town, as the Dutch build so much better than the Japanese. The style of the architecture smacks loudly of the Spanish, but Ralph thinks perhaps it is Portuguese. The streets downtown remind me of Santa Barbara--all bright colors, and whitwash, tile roofs, shutters, and overhanging balconies. Out farther the houses and gardens are more spacious, and all houses have tile floors. Rents are very cheap. The Missionary Alliance house we were in costs only $32.50 American money a month, and is like a Hollywood mansion, and nearly as large. A servant's quarters are in the rear. Very few automobiles here. All bicycles, but girls and women ride them too. The taxies here are three-wheeled bicycle carts. Mohammedans peddle them, and for five or ten cents, three or four of us can ride for an hour or two this way. I took pictures of this also. Now Floyd was holding revival services here when we arrived, as he'd been here two weeks ahead of us. They are wonderful! God is blessing, and the glory has come down. Souls are being re-claimed, saved, healed, and filled with the Spirit. The saints are so cordial and lovely to us. The little Mohammedan babus, or servants, are so cute--about teedle's size, but grown women. Very pretty. Lots of jewellery. One has an American $20 gold piece on a gold chain about her neck, though I doubt if it's real. Pentecost is in much the same state here as in the United States. There is a luke-warmness, some division and backslidings; but some are coming out for God. Two boys from our bible school in Java are here. Nineteen years old, but they seem about as powerful for God as Roderick, and perhaps not as much established. Yet they are such a contrast compared to the sinners, it is a joy to behold what God can do. The music is beautiful. It is better than any in the United States we have ever heard. It is not like Hawaiian, and yet similar. A choir of about fifteen young people sing unaccompanied, and it is much better than our Bethel choir at home of a hundred and fifty voices. They sure can sing! Oh, yes, we are not as hot here as summer days at your house. Though we sweat plenty, right now, while I am writing, I am not sweating. A cool breeze comes in, and it is noon. About two to four in the afternoon is the hottest time, and everyone undresses and goes to bed, then takes a cold shower and dresses. Meetings start early, at six forty-five, but the heat stays with us pretty well until late evening. The last part of the night and early morning is cool, so people arise about four a.m. We are to have free rent at Ambon, and I feel sure we'll be most comfortable, as they say it's as cool or more so than here. Now we are very glad we studied Malay, as we certainly find it's easy to pick up, because we already have almost a complete vocabulary. We can ask for things, greet people, and understand much already. Nearly all speak a few words of English, which helps. Floyd speaks Malay so fluently, and interprets for us. And maybe you think I wasn't thrilled our first night here, bringing the word of God, Floyd interpreting, with the power of God! not like our Japanese meetings. One thing we miss very much. As soon as we left the United States, Sunday dropped right out of the calendar. No different from any other day. Japan and the Indies observe all days alike except their own holidays. Japanese children go to school on Saturday, many of them. Americans may seem lax about Sunday, but you'll never know what it means until you've been away like this, even just to have the stores closed! The food we've had so far has been American, and good, and just what we like; but Floyd says they're cooking it especially for us. So we're not initiated. I guess food is very plentiful, and some of the new fruits are delicious. Pisang, pronounced "pea song," is banana, so we have seventy-two kinds in the Indies. Say, they are delicious, and range in size from finger length to sticks of stove-wood weighing two pounds apiece! There is such a mixture of people here we can't puzzle them out. We don't know yet which are Malays, Buginese, Hindustani, Makassarese, Javanese, etc. But Floyd Brown knows them apart. Some half-casts speak perfectly good English. Oh, yes, there are no mosquitoes or flies to speak of. In fact, no flies at all. And no screens. I don't know whether it's just the season, or always this way. The mosquitoes are not near as bad as right in our yards in Fresno. Ants are very thick, and several sizes and kinds, and little tiny lizards come indoors, but they are kind of pets, because they eat bugs and mosquitoes, and the Lord made them look real cute to me, so I like them. This is a busy port. Seven big ships were docked, already loading and unloading when the Tjikarang came steaming in. The shops seem very modern, and you can buy anything you want here. The women dress very much like we do at home, except the Mohammedans. They wear long skirts, and have bare feet and legs. The men have gorgeous robes, actually sarongs, pink, red, purple, blue, no orange or yellow. A black or red fez for their heads. Floyd doesn't seem to want to know the home news at all, which puzzles me. He didn't even ask how his mother is, but we told him most of it anyhow. I think it is very hard on him having to speak English to us, Malay to the household, and the meetings on top of it all. You'd laugh to see them do our laundry. Two Mohammedan boys squat on the tiled cement floor, and soak a bunch in clear water, take out a piece, lay it on top of the tile, soap it good, and brush it or pound it. Each piece done laboriously by hand, ironed on a table with a charcoal iron. It is big, and the coals are right in it. Floyd's meal was mashed potatoes, fried chicken, cucombers, creamed salad. Then a chinese saint sent in a whole dinner! Did we eat! Well, rather! I am trying to think of everything you'll want to know. We expect letters at Ambon. I wrote Ginger, but you can always send my letters along to her if you want to. She has been writing such sweet letters to us, and we surely enjoy them. My plan is to write one letter per family. Aina for the Bartholomews, Edith Gregory for the Tracies, Nelda Lincoln for theirs, etc. Of course our circular letters will soon come out now. Our customs are all paid. God so wonderfully undertook! Floyd had already contacted an official, who reduced all our declarations from dollars to guilders, and even then cut off a lot, and never opened a box. A guilder is fifty-six cents, but buys much more here than a dollar does in America. We were prepared to pay as much as $100 duty, and were only charged about $35. We do praise the Lord for that! Floyd and Roderick hit it off fine. I hope they continue to. I think it is wonderful how the children have stood everything, and really behaved better than at home most of the time. Rod tries to go lickety-larrup riding bicycles, etc., but has to sit down and cool off, which is good for him. He got so excited over Sunday school this morning, he says he can't wait until we get to Ambon and have our own. I'm so glad he is moved of God this way. The little naked native children are just darling. Floyd says the Sunday school is neglected much in the Indies, so perhaps God will give Roderick the burden. Morris is so popular everywhere we go, I hope he doesn't get spoiled. I suppose it's because there are so few white children. There are many more whites here, though, than in Japan. Our cool breeze continues this afternoon. Praise the Lord! We find there is about six and a half hours difference in your time and ours, but so far we don't know whether you are ahead of us or behind. I think like this: it is three here, April tenth. It must be nine-thirty in the evening, April tenth, for you. Sunday service is just about over. We'll have to look it up, as I always picture what you're all doing at home while I'm doing such strange things here. One sister in seattle made us four girls each lovely housecoats out of bright, flowered material, and we certainly have had need of them! Here we must wear something like that half of the time between bath, toilet, bedroom, etc. We are so thankful to have them. We left all our heavy woolen coats, etc., in Japan, for the Coots, as we have no need of them here. If we go home someday, we'l trust God to supply our needs. We wear sandals, and no socks, in the house. On the street, we must be dressed up. Otherwise we loose face. The Dutch government simply commands respect. (Ha,ha!) We covet their good will, and obey their wishes as much as possible. Street hawkers here cry all day long. One thing they shout always sounds about like, "hup! hup!" Almost like, "help! help!" but not quite. I wonder if he sells jewellery or fish. You never can tell till the lid's off! Shoe stores display every pair they have in glass-enclosed shelves, like glass book-cases. All you have to do is point out what you want. Ralph's sandals had to be made to order. They cost about a dollar. Our bed has yards of hand-made lace on it. A great canopy of what we would call "scrim," instead of mosquito netting, encloses us entirely. However, we like the breeze, and loop it up. The ceilings are very high, walls very thick, in houses here. I will put a seed or two in my letters now and then, and you can plant them. Tell dad the children all talk about him, and wish Grandpa could see all the sights too. I don't know why they always think of him. Probably because of his irish ways. Much love to you each and all, and greet the saints in Jesus dear name! edna. End letter. Next letter: April 17, 1938. Dear ones at home, We landed here in the most beautiful spot in the whole world, it seems. The Lord was wonderfully with us on the last boat, and we are staying with the native pastor and his family, who took us in with a fine welcome, the church all decorated for our arrival. We've had the grandest meetings, and are rejoicing in Him. Yesterday afternoon, a native Papuan, from the Digul river district, the very farthest out-station of the hundred they want us to take over, came here to the house, and gave his heart to the Lord. He was in the meeting last night, and we so hope he turns out to be a real worker. He said he stood in the doorway of the church the first night we spoke, and he wanted to know about the Lord. We think this is a most miraculous working of the Holy Spirit. The Lord knows, we'd love to be there in the real field, But we are not ready, so he sends a man to us. Praise His name for ever! There is a great big work here, and Floyd starts revival services tomorrow, April 18, 1938. Now this is just like heaven for looks. Some other things are not a bit heavenly. But god is gracious, and we are all just real well, and are going to rent a house to live in, several blocks out. It is not ready for us yet, and they take all the time in the world here to do things. We must have city water piped in, etc. It takes weeks instead of days. We're very comfortable with these people, who just about turned their house over to us. Now our own house will be like a big villa, all tile floors, a thatched roof, well and bath-house out in the rear, about a dozen banana trees (one has a bunch on it), three coconut trees, a papaya tree or bush. I will try to send you some seeds from this fruit in your christmas package. I think they will get in okay that way. We are en-route to a wealthy Chinese home, our first invitation out in amboina. We went out about seven miles to preach the other night, and it was such a lovely meeting. Also, everywhere you look in this country, it is so beautiful in this country that we just drink it in. about the heat, we are all able to stand it, being about like some of your days in Monrovia, when you sweat good and plenty. Of course, it doesn't cool off here like at your place. Yet it is cool at night to what we thought it might be. We will not suffer much from the heat when we get settled, and have things the way we want them. The natives shut themselves up tighter than a tin box at night, and put tons of mosquito netting around them, and never open a window or door. We open up everything, and it is cool enough then so we need a light cover, doubled sheet or cotten blanket. we can buy almost anything in the cloth and clothing line here. Things are much higher than Makassar, and every single thing is imported, so if they only have one in town, that's all they is, and they ain't no more! We need seven of some things, and that's bad. But we know the Lord will help us. Matresses are so high we can't afford them, so we're going to put matting mats on top of our springs, fold a blanket, and put our sheets on, and that will not be as hard as the native beds, which are just boards with a matress on top. This sounds hard, But is not a bad bed at all for this climate. We feel like this is so much more civilized than we thought. The Dutch do things up very nicely. The natives not so. The climate here is considered the best in the Indies. Good water. Cool. Lots of fish, bananas, coconuts, etc. Morris says to tell you that the beach is so pretty. We all went swimming there, and I learned to swim a little. We came across in a little sampan, and there was another sampan there. We played at tipping it over and having fun in it. I am trying to find pictures to enclose in this letter. The boat goes early in the morning. And now we must go. I will try to write every week, even if the boats do not go, so will number this letter number one from Amboina. We do so long to hear from home, and have had an airmail from the boys at the store, But no other mail or news. We would appreciate newspaper clippings of anything very startling. Our postage is very high. About seven cents american money. That is not so good, as we write a lot of letters in a month. We will try to get out a form letter in a week or two. Must go. Loads of love to you all, and when your letters start coming, it won't seem quite so lonesome. We do not have much time to be lonely, however. Greet the saints. Love from Edna. End letter. Next letter: april 27, 1938. Dear Grandma and all, Well, we have an address, at last! How happy we are to be moved into a house of our own! We took the third one bwe bargained for, and it is proving just what we needed. Things are very high in Amboina to what they were in Makassar, and we've had to just wait on the Lord, and trust Him to help us. We gave them fifteen guilders, or about eight dollars, though, and I don't think it cost them any more than that, except the bother of having us all there, which they didn't seem to mind. They surely have built a fine work here in Ambon. They have little church assemblies all around on the island, and we go to them in a little tiny car, about like a motor-cycle with a box on the back, and benches along each side. It is fun, and the country is so beautiful it doesn't seem real. You will want to know about our house. Well, the living room is big. More square than yours, and not quite so large, maybe, but we live mostly out on the front porch, or verandah, which goes clear across the front of the house. There is a red, brick-like tile throughout the whole front of the house. In fact, through the whole place. Three bedrooms. The girls have one, ralph and I the other, floyd one, and then there's an immense room of a kind of a verandah porch out back, and we have a table about twelve feet long out there to eat on. Brother Siloi gave it to us. It has been beautiful at one time, but the termites have eaten up quite a bit of it. We need robert here with his squirt gun to kill them. Well, Geezer and Rod sleep in the other end of this porch from where we eat. The whole place is wide open, you know, kind of like a Spanish hacienda. Just can't seem to type today! But Dad and Floyd are making cupboards, putting up shelves, etc., and we're really beginning to get straightened out pretty well. We have three babus, or servants, kind of loaned out to us from the pastor, Siloi, who had eight at his place. We feed them their rice and dried fish, and give them about six or seven dollars a month to divide between them. This is as near as we can figure it out. The boy's name is La-Di, which sounds funny to us. He is a mohammedan, but honest. The two women are christians, who go to our church. One is Lucinda, the other Wilhelmina. I call them Willy and Lou. To tell the truth, we can't call them much of anything as yet! However we learn some more Malay every day, and are surely glad we know as much of it as we do. We can ask for things, greet people, say good-bye, etc. Our yard has twelve banana trees in it, three coconut palms, and a papaya, and two other trees of native fruits they say are delicious. We have to wait till they're ripe to find out. We put up screens on the bedroom windows, and surprised the natives, who have never seen anybody do such a crazy thing as that! Well, there are no mosquitos or flies, gnats, etc., here, compared to anywhere at all we've ever lived in California. I cannot understand this, unless there might be more some other time of year, or maybe their bites are more malarial, or something. We'd never think of having screens in a house if there were no more insects than this, but perhaps we'll learn more later. Of course New Guinea is different. We have city water to drink, and everyone here uses it without boiling. However floyd thinks we should boil ours. We can buy almost anything at all, and find out that sugar is cheaper than in the United States. Flour is much higher. No butter that we like, so we use Oleo, which is about the price of Crisco at home. I guess it's cheaper, come to think of it. Bananas are five cents for about two dozen. Fish is very cheap, and so is chicken. We have fried chicken all the time. Some kinds of green vegetables are cheap, and yesterday we had a regular United States salad--cucombers, tomatoes, onions, and bunch lettuce. They make wonderful french dressing, and grate up the boiled eggs in it some way. It tastes just like home. We do not feel that this is real missionary work here, though God has moved wonderfully since we came to Amboina. Floyd held revival meetings a week straight through for Brother Siloi, and about five or six were saved, and twelve received the baptism. The wealthy Chinese have been most kind to invite us to their homes. They make wonderful Christians when sold out to God. We could have electricity, but are not having it turned on, as it is very weak, and expensive too. This town is much more civilized than we supposed. God will probably allow us to have this for our base, then work into New Guinea from here. All our goods came through in fine shape. Nothing broken but a little ten cent pitcher. My pottery is just beautiful, and there is none here like it. Even my big pitcher and chop plate came through okay. Our little oil stove is good. The bicycles are not only handy, but absolutely necessary here, and the only means of transportation. The Dutch people all have one apiece. The whole family goes riding an hour or two as the sun goes down. Shirley and I were invited out at ten in the morning--everyone sleeps in the afternoon--to visit a Dutch girl who is married to a Chinese man. We went on the bicycles. She speaks very good English, and is not saved, so we invited her to come to church with her husband, who is saved, and she said she would. We will pray for her. I do not remember whether I wrote you about the native Papuan who came to brother Siloi's and gave his heart to the Lord. Anyhow, the Lord gave us one the first week here, and we do feel so encouraged in the Lord, and I know when we're able to preach in the language, we can evangelize to a great good right here in Ambon. The Salvation Army man and his wife and daughter who are here have spent twenty-eight years in the Indies, and are wonderful christian people. We will go to their meetings too. The Protestant church, which is Dutch State, is very worldly, lukewarm, etc., but a Bickmy Moodyite is coming this way to revive it. He is death on Pentecost, I hear, but we are trusting in God. Many flowers here are the same you have. Bougainville is everywhere. The one Chinese home where they entertained us reminded us of a hollywood garden. About half an acre in lawn, open in the center, with shade trees at the edges, the big house opening on every side onto the lawn. All our laundry, dishes, etc., are washed in cold water. I don't see how they ever get them clean. Our bath-house has a big cement bin that holds about as much as your bath-tub if filled to the brim. That is kept full all the time by the servants. Then there is a bucket or can in the place. You undress, and stand by the side of the water trough, and dip the water out, and pour it over you. The floor is tile, and the water runs out a little drain spout. If we just had a hose, we could hose out our whole house, and not have to sweep. I don't think we'll ever work again! the babus do everything, and you just sit and sit, and wait for the meetings. However we'll be studying Malay, visiting the sick, helping in all the meetings, etc., and it's a good thing we have some time for the Lord. The other night, when part of us were still at Siloi's, Rod and Bee and Morris were all here alone in the new house, so they had a prayer meeting, and Rod and Thalia both had an infilling in the Holy Spirit, and they were all happy in the Lord when we saw them the next morning. The weather is about like summer in your country, only a bit more humid. Something like Bakersfield, only not so hot. The evenings are cool, and we have to have a thin cover at night. Our clothes are not only the right kind for this country, but we have just barely enough of them, because they have to be washed so much. Now I will try to get the additions for our mailing list written down for Florence, and I think perhaps we can mail just as cheap right from here. If we can, we will do so, as people always like the foreign stamps, and to feel like the news is right from the firing line. May the Lord bless and keep you each and all, and keep on praying for us. Lots of love to you all, Edna. end letter. Comment about April, 1938: When I (Joe Devin) was with her in late 1979, Edna added this post-script to the above letter: "When we had been in our new home for the first few days everything went fine, but our first message from the united states told of the death of my step-father. This came as a telegram, and simply said, "Papa died May 3rd." And of course it will take weeks for us to receive a letter telling of how he went home. But as I prayed, the Lord gave me a wonderful reassurance in him by giving me the scripture verse, 'The Lord knoweth them that are His.' And the first letter I wrote home was May 19th, 1938." End comment. Next letter: May 19, 1938. Dear ones at home, We are sad indeed as we have to write the first letter since Dad went home, and by the time this ever reaches you it will be weeks later, and you will be over the first keen pangs of parting. I was not feeling so good, and was lying down when the wire came, about eleven Sunday morning, ma fifteenth. The children all yelled, "Telegram! Telegram!" and Ralph took it. I heard the children say, "Don't tell Mama, she's sick!" And while it was sweet of them to think of me, yet I had already overheard the sad news, and we all wept together, as we all loved Grandpa so much. He will always be missed, but we are thankful his earthly trials and sufferings are over, and we are assured he is in our heavenly home, where he is safe at last with Jesus! I felt such peace in my soul as the Lord woke me up saying, "The Lord knoweth them that are His." (2 Timothy 2:19). When you wrote last winter about Grandpa's sickness, and his desire to serve God, the children were all so happy, and kept telling people, "Grandpa got saved!" Ralph and I were sure the Lord was first in his heart, though the outward man did not seem to change so much. We are assured of his salvation, and know he is in Glory with our other loved ones. "The Lord knoweth them that are His." We suppose he died Friday or Saturday, March 14th or 15th, and was buried Monday afternoon. We prayed much for all of you, and dear little Ebby and Cherry-Lee, and the Lake County ones. I had just written Ginger, but will write again. I will not be surprised if she took Mother home with her. So many things we wonder about, but we just trust the Lord, and we'll be patient until we hear. Shirley has had a bad cold, but is much better today. The others are in school after three days vacation. We are studying Malay. I am much better in my own body than I have been in the United States, and really feel good here. Thalia is plump. She's almost as big as Shirley. Teedle and Roderick learn the Dutch so fast, and can read some already. Mother, it is hard to think of you so far away, and all alone, and how we would have loved having you live with us for awhile if we were in the United States. I have almost wished Shirley was with you. Yet we feel we have obeyed God in being here at this time. It is very cool here for the tropics now, but rains all the time, and they say July and August will be even cooler. We often put the wool blankets over us at night. December and January are the hot months. Ralph grasps the Malay very readily, and follows our babus around all day trying it out on them. Florence, it was so sweet of you to send us the wire, and it must have cost a lot. I am sorry for you girls to have all the cares and burdens, and us not be there to share them, but I know there is a blessing in it we will miss, also. I thought, "of any two words in all the dictionary, you chose the two best to express everything." We so hope Mother bears up, and that you all get a good rest after sorrow and sadness. I could not think of home with Dad gone. I can't hardly yet. And of all of us, he will be missed the very most. But how nice to just remember how he always gave and gave to all of us the very best he knew how, and was always so loved by everybody. The children all feel very bad to think they will not see him again on this earth. To us older ones, Heaven seems closer, and we know we will soon be over there too. Right now, don't read this aloud, if that place on Mama's chest is not well, or if it fills up again, please don't neglect it, but have a good docter take care of it, as the sack should be removed. Then it can't fill that way again. I have meant to write this for a long time, but forget. Poor Ginger will feel so bad. I am sorry for them. The day of May 15th, Saturday, I had such a burden to pray, and it seemed to be for Ginger and elbert and the children, and John W. We would love some snapshots of Mother and Dad, and also the rest of you, as we can keep them here in Ambon okay. But our albums are all stored in Seattle, as we supposed we could not keep them here. We supposed vint had just gone to lakeport, then came right back again, ha? Another Papuan came to our meetings, but has not been converted yet. We expect to go to another island nearby, and preach for two or three days, either this week or next. Mrs. Siloi will oversee things while we are away. I just met a Dutch couple, the little boy two years, who have lived in New Guinea. Certain parts are fairly habitable, I guess. We will need Brother Lennon to help us fight Rome in New Guinea, as they got there first, but we seem to be here just as the government is opening it up, and we are sure it is God's time. We will probably go up the Digul river in New Guinea. Florence, you and Bob ought to be able, I mean smart enough, to find a radio ham short wave amateur who would contact Ambon, and get a message through to us every now and then. If we had only brought our radio! Now that the Chinese pay for our electricity, we could get the United States every now and then, also Australia. Please clip us some news items, such as war, election news, etc., of the United States and world importance, say once a month or so, or else give this commission to some saint who would like to do it, as we have had no world news since we arrived. Ralph's three lovely new suits, light cream color, all cost less than fifteen dollars--about four-fifty apiece. It does not seem possible. In seattle they wanted twenty-five dollars just for the tailoring. Well, the pets keep arriving. Floyd is making a dove cote for our two pretty white pigeons, and our black duck lays eggs. So does our hen. And Jacob struts around as manager. Last evening a little half Dutch and half Hungarian girl named lilly brought her white cockatoo over, and he is also Jacob, and calls his own name, but does not speak English. Ralph has an English Sunday-school class in Elim Tabernacle, brother siloi's church, and he invited a man who came. The lesson went into the subject of Mohammedanism, and then Ralph learned the man was a mohammedan, and yet he took no offence, and said he'd come back again. A friend who's coming to visit this morning is a full-blooded Dutch woman married to a pure Chinese man. Their children are lovely, well-mannered, well-educated, butlook Chinese altogether. they are christians. The mother and eldest daughter speak English. Now they are not low enough to associate with real Ambonese, nor high enough to mix with the Dutch, but with us Americans it is different. All the mixtures mix with us. Also the Dutch. Whether they would socially or not, I don't know or care, but we think how wonderful it is that from the least to the greatest we can befriend them all. The only dentist in Ambon is a Dutch woman of high degree. Very refined. Ralph had a filling, and left a paper by mistake, which she returned personally, and visited us awhile. We are kept very busy, but our letter-writing is caught up somewhat now. Florence, we think we can mail our bulletins here just as cheap as to send to you, so we'll probably put out some soon. May the God of all comfort pour out his love and blessing upon you. And do write often, as we just long to hear, even a few words, from home. Love from us each and all, Edna. End letter. Next letter: May 24, 1938. Dear Mother and all, You must be very lonely with dear old Dad gone. Even we are lonesome for him, though we're so far away. We are all well, though Shirley's cold was a bad one, and I worried over her. But the Lord has touched her body, and she is much better. The little dutchers are getting put up into their proper classes in school. We have had lovely cool weather, and sleep so good at night that we get rested up. Last night Floyd and Ralph went to amahusu to hold a meeting, and the Devil was pretty mad, and they threatened them, and threw rocks at them, and one man wanted to fight Floyd. But the Lord wonderfully protected them. They came home rejoicing in Him, knowing He must be doing great things, or the enemy would not be so stirred. When we had the wake at our house last Friday, I sang in the Malay, "What a friend we have in Jesus," as I had done previously in the country at a meeting. The power fell as I sang, and many of the unsaved stood weeping. We counted over sixty-five unsaved in our yard, and there were about two hundred more in the street who heard the word preached forth. They are much moved, and we know God will save many of these Mohammedans. The one who came to Ralph's class at Sunday school was back again, so hungry to know the truth. Floyd lent him a bible. We hope he gets saved. Sunday we ate with the Chinese women, who dressed us up for the enclosed photo. they seem to love us, and are so jolly, and remind us the most of Americans of any of the mixtures around here. There are no white people in the three hundred at Pinkster Kirk. The Dutch seem to think Pentecost is only for the natives. But we are praying that God will move on some of them, and save them. So far, God has given us to mix with all classes, kinds, colors, etc. We had three or four different classes all sitting together in our front room yesterday, and they seemed to get along okay. We had one guest who is a deformed little fellow, something like carl brandenburg used to be, only smaller. His head is normal, and he knows several languages, including English, which he enjoyed speaking to us very much. Floyd's little school-teacher brought him to visit us. He told us a lot about new guinea. He says the natives powder up the ocean shells into a fine talk, and if they come out and throw that on you, that means they are hostile to you, and will not be friends. If they see you have anything they want, like a knife, gun, or such like, they will maneuver around for weeks, and entertain you, etc., until they can get the chance to steal it from you. However we know God wants to save them, so we're praying we get our permits, and can go. I am feeling fine, and getting fat on this native grub. Thalia just eats it like a little pig, and fattens right up on it. The boys, too, have the most meat on them they've ever had. But they run a lot of it off. They are just as busy here as they were in america. We decorated our front room somewhat with pictures from Sunday-school rolls, and some more of American scenes, and the people here enjoy them a lot. Also, Brother Floyd lent us two pretty pieces of batik to put up as wall hangings, and they help. Floyd reminds me so much of orland, and I guess all old batches have about the same nature the world over. We can hardly wait till Friday of this week, when more letters should come from home. We only get American mail once in two weeks. It is a long time to wait, and we have no news at all, except the boys learned last night about the trouble between Poland and Germany. I wrote to Ginger too, but can't seem to think of much news to write today. Our Malay studying is not so easy for me as for Ralph. His Devin brain grasps it, and he goes right ahead talking it to his little babu, and has learned it the fastest of all except Rod. Rod can speel off whole sentences already, but I have to puzzle out what they mean. We only catch a part of what they preach, and our first weeks have been mostly just sitting patiently, not knowing a thing that goes on around us. Shirley is waiting to go to the post office with this letter, so I will close. We hope you are all well, and we long to comfort you at this trying time, but we will have to leave you all with Jesus. Loads of love, edna. End letter. Next letter: May 29, 1938. Dear Mother and Florence, We got a letter from each of you on this last boat. That is, Florence's report, and the copy of letter to Regina. It was addressed by Dad, and it seemed hard to realize he is already in Glory. We still feel very bad to think we did not see him anymore, but it seemed to be God's will. The money order did not come yet, but they are always later than a letter, as it takes the time to New York and back to the coast again. We do not need it urgently as yet, but from the reports from Seattle, we will probably not have any income from that source to speak of, as Dave Hunting got Mike Downs to agree that if there is no profit to the biz we get nothing. But if they make a profit, we get our share. Of course in a way this is okay, and we know it is of the Lord if we have to rely solely upon Him. I am sure He wants us to. Now Mr. Hamel, of the Protestant Dutch church called on us. He has charge of all the New Guinea territory, and wants us to hurry on into the field so the Roman Catholics will not get in. It was considered almost beyond belief that a man of his standing would call upon us, so we praised God, and thanked him for moving upon this man's heart. He is inviting missionary alliance in the same way, as they have no finances to send workers of their own in. They consider it takes five thousand dollars a year for the territory they would like us to take over. There is no food to speak of in New Guinea, and everything is very high. We are just waiting on the Lord to show us what to do. Mr. Hamel is a Moody graduate of 1919, I believe, and also a graduate of Drew Seminary, which is Presbyterian, and one other big Presbyterian school in the East somewhere. He has been in the Indies ever since, but still speaks English very fluently. However he said his years in the united states gave him a little different slant on things from the ordinary domini of his denomination. He says a friend of his is coming six months from now to hold revival meetings with him, and he wants to see a real revival in Ambon. Well, we wanted to also, and I'm afraid he's going to be about six months behind the times, the way God keeps moving. Praise the Lord! Thursday was Ascension Day, and even Pinkster Kirk celebrated by having two water baptismal services. They make a lot of all church holidays here. In the morning, Ralph and I and brother Siloi went up toward Suli, to the farm where God moved so mightily that other day, and they baptised in the river. Ralph's first time for officiating. I tried to get pictures, but it was too dark. It was a wonderful service, and the power of God was manifest in a remarkable way. One precious man was so happy after a long life of sadness and sorrow. The annointing remained on him, and he could not help speaking in tongues. We understood he got his baptism as he came up out of the water, but he may have had it. Our interpreter, Browney, was not there, so we cannot be sure. However we do know that the Lord wonderfully blessed. On the same evening, in the church, which was simply packed full, Ralph and Brother Siloi baptised several more. And think of our joy when the little Papuan, who had been saved the first week we were here, came to be baptised. We were so happy we could hardly believe it possible. The power of God fell until we could not take communion for about an hour, everyone was praising so loud. As we took communion, brother Floyd went under the power, and rolled on the floor, and then gave a long message in tongues which brother Siloi interpreted. This was the first time Floyd had ever had a message. Oh, what a time we had, the shakaina glory dwelling in our midst! Then Friday night, the wake on our front porch was beyond any we've had so far. There were about two hundred in our yard of the unsaved who listened to the word. Many were Mohammedans. And the street was so full, traffic could not pass. People are so hungry that a whole multitude gathers and presses, just like they used to when the Lord was on earth. They listen so eagerly, and keep coming back again. We do pray God to save many of them! This afternoon Ralph and Floyd and Shirley have gone to a funeral. I was supposed to go, but was sound asleep, as we're supposed also to take siesta here, just like they do in Mexico, from two to four. I will not know what kind of funerals they have until the boys get back. It is almost miraculous how Ralph learns the Malay. He can already, in less than six weeks, carry on a conversation enough to get by. Roderick too can talk a lot of it. But the rest of us seem to be a little dumber, or else we don't get to study as hard. Shirley had a bad cold, but is much better, and seems like herself again. I was worried over her cough. Ralph's head bothered him for a long time after his fall, but is perfectly well again. We are all fine, and the rainy season continues and is cool. They say it will last through september, but that it will be unbearably hot after that. Mr. Hamel will help us get to New Guinea any time on a government boat very reasonably. They go clear up the Digul river to Tanah-Merah, which is not shown on most maps, as it is a new Dutch project. Rome is already in this field, so pray for us. The Adventists plan on going in also. We are surely in the Lord's time, as the governor is just opening up New Guinea, and we are putting in better fortifications, anda big air base here at Ambon. We will have airmail service after January, 1939. Ralph's learning the Malay is just like the Devins for brain power, ha? He just studies it, and then knows it. And as long as he knows it, he just tries it out on anybody at all, and sees how it works. So far, he's not made any very bad mistakes. Floyd is not much good as a teacher, now that we have the hang of it. It just takes study, and plenty of it. We understand the gist of preaching, a conversation, etc. Now that helps a lot. Florence and Thalia talk the Dutch, but I do not know how good. The Chinese just love Thalia, and beg for her to stay all night every week. She likes them too, as they are so jolly. And so, away she went last night, and stayed with them again. They had us all for dinner again today. It was very good, and I enjoyed it. They keep us supplied with food until we don't hardly have to buy any except some plain staples. It is wonderful how the Lord has supplied us that way. Today I passed by a big bunch of Mohammedans working on a cart, and one said, in perfect English, "I hear they speak English." I smiled, and said, "Surely." It pleased them almost to pieces, and their white teeth glistened. As far as I could see they were smiling and laughing. We keep learning a little more all the time about this island. There are sixty thousand inhabitants. Two hundred whites. Fifteen thousand people in Amboina, and the rest in little native villages over the island. Yesterday we walked up to the spring on the mountainside three miles to where the city water supply comes from. It is all cemented over, and surely must be as pure as water can be, but they seem to chlorinate it besides, and everyone says its perfectly safe to drink. Well, there's a big cement pool where the overflow drains. Clear sparkling water. And by getting the key, the white people may swim in there. So Ralph and I had a good swim. Floyd and the children had already been up there. You just don't have any idea how beautiful this walk up the mountain is! the river flows about a hundred feet below all the way. Just a gushing mountain torrent over rocks and boulders, like any mountain stream at home. Then palms, bananas, and dozens of other kinds of trees grow up the mountain sides. Everything so green, so green. Then ferns everywhere, and trailing vines that hang from the trees. Also orchids blooming in the little niches on the palm trees, where the old leaves have been broken off. It was just too beautiful for words! you can look down all over Ambon bay, and off to the mountains on the other side of the bay, which are much higher than where we were. But after we'd gone that far, we could still see native houses farther on up the mountainside. People can grow enough food to exist almost anywhere here, though the soil is about like monrovia, just volcanic gravel of about as much quality. I don't know what they fertilize it with. This trail we went up is a government trail, and is very fine. We rode our bikes most all the way down, but had to walk up. Ralph didn't, but he rides better than I. Our front room is all fixed up now. Brother Floyd lent us two sarongs which he had put away, and we hung them on the walls for wall hangings, and then we took some of his picture rolls, and cut out suitable pictures, and put up. He had one real ugly Catholic picture of Christ which the saints gave him for a love present at Terakan, so we took the picture out, and put one in the frame of Christ stilling the waves, and the disciples in the boat. Everyone looks at it who comes in, it is so pretty. The others are jungle scenes, and might have been taken almost anywhere at all in Amboina. People wonder how we had such pictures in America. So do I. Another large one is of Christ and the woman at the well. Then we have some smaller pictures which are real American. Our place is cozy and comfortable enough, though to get a real rest we have to go to bed, as we cannot afford rattan furniture like we would like. They have a kind of reclining chairs and a table to match; but a set like this would cost about thirty to forty dollars, and we may go to New Guinea before we need it. Monday afternoon: I have to finish this up, as the boat leaves in the morning. It comes from New Guinea en-route to Java, and if they do not have any heavy loading or unloading, sometimes it does not stay in port long. Our meeting last night in the church did not seem so good, but the after-service seemed most profitable, as a man who just came into Pentecost almost got his baptism, and two Dutchmen, who have come in several times before to kind of look on and make fun, came in and sat down. The Lord spoke to them, and they were very polite to me as they left. We feel like God is going to save one or both of them. Rod went to a native funeral with Shirley, Dad, Floyd, and Brother Siloi yesterday afternoon, but I was asleep, so they let me take my rest, and I missed out on it. I wish you could have read the letter Rod wrote one of his boy pals at home describing the funeral! that wasn't enough. He drew a picture of it! well, rod draws so wonderfully that I wish there was an artist here who could help him with it. He just seems to come by it naturally. All lines, figures, landscapes, still-life, etc. I hope he can develop it sometime. He testified in the meeting saturday night, and when he's spiritual, he surely does make a good showing for the Lord. But most of the time he's too busy. I wonder how you will be managing, Mother? I suppose Florence and Robert will stay with you as long as possible, or else that you went home with Ginger for awhile. I realize how lost you will be for some time to come, and I should think you'd like to take a nice Pentecostal family in with you, and you just keep a room or two, and let them board you, or some kind of an arrangement like that. Maybe you will stay with Florence in L.A. The only two places that ever seem like home since we sailed are Grandma's house and Seahurst Park house. We suppose the old house at Seahurst will be just about right for poor old missionaries, if the Lord tarries, and we ever come back. I know Dad had been a great care to you, too, these last few years, and you must have a good rest when you get over missing him so much. We just can't realize yet that Dad is gone. But I always feel so good about him since the Lord gave me that scripture, and I know he and Uncle Mit and Grandma Prat and all the others must be having a wonderful time enjoying salvation together until we come. We got such a dear letter from friends this time. And so many! it seems it keeps us busy between boats just answering letters. Emma Washburn keeps on writing to me from Calestoga. I told her to let me know if Carols still ran the Calestoga Inn, and would want to publish missionary news from Amboina or New Guinea. The secretary for the Pentecostal mission in Calestoga is Florence Clark, who is a relative of Reir Clark. Do you know who that is? She writes me also. It is lovely and cool the last few days, and we surely are thankful when we do not have to sweat. Of course, if we did anything very strenuous, we'd sweat a lot right now; but just studying, typing, etc., we don't. The children have gone to swim again this afternoon, three miles up the mountain. I just fried two lovely chickens, which cost about twenty cents American apiece. We do like fried chicken, and it's so cheap. Two make us a good meal, and we always have two vegetables, bread, and gravey with it. There is such a sweet fruit that tastes just like ice cream. The name is suersack. It is a great big green thing with prickles all over the outside. Otherwise about like an avocado, only easily four times as big. You peel off the outside skin, which is thick, and the inside looks about like a raw turnip, but is soft and squashy. There is a pithy center about the size of a banana in the middle, which you throw out. Then you squash this white part all up and get a lot of black seeds out. It reminds us the most of cotten with seeds in it for looks, of anything else. You put a little sugar and ice with it, and eat it with a spoon, like ice cream. Our babu, Wilhelmina, puts chocolate and canned milk with it too, and sometimes it is extra delicious. There is another fruit about twice the size of avocados, and looks just like an avocado. You peel it, and the inside is like a peach, only it has a little different flavour. Everything is so spicy, since we live in the Spice Islands. Nutmegs grow wild, though they are getting scarcer all the time on account of their commercial value. Durian is the thing you have to hold your nose to eat, and to me it tastes just like raw onions and bananas mixed, and I don't like it a little bit; but Floyd is used to them now, and loves them. They stink like manure, and you can't have one near you in the house without smelling it all over. They grow what they call "jerut Bali," and anything "jerut," pronounced "geroot," is citrus. "Jerut asin" is lemon. "Jerut Java" is orange. Well, jerut Bali is about the size of your head, and the peeling is so thick I can't hardly manage it; but the inside is just like a grapefruit, only pink, and much sweeter than grapefruit. They say that America won't let them import them, as it would kill the grapefruit industry. They grow lots of them here. But lemons here are very small and acid. Not good at all. And we haven't seen an orange since we came. They are imported from Java, and very high. We can buy some kinds of squash here, and some of it is very tastey. The Chinese eat much hot pepper, just like the Mexicans do. They fix up their rice with it. Some of their dishes are very delicious, however. The ones we know best are fine cooks, and the women bake bread and cookies to sell. It seems no matter how wealthy a Chinese is, they're always earning money. They seem to be very rich, yet they bake for the Dutch people, earning money. Well, I must get my snooze this afternoon, as I have to go to a vandussy with the Chinese women at five. That is an auction. I hope they buy me a nice rattan set for my front room! We have not been to an auction yet, and that is why we are going, as well as to please our friends. They are coming wednesday, at nine, to put me up some curtains. All I hope is that they do not shut off the breeze and air, as we could not stand it like they do. Ralph says he wants to read this before I shut it up. I guess I sent you pictures of us in native costume with the Chinese ladies. I can't remember now. Much love to you each and all, Edna. P.S. We got your letters you sent to Japan. They came on to Ambon. End letter. An excerpt from the letter of june 20, 1938: I cannot remember whether Ralph had been to see the Resident when I last wrote or not, but God has given us such favour with the government officials here that we have permission to go anywhere at all in the Moluccas. This group of islands has a thousand islands in it, New Guinea included, and many of them are very large, and thousands upon thousands of souls await the gospel. The Protestant church has touched the shoreline, but interiors have never been penetrated, and thousands have never heard. We pray much for God to guide us. Let us move in His will. But there is so much to be done! We could send out fifty workers this morning if we had them and the finance. It does not take much except consecration. The native workers can live on five to eight dollars a month. But we find no sense whatever among the Pentecostal people here of consecration or evangelization. Perhaps God will have to send us help from America and England and Australia. Well, we know He is able. We are laying before the Lord at present should we organize here in the Moluccas and have a separate work from that in Java? Should we send out native workers or white? Should we try to have a bible school in Amboina? The need is so great! the labourers so few! you ask prayer that we shall move in God's will, please. Love from edna. End excerpt. From: "Beth Marsau" To: "'Shirley Tinsman'" , Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 13:58:10 -0700 Subject: Letter from Edna Devin to Eunice, Bertha and All At the time this letter was written, Bertha was pregnant with Chuck and Roderick had just left home at age 24. "Joe-Joe" was four. (letterhead): Assemblies of God in the East Indies R. M. Devin, Chairman R.A. Busby, Vice Chairman E.M. Devin, Secy.Treas. Temporary Headquarters AMBON NETHERLANDS EAST INDIES June 28, 1948 My Dear Eunice, Bertha and All:- We were very glad of your long newsy letter. Were we ever surpised to hear we are going to be "Great-unclized and Great-auntized" again. More power to the young folk who ar raising the family. How I wish we could see them before thy are grown up. Possibly we'll be having a furlough again in a couple of years or so. I suppose we'll be hearing whether the new baby is another boy, just anytime now. It would be a surprise to get a girl, wouldn't it? But one of our friends ni Porland has just such a family and they are really a grand bunch of youngsters. Her first three are close together, though, and and the little girl usually is around the house with Pauline most of the time while the boys are off on their work or fun. How fine your operations were successful, Eunice. I am so glad you feel better. So do I. I stayed on Ternate over two months with Thalia and enjoyed the change so very much. It did me worlds of good after my malaria. The worst thing was coming home again. This vast house has only Joe-Joe and me in it at present. Rod left for U.S.A. again, but so far has only gotten as far as Java, where I guess he was robbed or lost all his money and his passport to boot. We have not had anythig but a wire to stop payment on two checks which Dad had given him for $25 each. This we did. Ray Busby, the other missionary in Batavia, wrote us Rod came in for an hour or so and said he had lost everything. His cable was from an inland town. I wish he'd at least write us a letter. I felt too dreadful for words when he left us, didn't seem to know why I took it so much harder his leaving than Morris or Florence. I just supposed it was because of his temperment being different from the other children and his noise and the racket left such a silence it was deadly. Dad took his leaving hard, too, but he ran away and left me here all by myself, with just Chaumont. Dad had to go to Meando and the U.S. War graves ship was leaving and would take him free so away he went only about four days after Rod left. Well, I just couldn't hardly get adjusted or "come to" or "come out of it" or whatever until a few days ago I began to get a grip on things again; then this news of Rod's misfortune came. His ship left the 17th for Holland. Poor boy. I told him before he left that if I wer he I would try Grandma's old idea of putting all my real valuables in a little sack and pining it right next to my hide with safety pins. He just poohed the idea. But I knew how bad the robbers are in Java and also in Europe and he is so careless abouthis things. Rod has fine qualities, but his ungovernable temper just flares at this and that and ruins his life, which at present is not yielded to the Lord. When he gives up everything to the Lord he is like a different person. I suppose we'll be hearing he's back in the Navy again. He was not satisfied here, though he did such hard work and did it super, too. Whatever he does he goes at it like dynamite and stays right with it until it's finished. Well, enough of the"black shee" of the Ralph Devin family. It has rained and poured until I actually prayed for some sunshine and got it immediately. Today was lovely and I spent several hours in the garden spading and just being outside. I hav three parrorts, a dog and a cat for company besides Chaumont, but even then I am lonely. But tomorrow Shirl and John are coming to stay over night. I put of baking my four loaves until tomorrow and Joe-Joe and I ate hot cakes today. I will make a few cinnamon rolls with my last Christmas raisins and walnuts for John. Some people in Oregon canned shell nut-meats and sent, also raisins and prunes. Oh, but they've been a treat. Now we'll have to wait until next Christmas again, I'm afraid. We ordered our Christmas candy (for S. School 400 to 500 bags this year) from Imperial Seattle, already. Last year we did not order until Aug. and it barely got here, so though we'd do better this year. We have not heard from Robert and Shirley for ages, and we owe Shirley a letter but have never had their address. We often pray for them and the fine work they are doing and please do tell them to send us a 10 cent air letter so we can get track of them again. We'd love to get their bulletin, too. They could send it regular mail and it would seem nice and newsy to us anyhow. Well, I can't write more than this page or it won't go airmail for my 80 cents so I'd better tell you what a nice little Grandson I have. He's fat as butter and eats a whole tin of Gerbers at a sitting, fresh banana and papaya (without wich he just won't do nothing at all) and lots of mama's nice soe-soe. Shirl seems to be just like I always was about nursing him plenty of good dinners. He is smal for 5 months, but healthy as can be. Nothing special or unusual about him, though I'd never dare tell those proud young parents that. He sits in his high chair and jumper and of course we all pet him about to pieces. He's a very good baby anyhow. They talk about another before they go back to U.S.A. on furlough, so watch out Bertha, or they'll catch up to you. Our work goes ahead despite many discouragements. Government rules are strict in many places, now, to what they used to be. We have Catholics for officials in many places, Mohammedans in others. Our young people are just being organized and so have a fine group. I was far from idle while with Thalia and the Parsons and Loving families. But gained 25 lbs. on the good food they have there. I do not have my old trouble any more and really feel fine now. Malaria lays you out and the recovery is not too speedy unless you can take it easy like I did. Ralph feels very well at present. He is far too busy but maybe that's good for him. We have some friends named Bowne (not Browne) wholive on Mercer Island. Maybe Bertha's phone book would have them in it. Call her up and tell her we want to hear from her again sometime. Audrey, the little girl was Joe-Joe's playmate when we lived on Greenlake Way, but I lost track of them when they moved. I guess the new building going up across from Ralph's store will add to the importance of our location a lot. Hilding does a good job of managing the store. Call them up and get in touch with Morris who is in Seattle for the summer. Get him to come over and visit you. He's a grand person, so different to what Rod is. Florence Ruth is in New York State for the summer. She says she lives with the wops. Went home with a girl from school. The father is Poites a greek, the mother Norweigan, but Teedle says she has no use for her own kind. How's Bertha coming with Scandahoovians? Do the boys talk it yet? Shirl and John have a cute new house all out of nothing. Dad and Rod built it while I was away and I came home to find the scarlet runner beans climbing up the front of it and the nasturtiums up and groing fine. We've never had any luck with them before. They have great window areas with sashes but no glass in them and the air jut goes wizzing through. It is so cool and nice. In back of the church in Ambon. The Cavaness family went to Batjaan to work, where Wetzels were before the war. We stopped over 2 days there on our way back to Ambon. Dad will spend a week or so with Thalia then visit them; then come home. At least I hope he won't forget he has a little bini (wife), down in Ambon. Well, I must close and get to bed. Thanks so much for writing us, Eunice. Give our love to All. Tell Rilla I often think of her. She is a rare sould, always helping others. Much love from Edna End message from Beth Marsau From: "Beth Marsau" To: "'Chaumont Devin'" Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:34:53 -0700 Subject: RE: Letter from Edna Devin to Eunice, Bertha and All Hi Joe, That was typed from the original letter your mother wrote to my grandmother. Bert is my aunt, the daughter of my grandmother and she was pregnant at the time with her fourth boy. She ended up with five boys, no girls. She is still alive, by the way, and so is Uncle Lloyd. They are in their 90s. ... End message from Beth. From: "Beth Marsau" To: "'Chaumont Devin'" Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:42:19 -0700 Subject: Another letter from your mother Hi Joe, Here is another letter I just found typewritten from your mother to my grandmother Eunice. The paper is quite thin and the type is faint. The letter is written on Halloween of 1947, and apparently Aunt Olive had just recently died and Uncle Edgar and his wife were not well. Edgar, Olive, Bernard, and Barker were the siblings of your father, Ralph. "Shirley and Bob" are in reference to my dad's brother Bob and his wife Shirley. Bertha is my dad's sister and Lloyd is her husband. My mother ("Yum's wife") had been ill with TB and in the sanitarium for 18 months. My grandfather Bernard had died the year before. Eunice had apparently had an operation. I don't know who "Big Joe" is that's referred to in the letter. Rilla was Eunice's sister and known to a lot of people as "Aunt Rilla". Here goes: =============================== Ambon, N.E.I., October 31, 1947 My Dear Devins: May this be sort of a Holiday letter to all of you, since I know only this one address and already owe Shirley and Bob, Bertha & Lloyd, and now Eunice, letters. We lost track of Bob and Shirley and hoped they would drop us a line with their address on it as we love to hear from them, but I will try to include you all in this then you may answer whenever you have time to spare. To hear of all the illness in your families is not cheering but we realize you are probably all imroved exceedingly by now, since your letter is of Sept. 13, Eunice. We trust you came through your operation and are improving constantly; also that Yum's wife is home with her bbaies by this time. We do pray for all of you and entrust you to our Heavenly Father's care. It is such a shame for that big Joe youngster to have silver pegs in legs that have to go with him through life; however we hope and pray they will cause him no further troule and it is wonderful he did not lose a limb, like so many soldiers did in the war. Thanks for all the news, Eunice. You will never now until stranded on your own desert island what it means to get the sweet letters from home. When we think of Lloyd and his lawn mowing of 14 miles or so, that's like a missonary journey in itself, and I'd love to just lie and lie on the new mown stretches under a fair sky and think up a poem or two. But it is a hot summer ay here with a cool breeze and I have thousands of errands to run. Ralph is still in Java and will be until almost Christmas time. Shirley and John live at Kati-Kati across the bay 6 miles. I see them every week or two. She looks lovely since she is having a baby, and it seems to do all us missionaries good. We are all perking up getting ready for the big event and the baby buggy (the only one on Ambon since the war) is on its way from Sears, long about between Java and Makassar somewhere. I have a Chinese girl helper and she is a grand person. She helps me take care of Chaumont, cook, and whatnot, besides interpreting from Malay to Chinese for me on Wednesday evenings. We have had a real stir among the Chines since starting these services and several have taken a stand for Christ. Thalia is away about 300 miles north of here working with other missionaries on Ternate. She is slightly on the other side of the equator, while we are 3-1/2% So. of it. she is a consecrated missionary, and a very beautiful one, and her work is very blessed of God. Florence and Morris are happy in their schools in Srpingfield, Mo. Florence is studying in Bible School; Morris last year High and he has a wonderful time being "it" among all the Missouri "hicks." You know, real Devin style ... I mean Ralph Devin style, of course! We know the other branches of the family are different. And perhaps this accounts for members of our immediate family. Roderick left out, I see. He teaches Malay at Kati, cares for all the machinery and runs things in gernarl while his father is away, but he is far from a missionary, and from the trend of current events I suppose it will not be long now before he is in active service in World War III, though we hate to think about it. He wants to go on and get his degree, Stanford in mind, but I doubt if he'll ever go back to school again. He begged an Admiral in D.C. for the privilege of going to N.E.I. as an interpreter and was turned down ... when he arrived in Batavia there sat the Admiral, who began begging Rod to join his staff, nice promotions in the offing, but Rod took a good laugh at him and came on over to Ambon. We think he will not say here long. We were barely able to pay our income tax at the store last year and we really don't see how she keeps afloat and yet she always does. We rich Devins are the poorest of all a lot of the time, though you relatives would never suspect it. Edgar and Alice Devin are both very low all the time, not expected to live long. Mary writes us a few times a year. Your letter said nothing about Olive's death. Could it be you have not head she died in Las Vegas in Aug. or Sept. (I forget when) Barker arrived after she died, claimed her personal effects, car, etc., had her cremated and her ashes scattered on the desert air. Quite Devinish! Poor Olive, a rather sad end. I know very few details. Ralph took it quite hard for a few days, not knowing whether she ever accepted Christ or not. We have prayed for her for many years and must leave that with the Lord. I should love to see Bertha and her boys. What a crop! I mean the first one. Tell her to follow my example and may the second crop be girls! Every mother should have a lot of them to care for her in her old age! We reallize Bert will never be old, but jus the same ... girls are lovely in the home. Our work here goes ahead very well. We have many converts recently. I just sent out our little paper which should reach you about the same time as this. Perhaps after you read it you could send it on to Bob. We get Fuller's broadcast from Manilla once in awhile. But our electricity is very weak and our radio is not too good. When you dig out the chickens for Christmas dinner, ... out of the freezer, I mean ... well, we're lliable to be eating one too, so don't feel to sorry for us. The chicken suppoy increases here and yet we seldom get one to eat. But we are preparing for Christmas and it looks like we might do all right by then. Potatoes the size of eggs are about 80 cents U.S.A. per lb. We use dehydrated most of the time. They are not quite so expensive. Rice is our main diet and so far we have plenty, but sugar is scarce and you should see it full of ants, bugs, all sorts of dirt. I hope this reaches you in time for a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, and God's riches blessings upon you all, and my love for Aunt Rilla. Love from all us missionary Devins, Yours, Edna End Beth message. 1962 It must have been sometime in March or April of 1962, that night the big four engined prop-driven American Overseas Airways plane landed at the Honolulu International Airport with me aboard. If I remember correctly it was raining, and they announced the temperature as 72 degrees. That was still back before they had finished the new airport. It was a Saturday night. Everything was strange and wonderful to me that night. I was struck with the scent of flowers in the air everywhere. The bustle of gay-colored muumuus. The air was wonderful! I was tingling with excitement. I had dreamed of islands so long! I got a taxi into town with a businessman (and perhaps some others, but he was the only one that I remember), and put up at the YMCA, the new one, at the corner of Atkinson and Alamoana. They gave me a good room on the fourth floor or so, and to me it seemed so strange to have the window open and hear the rush of traffic below, and yet be bathed in that lovely tropical air. A breeze was blowing, and my room was designed just for this, with latticework on the door, just like that of a cabin on a ship. There were coconut palms growin@ outside. Somehow I went to sleep. When I looked out in the morning a wonderful scene awaited me. I looked out over the rooftops and saw the Punchbowl resplendant in the dazzling greens and golds of a Hawaiian morning. The breeze was still blowing. After dressing and consulting the map, I set out in search of the Assembly of God church on foot, and found it at 930 Lunalilo Ave. It was a quanset style building with a church fromt and stone pillars along the sides with panes of heavy glass in between. There were mango trees growing in front. It was early when I walked up the steps and I had to wait awhile. I don't renember just when, but some Japanese young people came and sat on the steps with me and talked to me. There was one little girl that was more talkative than the rest, and I remember her especially! The smell of mangoes was wonderful to me, and brought back old memories, like a scent long forgotten often will. It was the same scent I smelled as a little boy in Australia, when I used to play out under the Schwartz's hsg mango tree in Brisbane. I met Vincent, the pastor, and he yet remembered the days of my father, when he was here on the Evamgel. He took me home with his family, and after dropping a big older woman off somewhere, we arrived at his house, high on the eastern side of the Manoa valley. My heart was thrilled with all the tropic green. So fresh and without the traces of dust one finds on everything on the mainland (California). Like an excellent summer day in the northlands. We had to wind on and on through this green to get to his home. From there we could see out over the whole of the Manoa valley area. Spectacular scenery. The cliffs on the Tantalus side. Out over Honolulu, or back up to where the falls are. He had a big plate-glass window in the livingroom, and binoculars. He had a wife and two daughters. The older one was rather heavily built, and the younger was thin and frail looking. If I remember they served us some sort of roast that day. Perhaps pork with pineapple. We talked and talked in the afternoon, but it later seemed that I wasn't too well received. His wife and daughter seemed to make fun of his plans to get a boat and go to the Southsea islands with the Gospel. At least they seemed to display smug smiles and make smug comments. I didn't like that. I would have agreed to everything he planned except that he intended to go in with medicine and doctors as a fromt, and I couldn't buy that, as I believe in exposing the Gospel or nothing, and also in divine healing. He asked me why the Mohammedans had made such progress in Indonesia, and I made a logical reply that I can't even remember now, but I do remember his quoting it, in church, I believe. They said that they go swimming once a week, and I said that I would like to come along, supposing, of course, that they would be glad for the company. They never said anything more about it. I can't yet understand all the circumstances involved in their lives, but felt that they couldn't quite trust me, a feeling I have never quite gotten used to, since I was always completely trusted on moral matters by my parents, and when I had lived in Ambon I could walk into just about any store and charge whatever I wanted. I also made the mistake of calling him "Vince," which I don't think the family appreciated. I had never meant to be rude, but my superiors had invariably insisted on calling them by their first names wherever I had worked on the mainland. Perhaps things were different in Hawaii. At any rate I was never invited to partake of the Fincent's hospitality again, anB what I had thought might have been the beginning of a good friendship ended there. I must place this among the regrets of my life, and feel certain that it must have been a good deal from that age-old enemy of culture and friendship, misunderstanding. I had supper with them again, and they drove me to the evening service and then home. I think it was next day, Monday, that I trie@ to climb one of those steep green slopes I had seen. The slope I chose (somewhere back up Manoa, I think) turned out to be an impossible tangle of that type of vine-like fern with the stiff stems that we have in Ambon. Try as I may, I found I could make but little or no progress upward through this choking vegetation. I finally gave up, and instead of descending on foot I just rolled down. Descending was so easy and so much fun. down, down, down: such a soft bed of green! One night or another I was wearing that s@a@@y white jacket-type shirt with the low neck and the strip of dark embroidery ribbon running down along the collar, - the one I thought was for $4.95 but turned out to be for $14.95 instead, and I was too upset and embarrased to turn down after I had brought it to the counter that day in that men's shop in Lompoc, - when somehow or other I became acquainted with a short, slight bald man named Frank Smith, who I had started talking to on the way down on the automatic elevator. For some reason or other he took a shine to me and treated me to mahi@r@@@2$ku2@ (I can't really remember which but I think it was the former) for dinner at some fancy place that evening. I think he took me over the Pali that same night and showed me his little shop. objects with a primitive flavour. He drove a pick-up. A Ford I think. Our acquaintance grew and grew. He took me to the International Market place and treated me to ice-cream. That was the night we talked to that goodlooking girl that seemed to have some Island blood in her who was selling aloha shirts. My eyes seemed to be failing me then already, and I had to watch the way I walked so as not to show it. We looked at that big canoe built by the Samoan with the lapstrakes, stern and stem pieces sewn on with sennit cord. We also went to that beautiful place out on the highway on the windward side for dinner. The Balihai, I believe. We were served by women attractively dressed in muumuus. Perhaps that was the day I helped him some at his shop, and hanging that door on a goodown or putting a hasp on it, or whatever it was we did. I just handed him tools, etcetera, and held things. We also had breakfast at Coco's, where Honolulu ends and Waikiki begins. He never would let me pay for a thing. All this time I had been looking for work, and he knew it. I had applied at the employment service right away, of course, and it was being arranged so that I could receive my unemployment benefits from the State of California there, which I later did. Frank's room was one of the better ones, on the fifth and highest floor, I believe. I had been up and seen it. In the afternoons I took advantage of the gym. I worked out with the weights until I was sweaty, then went for a swim, and dove off the board. I almost started taking judo. Then one day (one night, I think), Frank said that he had a job nish 100 @bnma backed armchairs for them. I had no place to stay in Kailua, so at his suggestion I went with him to the pastor of the local A. of G. to see if he might not know something about what I needed. He was Rev. J. Meiers, and it later turned out that I was to room and board at their home at 350 Maluniu St. A house of the older Hawaiian type, build on stilts, and all of wood with linoleum floors. Perhaps there was hardwood in the living room, I don't remember. My room was adjoining the livingroom, across from the steps and entrance. It was either $100 or $150 per month, I don't remember. At any rate it was very cheap. I do remember that much. I loved Kailua, and the east wind, and would go wandering down to the beach with my guitar and look out to sea, and dream of time imemorial, and the Indies. The wind was so strong that I sometimes let it play my lonely guitar instead of strumming with my fingers. The beach was so perfect there, and always more and more and more of the east wind. I could see far out, the breakers curling over the reef. - The following material was taken from my journal and heavily edited: Monday, April 1, 1963. I boarded the Wahiawa bus at Aala Park, in Honolulu. I had with me my guitar, a large pack, and also a small explosives pack, into which I intended to put the foodstuffs that I would be purchasing in the town of Makaha. I was bound for Makua, and the time was probably about 1:00 P.M., Monday, April 1st, 1963. The Wahiawa bus was old, and the ride shakey, and I felt out of place sitting there in a back side seat, telltale pack and guitar beside me. I had forgotten the locations of the different towns, and all the time I kept wondering if Wahiawa was on the north side of the island or on the way to Makua, on the south. It seems I had confused Wahiawa with waipahu. and so I sat, wondering, until the bus stopped and made a right turn which didn't seem to fit in with my memory of the place. I stood up and went to the driver to ask, and he stopped the bus, and made vague gestures, and indicated that Makaha was a different way. I ran back and got my gear and started walking. I knew then that the way I wanted to go lay closer to the coast. I walked some miles, and passed the town of waipahu, and reaching the eva forks saw people vending fruit, which brought back memories of the last time I went to Makua. That old oriental had seemed to say, "a quarter a dozen," and when I payed, he said, "a dollar and a quarter a dozen." then Makua, the blazing sun, the thirst, and the corn was half eaten by worms. About a hundred yards from the forks I was approaching an old man who seemed to be waiting for something. A car pulled up, and he got in. I thought that they were his friends, but they called, so I ran and piled in, gear and all. A cheap-looking woman was driving. She had red hair, and her hands were short and stubby. Her nails were short, protruded from wrinkled fingers, and were covered with red varnish. She talked incessantly about the most abominable profanities. Beside her sat a man who claimed to be an American Indian, and she said that he refused to work. We seemed to have reached Maile or Waianae, I still don't know which, and that was as far as they were going, so thank you, and we really did appreciate it, you know. We stopped in front of a gas station, where I paused to get a drink. The old man walked on. He was going to Makaha. But I was soon up to him, and he stopped me, and told me to wait, and his niece would be coming home from the dentist. We waited and talked for a good while, but she didn't seem to be coming, so we'd better start walking. So we walked for maybe a mile, and then his niece pulled up, and we got in the back seat. It was a black two-door, but I don't know what make. I felt uneasy sitting there because I knew how those Hawaiians hate and suspect a "Haole," but it wasn't any time before we were in Makaha and I got out. I shook hands with the old man and thanked him and the girl. I told him I was Joe. yes, he called everyone Joe. Ha-ha! I bought myself a plastic tarp, some food, and a one-gallon gas can. The food I placed in the explosives pack, and I filled the gas can with water. By now the pack was getting pretty bulky, what with all the bedding, water, etc. I started off for Makua, but it must have been getting on toward 6:00 P.M. The valleys were filled with mist, and the mountaintops were buried in clouds. I walked past the residential section of Makaha, crossed a bridge, and saw some youths coming home from the beach. One asked me where I was going, and why didn't I camp on the beach here instead of going clear to Makua, and why should I be camping out now? This was hardly the weather, etc. I passed the ranch, and all the time my soul was longing for God. It seemed that on that lonely road I could worship Him again. My soul was surging forward of its own accord and struggling to escape the confines of my flesh. I knew that mortal man could only reach so far, and then the body must be left behind. I knew that I was only partially aware--that lurking somewhere in the shadows beyond was my full mind, which I could never grasp until I left the mortal robe behind and stood naked in the glory of the dawn. Now the dusk had come upon the road, and the wind rose, and glancing back I saw the storm brewing in the twighlight. A low, dark cloud hovered out over the sea. Then the rain came. It came in light waves at first, and I refused to believe in it. But then it came a little heavier, and I decided that my guitar would be damaged if I didn't cover it up. This was the old guitar I bought in Tijuana. So I reached back and got out the plastic tarp. It was folded, and would not come apart at first, but finally I managed to open it without tearing, and got it over my shoulders just in time. By then the rain was pouring down and the wind had risen to a fury. At first I just stood there and made sure my guitar was covered, but as it kept raining hard I decided to go on. I began walking as some cars passed by. I didn't really want a ride to anywhere. I had spent many nights in the wilds before, some even rainy, and one more wouldn't hurt me. I expected it. But then a strange thing happened. I saw the headlights of a car. Two indefinite-looking yellow blobs in the storm. It went on past, and I was a good way off the road, trying to keep from getting plastered by the splash. It was so dark that I didn't think it would be likely for anyone to see me. But then it seemed that they came back, and somehow I had thought they might. They pulled up on the opposite side of the road and someone shouted, "come and get in with us!" I ran accross the road and unslung my pack. Someone in the back seat took my guitar, and I piled in the front. The driver introduced himself as john, and that in the back seat was mama and Noni. I tried, but couldn't see any of their faces in the dark. They had a camp on the beach, and I could stay there. Did I have any white gas? that was what they needed. Oh yes, the boys were on a vegetarian diet, so they'd have to go back anyhow. We got to the camp, and I opened the door to get out. There seemed to be some figures standing in the darkness. Here's one more! I got out. "This is Rip, and this is ...," and I couldn't for the life of me seem to catch either name. I was led to the cabin, and the car went off. I entered the room, and set down my pack. It still wasn't raining there. The room was lighted by a storm lantern, and I realized that they had thought I might have white gas in my water can. I was assigned a bunk by a youthful-seeming individual, and protested in vain. Then I was led outside by the same voice, and I followed a cigarette to a wooden bench. There we sat and talked and became acquainted. "And what was your name again?" I asked. "Well, its really -----, but they call me Malau. That means monkey in Chinese." was his response. Then the car came with the groceries and a mob of different individuals, one of whom was Benny. He had sailed in the merchant marine, and been to Singapore, Bombay, and ... And, "Oh yes, you have already met his youngest daughter over there. That's Noni," And I saw that this Noni was terribly beautiful. Then they all left, except for those two former individuals, who now had beer, and sang to the tune of an ukulele till I was fast asleep. And then there was somebody knocking on the screen door, and the very place seemed to shudder. It seemed ironical to me that they should show so much effort, when all they need have done was give one hard pull and the whole structure would probably have come spiralling down on top of us! I got to my feet but I couldn't see anything. I just groped to the door and fumbled with what appeared to be the latch. "Just unwind it!" someone shouted. I grasped the cord I found dangling, and began twisting it around the nail. The door was open, and I stumbled back to bed. The room was filled with people, but the two former individuals couldn't seem to get up. There was a woman, and she sat on a bed to my right. People were now sitting on all the beds except mine. I felt out of place. They got out the booze and started drinking. My eyes were bad, and I could barely see. A little fellow named Beaver started doing something. I couldn't tell what it was, but finally gathered that it must be something quite obscene. The woman on the bed went into hysterics, and rocked back and forth with laughter. "Get 'im, Beaver! That's it! Yay! Ha-ha-ha!" I lay there staring stupidly at the two indistinct figures. Sometimes I saw arms, sometimes I could make out a leg. By this time I was sick with silent rage. I turned my face to the wall and prayed in anger. The laughing subsided and they started singing. Then somebody asked about my guitar. Malau tried to play it, but couldn't seem to coordinate it to the music. After much tuning, he finally gave up, and they asked me to play. I retuned it, and strummed a little in Flamenco style. My playing was not perfect, but it WAS music. Then they sang again. They sang "Michael Rowed the Boat Ashore." God seemed to use my voice then, and I said something like, "Why don't you really mean it when you praise the Lord? You don't know how wonderful it is when you can really praise Him." A sudden change came over the room, and hilarity was transformed instantly to sorrow. An invisible evil seemed to slink away into the shadows of the storm lantern, and the woman who sat on the bed seemed almost to groan. "I wish I could believe that!" she said. "But you can!" said I. "How can you help it? Look at the earth! At the universe! Anyone can believe it! it's silly not to!" "I wish I could believe in Him! I wish I could just praise Him!" she said. "You do!" said I. "I knew it when I heard you sing!" "I know." said she. "Then you should love him!" said I. "Humble yourself. your trying to rebel against something, aren't you?" "Yes." So we talked, and in that moment I knew the first reason why I had come to Makua. This woman and these people needed God. The drunk sitting accross from me tried to argue, but I ignored him and spoke to the woman because I sensed that her need was most vital. Then I felt that I had fulfilled my mission, fell silent, and turned my face again to the wall. I lay there in meditation, but in the background there was a woman who kept saying how she wished she could be like that. Why were those people always so happy? how could they have such peace? "And do you know Spencer? You know Spencer? well, I saw him in church up there talking, and he was glad! I couldn't understand it. And, you know, he used to be the worst crook! but now he's changed." So they talked, and I remembered big Spencer. They were talking about Al's church. Then they started singing again, and they seemed half-hearted enough--especially her. "I don't feel right to sing church songs. Come on. We can't sing church songs while we're drinking like this. Even I know that! Sing something else." Then they tried to sing some other shabby songs, but these just would not do, and after awhile they returned to singing old Hawaiian church melodies in the deepest reverence despite their drunken state. At last I heard only the woman conversing with Rip, an occassional delirious profanity from Beaver, perhaps a snore here or there, and the rain. Inwardly I laughed at the Devil and glorified God for the storm and the wind and the rain. At last she roused her sleeping husband, and they took leave. It was about 2:00 A.M., April 2, 1963, when they came. And who knew what time it was now? "Well, good-night, and I hope you'll pray for me." she said to me as she came and took my right hand in both of hers. "You will now?" "Yes, always," said I, and they were gone. Her name was Frenchy, and her husband was Cobra. I didn't sleep again, but talked to Malau, who sat and drank until the grey of dawn merged with the muddy surf outside. The following three letters have been edited for better reading, but the original words remain the same, even where they appear to be the wrong choice, for example, "neglected" in reference to the native perahus: Friday, April 12, 1963. Dear mother, I left Honolulu a week ago, and have been living at Makua ever since. For the first few days I stayed at a camp belonging to some friends of Baguchi, but then, as I couldn' t stand the continual drunkenness, I looked and found a place that seemed quite inaccessable from the road, and there erected a platform on poles, and put my air mattress on top of that. The ground is extremely rocky and rugged. This place is between one set of cliffs (above) and another set (below) that faces the road. The whole area is covered with "hale koa" trees, and here and there a "kiawe", which spring up through the rocks, and never (especially the former) reach any great height or diameter. There is no water, and the closest town is about eight miles away. Makua is a military firing range, but I am on the bluffs to the northwest, overlooking the sea. The surf makes a continuous roar on the rocks below. So these are the things I encounter on the road to the Indies. It' s been almost four years since I left Ambon, and I still don't know what will happen next. It seems like my existence has been wasted for all these years, but I have done the things that I could, and can do no more. Despite all, God has made his reasons for my coming here very definite on several occasions, and so, I don't have to worry. Especially here at Makua, I mean. God has been working in very mysterious ways, but to explain all in this letter would be impossible. I hope you will pray for me always, so that I might find a way on to the Moluccas, and not linger here. Like I already wrote to you, it is almost impossible to save any money here by working. Especially with me, since I am so limited by my eyes. I am still waiting to here about another way to get there, the details of which it would not profit me to disclose here, but I don't understand the reasons for certain delays, and only hope that they don't signify the cancellation of all prospects from that source. Meantime, to go to Singapore would require a great sum of money, and my financial strength has been reduced to absolute zero, so, if I see you there, it will come in an entirely unexpected way. Also, there is a new mission forming, entirely pentecostal, and if they succeed, they want to finance the remainder of my journey, and give me lisence as a missionary of their organization. I say "their", but I am one of the group as much as anyone, I suppose. Docter Otto Hunt is the one who wants to raise the money, and he says that all he needs to do is to go back to Alaska and contract out a claim. Sunday, April 29, 1963 Dear Mother, I wrote a letter to you on the 23rd, but the winds of Makua •wrenched it from me and carried it off, evidently to sea, west- ward. Anyway, I thank you for your letter of so long ago. Mother: As things are, it is appearant that I will not be able to reach Singapore during your stay unless something beyond my reasoning should take place. I have been here a year, and so one more year of my youth has come and gone, without appearant cause. I have been reluctant to formally request your aid for some time, but now, in the bitterness of my wasted existance, I beg your assistance. I have lived, and toiled, and waited these several years, and the prime of my youth is quickly passing, in vain. I feel that I have no more purpose here. Need I remind you that I have been faithful in the face of great odds? That I have believed when there seemed to be no hope? That I have always forced my way upward, while your other children have forgotten their purity in the madness of their own conceit? That I have loved Him when the very sky seemed to be made of brass? But I am sorry to remind you of my struggle, because that is not the purpose of this letter. And again I remind you of my physical condition, and this again with reluctance, since I have requested healing. But I am here, and there is no one to pray for me, believing. I am alone, and I cannot pray for myself. For this reason I am greatly limited in the work that I can do for profit. And if I must loose my eyes, then let my mortal gaze rest once more on the grasses of the lowlands of Batchian, and linger one last moment on the forest beyond the Ra. As I have written, there is very little reason to expect work here. You know the condition of this place already. So, I hope you can grasp the urgency of my request, and beyond this, I leave the decision to you. Do what you want, and I will not further trouble you with my petition. Please pardon the mentions made of my problems, you know that I have not spoken boastfully, but for a purpose. Meantime I am staying with Mike, who seems to have valued my friendship more than most. I have been back from Makua only less than a week, but while I was there the mental struggle of the jungle became again real to me. The many rivers ahead. Starvation and struggle and weakness. How you lose your morale so easily. How you can cry and rend your soul, and find no responce. Remember? Remember what a periodical from civilization was like? Greet my friends there. Your son, Joe. Monday, April 30, 1963. Dear Mother, I arrived here at Mike's just a short while ago, and found your letter in the box. I had just returned from town and filed my request for a visa with the British consul. I requested one year's visa, and the woman there said that it would most likely come through in about a month. So there seems to be no problem there. As regards the letter I wrote yesterday; If you decide to pay my way to Singapore, please contact the imigration service there at once, for, according to the consulate here, if you contact the imigration service there, and agree to pay the telegraph fee, my visa will come through much more quickly, and I can be on my way. I believe that the fare from here is $400 at the cheapest, and I will again contact American President Lines tomorrow, and arrange a booking just in case, for they seem to be the cheapest as far as American companies go. I didn't ask about the job situation there, but the woman said that it would be possible to arrange a work permit there. If so, then maybe I could find work in some capacity that would at least pay for my living. I heard from Lee Millard not too long ago, and he says that North American has now agreed to a settlement, and that his company planned to file suit within the next thirty days. That was almost thirty days ago, I think, so something must have been done by now. At any rate, I will try to return you the money, even if it means hauling damar from the interior of Buru by pack. I think that once I am in the Moluccas, however, I should be able to make enough money somehow so that I can pay you back, for there, even the comparitively unskilled and sometimes lazy Chinese seem to be able to roll in the stuff. It may take years, but I won't forget. Please remember to contact the imigration service there if you agree to my plans, because the woman at the consul office asked me to write you today, and that way my letter will reach you just about as soon as the request for visa reaches the imigration service in Singapore. I lost your letter, so I don't know when you are going to the conference at Jakarta, but at the earliest, I couldn't reach Singapore before the last of June, it seems, or the beginning of July. Still, sometimes the visas come through much faster, amd it was suggested to me that, with you working that end, it might take only a week. If I reach Singapore before you go to Indonesia, maybe I could go with you, and thence onward to the Moluccas, and, like you suggest, to work for a while with the Parsons, and maybe relieve them. I don't think they will be leaving though, because after so many, many years, they are doubtless very attached to their work there, and their members and congregation. Say, what ever happened to Herman? I can't remember if he ever made it back to Papua. Otherwise I may stay there and help in the work in Singapore-- for a while, till things work out otherwise. Still, you know, with the Moluccas looming there, so near, how could I long remain? I met a man here that used to own a Chinese vessel, which he purchased for practically nothing, and with which he used to make trips to the coasts of china, in the employ of Cheng's regime, and maybe. ....... Ah, but those are abstractions! Still, if I ever reach the Moluccas alive, there is nothing that will ever be able to force me to leave. I would find Soumokil first, and live in the highlands of Ceram till the time came, or go with Bapa Temi, and make my camp on the slopes of Tomahu! But remember, this might be to my benefit, since the people of the highlands are the very ones for whom we have all so long toiled and prayed, and there, in the fastness of the forgotten jungles we could worship in the most perfect liberty. I could travel from place to place, and all I would have to worry about would be the disorganized troops of Sukarno, who have long proven their incompetance in the forests of Ceram, Haruku, and Nusa Laut. Still, I would prefer to live in a more peaceful situation, if possible, and so I struggle. One thing that might benefit us is prau transportation, which thing has been more or less neglected by the former missionaries. In every Indonesian port there are moored, in almost numberless quantity, row upon row of praus. All these have to go somewhere, and to come, and this is without a doubt the reason why Indonesia has been able to exist this long with seemingly no transportation. I must close now, so please remember my requests, and greet Cavanesses. and also, Moors send you greeting, uncle Joe, and Walter Kahumoku, from Al's church, with whom I will enjoy dinner tomorrow. Good by for now, Joe. I had dinner at Walter Kahumoku's house last night. Then we went to choir practice. And after that, returned to his house for refreshments once more. She asked me what I thought about different things concerning the universe and the heavens. I explained to her about the three parts of man and God. Then we cleared the table, and later sat talking in the living room of his house. Then he began to relate the different things of his youth to me. He told me of his father, and that his father had belonged to the shark cult. He said he remembered his father out gathering the fish after dynamiting the ocean floor. He said that he and some friends were standing above, on a hill, trying to frighten off the sharks with stones, but that his father had asked him not to. Then he had seen his father straddling a shark, as though riding the creature. Walter says that he actually was riding it, but it could be due to his inferior command of the english language. There were sharks swimming all around and under him, and he was even feeding them with some of the fish he gathered, just as if the sharks were his friends. Then one day, his father, in perfect health, had gone down and helped some people to pull in and lash a shark. The shark had tried to warn him by striking him with its tail, but he had not given heed. That same night, then, after the household had gone to sleep, Walter had heard his father groaning, and bringing the light he found him to be broken out from head to foot with carbuncles. From then on, his father had had a familiar spirit, and ever after that his mental existence had been a struggle. He had been treated at Kaneohe, and appearantly had been released. He would seem all right, and then he would drink again, and you would hear him arguing about himself, fighting this thing off, and telling it to get out and leave. Walter is a member of the "Gospel of Salvation Church" of Honolulu, and has been saved for many years, and also baptised in the Holy Ghost, so the possibility of error in his statements is very limited, unless the tooth of time has severely gnawed his memory. And so this is one of the only first-hand reports of this sort of thing that I have ever heard from the mouth of a saint. I can offer little in the way of explanation. Monday, April 1, 1963. I boarded the Wahiawa bus at Aala Park, in honolulu. I had with me my guitar, a large pack, and also a small explosives pack, into which I intended to put the food-stuffs that I intended to purchase in the town of Makaha. I was bound for Makua, and the time was probably about 1:00 P.M., Monday, April 1st, 1963. The Wahiawa bus was old, and the ride shakey, and I felt out of place sitting there in a back side seat, tell-tale pack and guitar beside me. I had forgotten the locations of the different towns, and all the time I kept wondering if Wahiawa was on the north side of the island, or on the way to Makua, on the south. It seems I had confused Wahiawa with waipahu. And so I sat, wondering, until the bus stopped and made a right turn which didn't seem to fit in with my memory of the place. I stood up and went to the driver to ask, and he stopped the bus, and made vague gestures, and indicated that Makaha was a different way. I ran back and got my gear and started walking. I knew then that the way I wanted to go lay closer to the coast. I walked some miles, and passed the town of waipahu, and reaching the Eva forks saw people vending fruit, which brought back memories of the last time I went to Makua. That old oriental had seemed to say, "A quarter a dozen," and when I payed, he said, "A dollar and a quarter a dozen." Then Makua, the blazing sun, the thirst, and the corn was half eaten by worms. About a hundred yards from the forks I was approaching an old man who seemed to be waiting for something. A car pulled up, and he got in. I thought that they were his friends, but they called, so I ran and piled in, gear and all. A cheap-looking woman was driving. She had red hair, and her hands were short and stubby. Her nails were short, and protruded from wrinkled-looking fingers, and were covered with red varnish. She talked incessantly, and the center of her conversation seemed to be the most abominable profanity. Beside her sat a man who claimed to be an american indian, and she said that he refused to work. We seemed to have reached Maile or Waianae, I still don't know which, and that was as far as they were going, so thank you, and we really did appreciate it, you know. We stopped in front of a gas station, and I stopped to get a drink. The old man walked on. He was going to Makaha. But I was soon up to him, and he stopped me, and told me to wait, and his niece would be coming home from the dentist. We waited and talked for a good while, but she didn't seem to be coming, so we'd better start walking. So we walked for maybe a mile, and then his niece pulled up, and we got in the back seat. It was a black two-door, but I don't know what make. I felt uneasy sitting there, because I knew how those Hawaiians hate and suspect a "haole," but it wasn't any time before we were in Makaha, and I got out. I shook hands with the old man, and thanked him and the girl. I told him I was Joe. Yes, he called everyone Joe. Ha, ha! I bought myself a plastic tarp, some food, and a one-gallon gas can. The food I placed in the explosives pack, and I filled the gas can with water. By now the pack was getting pretty bulky, what with all the bedding, water, etc. I started off for Makua, but it must have been getting on toward 6:00 P.M. The valleys were filled with mist, and the mountaintops were buried in clouds. I walked past the residential section of Makaha, and crossed a bridge, and saw some youths coming home from the beach. One asked me where I was going, and why didn't I camp on the beach here instead of going clear to Makua, and why should I be camping out now? This was hardly the weather. I passed the ranch, and all the time my soul seemed to long for God. It seemed that there I could worship again. As though my soul surged forward of its own will. There was something in me that tried to escape the confinement of the body then. That knowledge that mortal man could only reach so far, and then the body had to be left behind. I knew that I was only partially conscious then. That lurking somewhere in the shadows beyond was my full mind, which I could never grasp until I left the mortal robe behind and stood unveiled in the glory of the dawn. Now the dusk had come upon the road, and the wind rose, and glancing back I saw the storm brewing in the twighlight. A low, dark cloud hovered there above the sea. And then the rain came. It came in waves first, and I wouldn't believe in it. Then it came a little heavier, and I decided that the guitar would be damaged if I didn't cover it up. So I reached back and got out the plastic tarp. It was folded, and would not come apart at first, but finally I managed to open it without tearing, and got it over my shoulders just in time. By then it was pouring, and the wind had risen to fury. At first I just stood there and made sure that my guitar was covered. But as it kept raining hard I decided to go on. I began walking as some cars passed by. They were funny people, these. I didn't really want a ride to anywhere. I had spent many nights in the wilds before, some even rainy, and one more wouldn't hurt me. I expected it. But then a very funny thing happened. I saw the headlights of a car. Two indefinite-looking yellow blobs in the storm. It went on past, and I was a good way off the road, trying to keep from getting plastered by the splash. It was so dark that I didn't think it would be likely for anyone to see me. But then it seemed that they came back. I thought they might. The car pulled up on the opposite side of the road. "Come and get in with us!" I ran accross the road and unslung my pack. Someone in the back seat took my guitar, and I piled in the front. The driver introduced himself as john, and that in the back seat was mama and Noni. I tried, but couldn't see any of their faces in the dark. They had a camp on the beach, and I could stay there. Did I have any white gas? that was what they needed. Oh yes, the boys were on a vegetarian diet, so they'd have to go back anyhow. We got to the camp, and I opened the door to get out. There seemed to be some figures standing in the darkness. Here's one more! I got out. "This is Rip, and this is ...," and I couldn't for the life of me seem to get either. I was led to the cabin, and the car went off. I entered the room, and set down my pack. It still wasn't raining there. The room was lighted by a storm lantern, and I realized that they had wanted white gas with that gas can I had water in. I was assigned a bunk by a youthful-seeming individual, and protested in vain. Then I was led outside by the same voice, and I followed a cigarette to a wooden bench. There we sat and talked and became acquainted. And what was your name again? well, its really -----, but they call me Malau. That means monkey in Chinese. Then the car came with the groceries and a mob of different individuals, one of whom was Benny. He had sailed in the merchant marine, and been to Singapore, Bombay, and ... And oh yes, you had already met his youngest daughter over there. That's Noni. Then they all left, except for those two former individuals, who now had beer, and sang to the tune of an ukulele till ere I was fast asleep. And then there was somebody knocking on the screen door, and the very place seemed to shudder. It seemed ironical to me that they should show so much effort, when all they'd needed to do was give one hard pull and the whole thing would probably come spiralling down on top of us! I got to my feet, but I couldn't see anything. I just groped to the door, and fumbled with what appeared to be the latch. "Just unwind it!" someone shouted. I grasped the cord I found dangling, and began twisting it around the nail. The door was open, and I stumbled back to bed. The room was filled with people, but the two former individuals couldn't seem to get up. There was a woman, and she sat on a bed to my right. People were now sitting on all the beds except mine. I felt out of place. They got out the booze and started drinking. Then Beaver started doing something. I strained my eyes, and saw some sort of form sprawling on the floor. Beaver seemed to be doing something to it. The woman on the bed went into hysterics, and rocked back and forth with laughter. "Get 'im, Beaver! That's it! Yay! Ha-ha-ha! I lay there staring stupidly at the two indistinct figures. Sometimes I saw arms. Sometimes I could make out a leg. Beaver was doing something. It seemed that it must have been something to do with sex, but I couldn't really tell. Anyhow, by then I was sick with silent rage. I turned my face to the wall and prayed in anger. The laughing subsided, and by this time the former two were thoroughly aroused, as much as a drunk can be. They started singing, and somebody asked about my guitar. Malau tried to play it, but couldn't seem to coordinate it to the music. After much tuning, he finally gave up, and they asked me to play. I re-tuned it, and strummed a little in the classic-flamenco style. Of course it was very imperfect, but anyway it was music. Then they sang again. They sang "Michael Rowed The Boat Ashore." The spirit of God spoke to me then. It seemed to be there all the time, but now it came out. "Why don't you really mean it when you praise the Lord?" Was that how I said it? Or was it, "I wish you people could really praise the Lord! you don't know how wonderful it is when you can really praise him.?" There was a change in the room then. In one brief moment hilarity changed into sorrow. The woman that sat on the bed seemed to moan within herself. It was the deep, pure sorrow of a lost soul for a moment surging deep and pure, but wretched sorrow, perhaps. But in that room there was something more shocking than sorrow. For a moment those mortals had heard the voice of God, and in the shadows of the storm lantern, waning fear was the most startling. I felt it then for a moment. Perhaps it was in the people sitting there, but I felt it. It was as though something invisible had withered and slunk away in teror then. That thing that had prevailed there in the two writhing figures, and dared to approach me in that place, as though it had tried to return without regard to me. But a spirit greater than all had strangled and broken it there. The woman then responded unmasked. "I wish I could believe that!" "but you can! how can you help it? look at the earth! at the universe! anyone can believe it! it's silly not to!" "I wish I could believe in him! I wish I could just praise him!" "you do! I knew it when I heard you sing!" "I know." "Then you should love Him!" So we talked. But in that moment I knew the first reason why I had come to Makua. This woman and these people needed God. But above all this woman. It seemed I knew that from that testimony she would be saved. And yet I still haven't heard if so. But it seemed I knew then, and I glorified God from the depths of my being. I spoke, and the drunk sitting accross tried to argue. I neglected him and spoke to her, for her need was vital. Then I felt that I had fulfilled my mission, and I fell silent, and turned my head to the wall again. I lay there in meditation, but in the background there was a woman who kept saying how she wished she could be like that. Why were those people always so happy? How could they have such peace? "And do you know Spencer? You know Spencer? Well, I saw him in church up there talking, and he was glad! I couldn't understand it. And, you know, he used to be the worst crook! But now he's changed." So they talked, and I remembered Spencer. They were talking about Al's church. Spencer, Al, oh yes, he had re-married now. Atta or Arthur. And then they started singing again, and they seemed half-hearted. Especially her. "I don't feel right to sing church songs. Come on. We can't sing church songs while we're drinking like this. Even I know that! sing something else." Then they tried to sing some other cheap songs, but they didn't seem to work at all. They tried for awhile, but the way they finally ended up was singing old Hawaiian church melodies. And all this was done in the deepest reverence. Despite the drunkenness. They couldn't help it. Then they talked for some time more, but by this time only she and Rip seemed to be up. The only other sound was an occasional delirious profanity from Beaver, and the rain. Perhaps a snore here and there. I had already turned on my pillow and laughed by then. I turned on my pillow and laughed at the Devil, and I was overjoyed that God, in his mercy, had brought me there and given me victory. But it seemed as though life itself was a hollow shell. An immitation. I laughed and glorified God for the rain and the wind. The storm. She had told me that she thought I could help her, but only God can do that. "Humble yourself. You're trying to rebel against something, aren't you?" "Yes." She roused her sleeping husband, and they took leave. It was about 2:00 A.M., April 2, 1963, when they came. And who knew what time it was now? "Well, good-night, and I hope you'll pray for me. She came and took my right hand in both of hers. "You will now?" "Yes, always." And they were gone. Her name was Frenchy, and his Cobra. I didn't sleep again, but talked to Malau, who sat and drank until the grey of dawn merged with the muddy surf outside. The following journal entries were transcribed by Julie Belina, 11/22/89 and 11/24/89: Monday, September 2, 1963, Singapore to Bahau by bus. Spent the night at Bahau Police Barracks. I got up at about 8:30 this morning, ate breakfast, made preparations, and took the bus downtown the first lap on my journey to Pahang. There I got the Johore bus, then the Ayer Itam, then the Segamat, then the Gemas, then Rompin. From Rompin I walked a way into the woods and the night. After sometime, I got a ride on a truck all the way to Bahau, where I met a fellow named Suppia, who turned out to be a policeman, and so I spent the night there with the fellows at the station. They were very kind to me, and didn't seem to kick when I couldn't produce my passport, which I forgot in Singapore. We shot the breeze till late, and made good and lively conversation. Then Suppua begged off, and we all hit the sack. Then Balu came, and we two talked on into the night. So I spent the night at the Bahau police barracks. Tuesday, September 3, 1963, Bahau to Bukit Rauk. By foot, land rover, bus, and canoe. Met the Penghulu, Dir bin Bokhtar, and spent the night with him. I got up at about 7:30 in the morning, and Suppia had already gone, but Balu was still there, and after excusing himself for a time, he returned, and asked me to join him for breakfast. This I did, and we feasted on pancakes and curry at a small Indian coffee shop. After this, I took leave of them, having gone back to bid Suppia farewell. He had turned out to be a real joker, and a wonderful fellow. As for Balu, he was more the intellectual type, and I really appreciated him. I struck out from Bahau, and walked until I had reached well into the rubber groves. I was stopped by a man on a tractor who had been approaching from the direction of ayer-itam towing a mower, and doing a splendid job of trimming the grass along the roadside. He asked me where I was off to, and promptly brought out his wallet, and presented this wanderer with 20 cents, and then suggested that it be used for a train ride. May fortune be returned upon this enthusiast! Then, later, I had the good fortune of being picked up by a government jup*, who carried me as far as the distance to Ayer-Itam or so. From there I walked some distance into the forest, and hearing a sound in the forest, I drew my parang from my pack and looked until I saw movement. I saw a brownish object, and as I watched this "thing," it seemed to be pushing its way up through the bushes. As the thing stood up, I could see its head, and I realized that what I had been looking at was just an old native in khaki pants. I spoke to him in Malay, but he didn't understand. When I said Sakai, however, he nodded his head. Just then, a red and white bus approached, and stopped, and I embarked for Sungai Lui (40 cents). From Sungai Lui, I gathered the information that there were Sakai people there, but there were more at Tasek Bera. I embarked on the Temerloh bus, and after stopping at several towns, we made the junction, where I got off to wait for the bus to Kuala Bera, which is located where the Bera River flows into the Pahang. On the way, I had the time to do some shopping, as our bus stopped over for 1/2 hour at one village. There I foolishly bought a spring for my camera which was far too large. In the process, however, I did get some soap and pomade, for which I paid about 80 cents. The spring was 30 cents. I didn't have long to wait at the junction, for the Kuala Bera bus was not long in coming. I did observe that the place is situated beside a small muddy stream, barely large enough to be navigable by small canoe. The journey from the junction to Kuala Bera took us along the Pahang, a large and beautiful river, and the conductor sat beside me, and told me how the jungle used to be below the sea, and that the hills were islands. This was long ago. He also related to me how a frog, a bridge, and a prince were all turned into stone, and can still be seen today. For that reason, the place is named Batu Papan, because of the bridge. The sun was high as we drew into Kuala Bera, and the conductor told me to follow a Chinese, who was going to Bukit Rauk by canoe. I walked down toward the ferry, and was called by some Malays, who sat yarning on a wooden platform or table situated under a large tree, which commanded a full view of the river below. They wanted to know if I wanted to cross. I had the opportunity of testifying to them and one asked me up to his house for a carbonated drink. We sat and talked, and the good fellow offered me biscuits, which made a good combination with the drinks. There was no ice, however, and so the drinks weren't too enjoyable in themselves. We waited for half a day, and then finally I got a ride in a government canoe with two men (Malays) who had come from tumerloh to work at clearing the forest for $3.10 a day. It had already started to rain at the landing of Kuala bira, but as we pushed off, it settled into a more or less steady drizzle which lasted all the way to Bukit Rauk. The river stretched before us in many green bends that faded into the duller shades of distance in the mists that hovered like steam over the water. A strange and interesting phenomenon. We all paddled together, and as we went, we passed many native canoes, and my companions whispered to me"Orang Asli". The river varied in width from 30 to 50 yards. My companions were Abu, in front, and Busu, steering. The Bera is deep and muddy, and here and there we saw different types of traps in the water. We also saw a monkey trap on the shore. My companions dropped me off at a landing at the base of a small hill, and a couple of the people came down, and led me to the "Penghulu's" house, the last row up before the jungle. The Penghulu turned out to be a slight old man with grey hair fringing his bald forehead, and he allowed me to dwell in his house that night. I climbed up the ladder upon his request, and found a small room with bamboo floors and bark walls, the whole thing raised about four feet off the ground on stilts. I found it difficult to see in the lamplight, but among the faces, I thought I saw one or two women, a combination of lines that spelled beauty in the fading shadows. All this time I had never been able to get away far or long enough to be able to relieve myself. Indeed, the urge had been present even before my departure from Kuala Bera, and I never did succeed until late that night. Despite all this, these are wonderful people, you know, but they just don't believe that white men are bound to the same habits as brown. We talked, and I drank water and ate a piece of bread given to me by my friend --of Kuala Bera. I was beginning to speak of God by the time the Malay guru poked his head in the door. He wanted me to come and see the "school" then, so off we went. He also invited me to his house, but by the penghulus persistance, I stayed with him instead. Wednesday, September 4, 1963. Bukit Rauk to Long's house and back by Dir's canoe. Met Long, Anam and wife, and Long's wife. Was asked to stay and teach them. We were a bit lazy this morning after the conversations of the night, and so i'm not sure just when we got up, but i'm sure it was still early by Western standards. I spent some time at my diary, and then got down to the brass tacks of the Semalai language. I took notes for a long time, and still I don't think I got all I needed, but as man can only do so much at a time, that is, unless he has a more specialized training than mine. There were women in the house, and these dressed without much regard for anything but the most elementary aspects of the idea. Still, in all this, they had an unaffected sort of beauty that could not help but capture my admiration. In what I was doing, that is in studying the language, they seemed to better understand my intentions than the men. After this I took leave of the Penghulu and took a tour of the village. We followed along the ridge, for the village was built on a hill, and soon we found a small group of people sitting around what seemed to be some sort of rolling apparatus, and drawing nearer I saw that a man was sitting on a platform between two sets of these rollers needing a mass of white stuff that had the appearance of bread dough. It was rubber. Thus he worked until the material was approximately rectangular in shape and about one inch in thickness. Then he pressed it through the rollers while his wife l__ned. I was surprised to see that his wife wore no covering over her breasts except for the baby's sling, her only other clothing being a sarong from the waist down. The skin of her back was covered with some sort of skin disease, which produced unattractive white spots here and there. Beside the other rollers sat a handsome young woman in a real serong, her only garment except for a gold chain around her neck, and nothing over her shoulders or the upper part of her back and breasts. She seemed astoundingly like some nymphh from gauguin's paradise in the flesh. Returning to the Penghulu's house, I went in and prepared to leave, but the old man detained me, saying that I should stay for the midday meal. So I waited and ate with him, and we had canned sardines with rice. I also had opportunity to taste the tapioca flour, which tasted a good deal like sago flour, but still do not know just how it is made. That morning however, the Penghulu had shown me a bundle of sliced tapioca root soaking in the stream. He also showed me a large tortoise which he kept tied to a stake in the water. The brute must have exceeded a yard in length, and its back also arched quite high. These are part of the semalais diet. He also showed me the blowgun his brother had purchased from another tribe about 20 years earlier. It seems the semalais didn't make their own. It was probably 2 or more yards long, 1.5 inches in diameter, and flanged to form a mouthpiece at one end. The whole length of the thing was taped with some sort of cloth dipped in _____ and wound round. After our reppast, we took leave of the household (at least I did), and set out for the stream. The old man had insisted that he should accompany me to the guru's house, but I had overheard him saying the name of Bujae several times, and so was not surprised when we passed the guru's landing without stopping. Thursday, September 5, 1963. Bukit Rauk to Kuala Bera by canoe. Bus to Temerloh. Contacted Mother by phone there, and was promised Alfred would come if possible. On to Bentong by bus. Bentong to K.L. on banana truck, to Jalan Gasing Petaling Jaya by bus. Reestablished acquaintance with Osgoods. Met ... Spent night at Osgood's home. Friday, September 6, 1963. Breakfast with Osgoods. Alfred arrives. Chapel at the school. Lunch out, and shopping. K.L. to Temerloh by bus with Alfred. Met 2 china inland missions women at Temerloh. Slept in clubroom offered us by a local Chinese member. Saturday, September 7, 1963. Temerloh to Kuala Bera by bus. Kuala Bera to Bujae's landing by canoe rented from Awang at $1 per day. Received and fed by Anam and wife. Slept with Long. We ate lizard for first time. Sunday, September 8, 1963. Service in the morning. Very informal. Was forced to behead chicken between singing and preaching. Ate chicken for lunch, and returned canoe to Kuala. I in one canoe, Alfred with Petyotyot steering in the other. Arrived back at dusk. Meeting in evening. (Sermons: morning: The Sower, The Straight Way(John B.) The Feast. Evening: The Rich Man and Lazarus. Monday, September 9, 1963. A treck to the hill and the Batu River and back. Then well-digging. Tuesday, September 10, 1963. Well-digging. Service in evening. Preached on baptism of Holy Ghost, and prayed with them. No immediate result. Wednesday, September 11, 1963. Carried rice from longs field hut. Stayed home with sore feet. Alfred went with Anam and brought home many gandarias. Thursday, September 12, 1963. To trail by canoe, by foot to road in company of Al and Petyotyot. Bus to Durian Tawar and Mengkarak alone. Met Jit Sing and wife at Mengkarak. Lunch and supper with them. To Singapore by night mail. Friday, September 13,1963. Arrival at Singapore. Station to house by bus and foot. Rest at house. Service at Ku's house in evening. Proposed Mr. Ho accompany me to Malaya. Saturday, September 14, 1963. Downtown to shop. Bought tools. Mother feint, forced to return early. "Christ's Ambassadors" at Bethel and Faith. Sunday, September 15, 1963. Fever gone. Still weak. Tuesday, September 17, 1963. Fever still gone. Getting strong. Here are some Christian songs in the Semalai language. I think I learned them from Long. I have used '^' to encode the schwa vowel sound: Berkom Tuhan Yesus Berkom k^ s^mbru K^ s^mbru t^m Yesus T^ Yesus K^ s^mbru 5553 | 332 | 22323325565 5353 | 3432| TITNOX JAKNOK YESOS LAX KUBUS LAX DOSAX JI ROM DOSA YE NO TITNOX JROJROS PERTYAYA IN JESOS TITNOX JUROS, TUHAN PANGGIL INJIX, DOS IN KUHTYU BOIMA TUNGGU YIX JRO JROS PERTYAYA INKUN End transcriptions by July Belina. AUGUST 11, 1964. Dear Aunt Florence, I hope that you have recieved my telegram to halt Morris's letter in time. You are welcome to read it if you like. I tried to explain to him that since I had heard from him, I had decided not to attempt to stay on illegally in Indonesia as it would jeopardize his work there, and be to much of a risk for him all the way round. I, of course, still planned to enter Indonesia at the first oppertunity, but to do so in a way that would be safer for him. It was my opinion therefore, that to make a trip into Indo- nesia now would mean a waste of valuable funds, plus exposure to other unforseen problems, such as, possibly, not being able to find a place to stay in the Orient on my return. (It is so econo- mical to live in Singapore as now). Above all, it would be disastrous for me, at this stage, to return to the States. So it was, that I wrote to Morris, asking him to cancel plans for my visit, and begging his pardon for the unnecessary inconvenience caused to him. On further considerations, however, it seemed to me that this granting of a visitor's visa was a blessing in disguise, and that if I could obtain another visitor's visa to here for, say three months from now, I would have nothing to loose. Cost of living is so low in Indonesia that I might even be able to get along on my $50, traveling expenses and all. Also, this gives me the matchless opertunity of studying the situation there first hand. I cannot help but feel that it is the Lord that has provided all this in his great mercy, and that he has provided a way somewhere that we may not even see at present. You should be prepared for the immediate transfer of about six hundred dollars to a bank or banks in Bangkok. I will be there about the time you recieve this letter, so time is of the essence. I will provide my fare to bangkok from here, and all time saved at Bangkok will be money in the bank for me. You should phone Mother immediately, and get her confirmation on this, and ask her what the exact amount im travelers cheques is that is required on entry in Indonesia. I think it is US1500, That is why I mentioned $600. Plane fare probably won't exceed $100 to Jakarta from Bangkok, but Mother can most likely set us straight on that too. Once in Indo- nesia I will rely on Morris for support in Rupiahs, and, if at all possible, retain the $500 intact till my return. At any rate, my fare back to Singapore and all other essential expenditures will be more than covered by that, and I will forward the balance directly to you. It might be adviseable to arrange the $500 in traveler's cheques for delivery in Bangkok at the nearest American Express Co. Else you could arrange a bank draft on First National City Bank of N. Y. at Bangkok. For me the simplest arrangement would seem to be to arrange the whole thing through American Express Co., who should know exactly what to do. However, I feel you should know more than me about this, and urge you to take the most economical course available. I will contact American Express Co. upon arrival at Bangkok, so please forward all mail to them. My deepest thanks for all your troubles on my behalf. Sorry I had no alternative but to write you, since Mother has appearantly left for Seattle or some place. Hello to Uncle, and all our friends there. May God bless and keep you.— Yours, Chaumont Devin AUGUST 12, 1964. Dear Aunt Florence, By now I suppose that you have recieved both my telegrams plus my letter. I only hope that you are not too thoroughly confused. First, I find that I can arrange a loan with the help of R.B. Cavaness at the First National City Bank of New York. He will be signing for it, so you should forward the correct amount to him, as per my cable. Second, you are not required to bring any given amount of money into Indonesia, so long as you have a return ticket. The fare there is $140 one way by air, which would give us something below $280 round trip. Train from here to Bangkok will be less than $50, which brings it to $330. Now, as both fares will probably be somewhat less, it would probably be safe to say that we have $300 taken care of so far. Then I will have left $100 to cover my stay at bangkok, plus any emergency that might arise. I cabled you to send $410 to Cavaness, which, after deductions for buying travelers cheques and interest will give me the sum of $400 in travelers cheques, which should more than cover my complete journey. With this loan you will have one month in which to get the money to Cavaness($410), and I will be free to go. I will leave here by train on Sunday morning, and arrive Bangkok in about 2 days. I hope to get sea transportation from Bangkok if possible, and in that way reduce my expenses and refund this money to you, but I feel that it is necessary to be prepared to fly, as transport is very uncertain in this part of the world. If for any reason at all it should be impossible for you to meet these requirements, please cable me immediately c/o the U.S. consulate at Bangkok so that I can cancel or delay my trip before it is too late, as, upon arrival there the bulk of my loan will be intact, and it will still be possible for me to refund Cavaness without too great a financial strain. There is NO American Express Co. at Bangkok. Can you imagine that? Therefore, forward all correspondence to me c/o the U.S. Qonsulate, and if I find out that there isn't any U.S. Consulate when I get there, I'll simply give up and go eat worms! R.B. Cavaness is at 33J Chancery Lane, Singapore. Thanks in advance for your help. Sorry I made some errors in my first letter, but I hadn't had time to straighten out my plans. I hope that what I have said to you is clear, and that I have given you the necessary knowledge of the situation. May God continue to bless and strengthen you and Uncle Bob. The 1965 material contains transcriptions of original, hand-written entries, transcribed by Julie Belina, October-November,1989. This must have later been verified by electronic scanning, because it is preceded by this note: "The following scanned using dot-matrix setting. Underlines were first used to mark questionable scan results. They were later used to surround underlined words." Notes about journal entries for January 1965: In the original I seem to have spelled the name of the East Indian man "Morley" instead of "Moreley," and the wood "baranti" instead of "meranti." I also seemed to have written "calking" instead of "caulking." The part about "lunch with John So, from Customs," was not clear in the original, so I really have no idea what it meant. January 1, 1965. Discouragement after rough night at Ramunia. Sandbags rotten. Boat leaking. Sailed all day to Pengerang. January 2, 1965. Pengerang to Singapore. Sailing past kelongs all day. Stopped by patrol. Saw swordfish jump. Music on the radio. David Chin met me at Kallang River. My body covered with what Mrs. Crosby called "salt blisters." Seemed to get them wherever my skin chaffed against the boards. Sunday, January 3, 1965. To church in morning. To Crosbys'. Crosby helped in afternoon to move boat upstream. Monday, January 4, 1965. To R.B.'s for lunch and visit. Letter to Mother. Bought seven pounds of round-steak for Crosbys. Marge made me a piece. They don't know how to prepare steak. She fried it in deep oil. My mast was evidently broken by a big tongkang, which came in from Siam during my absence, for it was snapped off just at the iron hoop that the stays were fastened to. Tuesday, January 5, 1965. Mailed passport to Butcher. Painted boat. Arranged my books for pick-up by Moreley & Co. Collin and Marge brought pump. John Gunasagaran came. Letter from Mother with check. Wednesday, January 6, 1965. Painted deck. Dried sails. Wrote Mother. Thursday, January 7, 1965. Applied second coat of paint. Moreley didn't show up. Found out later that he couldn't find me. Friday, January 8, 1965. Met Moreley at Calvary church. Stored books for M$3 per month. M$4 for pick-up. My paint job damaged. Saturday, January 9, 1965. Brought boat. Unloaded with a tongkang's block and tackle, dropping it all into the black waters of the river. Put extra wood on cabin. Got boat part way up on land. Sunday, january 10, 1965. Caulking and tarring being done by Chan and other carpenter. Extra nails being added to planking. This meranti wood they use swells a great deal when wet,and the planking had come so loose in the beating it got in the channel that you could slide match-box wood between the planks and frames. Monday, January 11, 1965. Tarring and caulking completed yesterday for M$30. Put boat in the water again this afternoon. Tuesday, January 12, 1965. Tried to put ad in the paper to sell my boat. Failed. Went to see Marge,and met Paul. Testified. David arrived, of all people. He is the one that was with me on the boat for awhile, but turned out to be good-for-nothing. Went home. Bought mast,and started work. Wednesday, January 13, 1965. Finished mast. Its diameter too small. Found my stays missing. Apparantly stolen while the boat was being caulked and I had everything piled on the wharf. Thursday, January 14, 1965. Tried to get ballast. Brought seven young men and sailed down river and out into harbor with only clothesline wire for stays. She wouldn't sail properly,and all I ended up with was a charge of M$11 for towing her back. Discouraged and disappointed. Note from memory, 12/31/87: I remember this day, when we almost got rammed by a huge tongkang, which saw us and altered course at the last moment. The breeze was light. For some reason, it seems we could not get underway, and we had to just sit there drifting while the tongkang (chinese junk) bore down upon us. She approached from the east, which I remember as being off to our port. She veered slightly to port, moving at perhaps all of 1.5 knots, and we beheld a marvelous sight. As I remember it, it was an old Chinese man wearing blue shirt and baggy, black pants. In his mouth was a pipe, and he held a sheet rope in his hand. He looked as if he had been holding that pose for the last thousand years, and with the heavily-burdened tongkang moving so slowly, it made me think of how long their sea voyages must last, and of what patience they must have. This one was probably laden with a cargo of pickled cabbage (achai), packed in urns (guchi), from Siam. The empty urns would either be sold for M$0.10 each, or broken to smitherenes. Large plots used to be strewn with just such pot-sherds in Singapore, because there was often nothing else that could be done with used urns. I noticed such potsherds on the Faith Church Assembly of God property at Kim Keat road. Friday, January 15, 1965. Went with R.B. to the American Embassy, Immigration, and the bank, borrowing US$410. Treated R.B. to lunch at the American Club. Went to see both Matthew Yang and Sister Neighbour, but both not home. Saturday, January 16, 1965. Very strong wind today. Slept some. Treated Austin Gomez to ice cream at the pleasant shop on the east of Crosbys' house. Showed him my travellers' checks. Sunday, January 17, 1965. Slept at Austin's. Refused to lend him M$1 to go to church. Went to church at Calvary. Got a letter from Mother at R.B.'s, and had lunch there. Had dinner with Ahmed, and He took me to see Sister Neighbour, who was sick (if I remember right), and I prayed with her in front of him. Note added 12/31/87: Ahmed was a Malay policeman who lived on the ground floor of the same apartment house as Austin Gomez. It was an apartment on the right as you turned seaward from Mountbatten Road onto Kampung Kayu Road. The address was Kampong Kayu Road, and it was on the west side of the street. I think the apartment house belonged to the police. Austin wasn't a policeman, but he lived with a Chinese lad named Elvis, who was. Austin and Elvis lived at 33J, I believe, which would have been the tenth floor. I think I first met Ahmed when he came malingering around my boat, probably snooping about for illegal drugs, namely opium, which was a problem with the Chinese tongkang people. Monday, January 18, 1965. Cleaning up the boat. Went to Katong post office, but it was closed for the holidays. There was no mail. Found my stove was stolen. Haris came again. Austin Gomez came. To Ahmad's in PM. Tuesday, January 19, 1965. Slept well, but am getting a sore throat. Feeling spiritually distressed. Had to move boat. Haris was waiting on my return from breakfast. Rain. Stored goods. R.B. arrived with my Indonesian visa stamped in my passport, good for three months. A visitor's visa. Wednesday, January 20, 1965. Thai consulate. Cholera clinic. Straits Times. High Street. Getting all squared away for my journey. Thursday, January 21, 1965. I slept at Elvis' last night. Ad in paper. 5:00 PM, and no response. Painted all day. Friday, January 22, 1965. Painted cabin interior. Went to see Crosby family off, but it seems their plane was just leaving as I arrived. I climbed up to the balcony, and only hope they saw me. Went to Tommy Barnett meeting, and felt it was good. Saturday, January 23, 1965. Reading and painting boat. Moved boat back out. Cold still a bit bad. Austin Gomez went to Victoria Theater with me to hear Tommy Barnett. Sunday, January 24, 1965. Morning service at Calvary. Evening at Victoria Theater. Both Austin and Elvis came with me. I couldn't detect any response. Monday, January 25, 1965. Painted decks. Tried to get someone to watch the boat for me while I am gone to Indonesia, but had no success. Elvis stood up during altar-call last night. He seems to be really sincere about following the Lord. I sang and read from Word to him today. Tuesday, January 26, 1965. Elvis busy memorizing vast portions of John 1 from the Gospel of John that I gave him. Moved boat. Went to town. Customs. John Soh, from customs. Lunch with Austin and Elvis. Received a letter from Alfred Ang. Wednesday, January 27, 1965. A man came to see my boat. I bought my train ticket to Bangkok. Thursday, January 28, 1965. Left Singapore at 8:10 A M. Crystal-clear morning. Roast chicken for lunCh. Saw Alfred Ang in Kuala Lumpur, and talked with him at coffee shop at station. Left in the night, and arrived at Mertajam at dawn. Friday, January 29, 1965. Left in the night, and arrived at Mertajam at dawn. Through northern Malaya and southern Thailand. Train grew overcrowded toward evening, and returning from the dining car, I found my place taken by a woman. Saturday, January 30, 1965. Spent night sitting on a Time magazine near the end of a coach. Met a Rev. Lewis, from C.I.M., on his way to Bangkok to study. Went back to his coach. He is the one doing the Malay radio work for FEBC, I believe. The program with the poetry. Arrived at Bangkok in early afternoon. Went to YMCA Got permission from Pauline to use bathing facilities with the agreement that if I couldn't get on a plane today, I would spend the night. Had my first bath in four days. Had been wearing tight new jeans, and developed itch in the crotch. Found out that Thai has a flight tomorrow, but Garuda has one tonight, although tourist class is all booked up. They said I could come on out anyhow, and that if someone didn't make it, I could have their seat. It finally turned out that they let me on first class for a tourist-class fare. The plane was to depart from Bangkok at 8:00 PM, and I was at the airport, But true to Indonesian procrastination, we never got off till 12:30 A M. While waiting for the plane, I sat down in the lobby, and wrote the following: (Joe: A hand-written note says, "edited and altered some".) "I have arrived at Bangkok International Airport after two nights and as many days aboard Malaysian and Thai Rails from Singapore. I left Singapore on the morning of Thursday. It was one of those golden mornings that only happen in Malaya. The air was clear and cool, and a stiff breeze was blowing. We swept on to Kuala Lumpur, where I saw Alfred Ang again, and then on into the night till Bukit Mertajam, and changed trains. All day long, I was awestruck anew by the mountains of northern Malaya and southern Siam. Monstrous limestone cliffs rising out of an endless sea of rice fields like fantastically rugged islets, covered with untouched jungle, so that you wondered if each might not have a name. And then on into the gathering gloom. Hadjai, Thongsong. Wretched night. My seat taken by some Thai girls. No place to sit or lie, so I spent the night on my latest issue of Time, which protected my rear from the filth of the floor. Arrived at Bangkok noon today, and am now leaving on Garuda, at 11 PM. This is the final sequence in my long journey to the Indies." Sunday, January 31, 1965. Arrived at Kemayoran in the early morning by a Garuda Convair 990 jet. No one was there to meet me, as no one knew when I was to come. I had no Indonesian money, and had to get a new international vaccination card, the woman said, for which I was forced to pay with a couple of handkerchiefs or so. I had only a small valis with me. Only one pair of long jeans, and a pair of Levi cotton slacks, bought on High Street. I had no way of getting anywhere, and no telephones at my disposal, and having a very hard time with my eyes. After some time, a young Garuda employee, Bob Lasut, lent me rp2000, after asking about me and hearing my story. With rp500 of this, I got as far as Pecenongan, where it was still so dark I could hardly begin to see. Walking up Gang Seha, whose bald head should I spot in the window but Martin Thenu's. He was evidently up doing some early morning homework. I thought it was Stephanus at first, he has gotten so bald since I saw him last. He took me to Coas' place by beca, where I met Eng and the Coas. They welcomed me happily. Who should be at the new Batutulis church as speaker that morning but Morris! Embraced him. Also saw Au (Augustina Siwabesi) Kaihatu. Hugged her. Staying at Coas'. Almost blind, what with tiredness. Ineke leading me around (to church). Monday, February 1, 1965. With Morris and Fred Duncan, who is going to take Parson's place at Ternate. Petersons' in evening. Met Meiers. Went with Morris and got Ketcham. Took him to Meiers'. He left again that same night. Tuesday, February 2, 1965. Rude awakening! To bandung with Duncans and Eng Hoat. With Joyce and the kids. Wednesday, February 3, 1965. Ais Pormos came. Tomasoa. Preached at the evening service. Thursday, February 4, 1965. Morris departed. Preached at the prison. Wonderful response. Friday, february 5, 1965. Eng Hoat went to get money. Then he took Duncans and Joyce to register. Practised with Duncan's guitar (Gibson, I believe). Listened to Carlos Montoya record. Saturday, February 6, 1965. Study. Joyce made bread. Preached at C.A.s in evening at the church. The Spirit moved wonderfully. Sunday, February 7, 1965. To Jakarta with Eng Hoat. I missed the Ambonese who had waited for me at the church. Met Tet. Morris didn't come till evening. Am staying with Coas. Monday, February 8, 1965. Took off for Makassar by plane but had trouble and plane had to return. Arrived at Makassar on toward noon, Makassar time. The Kairupans were at the Makassar airport. Kairupan was leaving for Java, if I remember right. I met Brother Bliss again. He took me in to Makassar in his station wagon, together with those nationals attending the CMA conference. They couldn't take me in as they were filled up. I had a talk with Leo, Tante Netty's son, in the evening. Tuesday, February 9, 1965. I am staying with Tante Net at the old place. To the waterfront with Allen. No ice cream at Toko Nam. Spoke on faith and Elisha and the invisible army at the church (in the upper room). They are having troubles in the church with Kairupan evidently chief cause. Surprised at the hatred that exists in the country. Wednesday, February 10, 1965. Allen departed. I spoke on 1 John 4 at the evening service. Was begged to eat at Kairupans' after service, but refused. Thursday, February 11, 1965. Aci and Martha and Lis came. Lis brought chicken. Mrs. Kairupan brought papaya and bananas and Bread. Friday, February 12, 1965. Spoke again, on lust and fruit of the Spirit. Flight again delayed. Saturday, February 13, 1965. To GIA again. Flight confirmed for Sunday this time. Sunday, February 14, 1965. To airport. No plane after all the work of getting down to Mandai and "daftaring" myself. Monday, February 15, 1965. Mandai again. Helped a bank clerk who was overweight by putting some of his things on my ticket. He is a Moslem from Wakal or someplace. (1993 note: This man was actually from Sawaii. He worked at the Bank 1946, in Ambon). We actually flew to Ambon this time. It was a beautiful day, with white clouds and blue mists. Ji Nam was on the plane with me. I sat beside a Drs. returning from Java after several years' absence. We had lunch aloft, and it was very good. Gado-gado, krupuk, coffee,and a banana. We flew over Buru and Ambelau. Ambon! Beloved Ambon. Couldn't stand to wait around at Laha for more of the old grind, so I just started walking. Like in a mystic dream. The forest spoke to me. Ambonese women passed me, all dressed up in sarong-kabaja. Walked all the way to RumaTiga. Boy and girl on bike. Children asking me for cigarettes. Thinking I was Russian some boys swimming offered to duck me (in Ambonese). So beautiful, So unreal. The view of rolling hills: small mountains and water in the afternoon sunshine. Got a ride on a Jeep from Rumatiga to Kate-Kate. I Arrived at twilight and Bill Brown greeted me from the verandah just as if I always came in like that. Tuesday, February 16, 1965. With Oce. Spoke at chapel. To Ambon. Police. Immigration. Lateri. Went for swim. Found out about taboo.(No mixed bathing). Talked to Keri after church. Wednesday, February 17, 1965. Tinus and Lena. Others. Kate-Kate. Talked to Keri in a perahu as he was leaving to go fishing and I was goofing around (in Esaf's perahu, I believe). Then later at his house. Thursday, February 18, 1965. To Ambon again. Saw Tante Eng. Departed for Leksula on B.O. #57. Riptides bad off Cape Alang. Lost a sack of rice and I was fearful we might lose some passengers. had to turn back off Pulau Tiga, listing and leaking. Anchored in Labuan Tapi. Fell asleep in Pilot-house, and nearly fell off bench and through door except that No Behuku(ex-raja's son) detained me with his arm. Tough night. We drifted in near the rocks. The boat was pitching badly at anchor. Friday, February 19, 1965. Tried again, and succeeded in crossing the strait. The wind was strong from the north. There was lots of spray. Everything was wet and salty. We reached Namlea in the evening, after passing through showers. I bought some gogos-es. Slept on bench. Saturday, February 20, 1965. Left in the morning. Stopped at Simi, and Wamsisi. We arrived at Leksula late at night. Lena had been seasick all the way I was traveling with Lena and Tinus. Petu Tama came and got us In his canoe. Saw Apong, Bapa Temi, Mama Mura, Isjbak, and Oom Te. The kids were crowding around and into the house and gawking at me. Sunday, February 21, 1965. Preached in the morning service after singing Intan-Intan Dan Permata. Talked about the work being like a kebun, where the jungle would sprout up again if it were not continually cleared. Weeping spirit. Bert cried and cried. I laid hands on him and prayed with him. Visited with Martin Lesnusas. I ate lunch at Oom Chor's, where I am staying. Talked with Bapa Temi. The church board met in the afternoon. Bapa Temi spoke in the evening service. Monday, February 22, 1965. Checked in at the government offices. Semuil (Emo). Went to EnBotit stream and bathed. It was too late to go on to the beach. I gave Oom Chor Rp2,000. Tuesday, February 23, 1965. Breakfast and visit at Martin Lesnusa's. Strange weariness in my body, like hunger. Went off kasbi at the evening meal. Tried to reach En' Botit beach again this afternoon but failed. Preached on fear in the evening service. Wednesday, February 24, 1965. Bananas for breakfast. Coffee. Strange sensation of darkness " folding in on me" to mold me into the same shape as the natives. Must be comradship. It seems that a day or two after my arrival at Leksula I began to feel a strange weariness come over me. At first we ate rice, but I went more and more onto an herb diet after I found that rice was something of a luxury here, and I was unwilling to take the pig's share. My weariness has slowly increased, and it occurred to me that our diet consisted largely of boiled tapioca. I recalled that I had read that certain peoples of Latin America were incapable of work because of their low protein diet. The article, however, had also mentioned that tapioca had been a major ingredient in their diet, and knowing that tapioca is a poisonous plant, I supposed that my difficulties might have arisen from ppoison built up in my system due to an overdose of tapioca. Last night our diet consisted of tapioca, peanuts and shredded tapioca leaves and coconut meat. I partook of the last two but abstained from the former. This morning I had 2 fried bananas and one cup sweetened coffee, without cream. It is now mid-morning, and I am still extremely weary. If my difficulties were actually from poisoning, I feel that the symptoms should have begun to subside by now\ so it is my belief that this weariness must be because of my present low protein diet. Tinus has also complained of weariness. When I questioned Petu Tama he said he often felt weary ("lombo") or soft. Here are my personal symptoms: uncanny weariness, light-headedness or dizziness, tending toward optical black-out if I suddenly stand up, craving for protein yeilding foods, like fish, meat, eggs, etc. I also have a bad taste in my mouth, bad breath, and a metallic sort of tasting phlegm, but feel these may come from other causes. If i recall correctly, this "metallic" taste was already present before departure from Ambon. I feel that our work here at Leksula has suffered from this cause a great deal, and, if I am correct, the reason behind many failures may be simply malnutrition. I also recall that Yom, who was by far the greatest preacher ever at Leksula, was also a cunning hunter, and that Temi, the apostle to the wilderness has always had meat in his diet when I have been with him. Thursday, February 25, 1965. Felt stronger today after eating some dried fish I bought at a Chinese shop and brought home. Walked along the beach from Leksula and reached En' Botit beach. Friday, February 26, 1965. Went to En'Botit again with Oom Chor this time, who was drying his copra. Had long talk with him at his hut in the forest. Lesnusa and his little boy Alfi today. We went bananas. I spoke on wisdom in the evening service. Sunday, February 28, 1965. Preached in the morning service. Went visiting with Emo. Felt no annointing to preach in the evening service so Tinus spoke. MARCH 1, 1965. Don't remember about today. March 2, 1965. Copied Jom's letters until noon. Went to pray in the church but was disturbed by kids. Went back into the hills and prayed in a plantation. Preached on the Ten virgins in the evening service. Argued with Martin and Tinus who think doors have to be kept closed during prayer service. Told them that we would be a second Gereja Protestant in a few years. March 3, 1965. Went to Bert's. We made plans to leave for Kawiri at three in the morning. Ate at Emo's. March 4, 1965. Didn't get off last night, but hope to leave tonight instead. Went to En' Botit with Martin Lesnusa. Out to En' Botit Isle. We found Amer at Martin's family coconut plantation, where we broiled some of the fish and baked some green bananas and ate them with him in the forest. Bert Solisa, Amo and I left for Kawiri in Bert's big kole-kole late in the night. The sky looked dark to my companions, as if a bardaya were threatening, so we put in at Enbotit Isle, where there is a fine little stretch of beach on the landward side. We had to backtrack some to get there, but it was worth it because, contrary to Enbotit Beach, the islet has no mosquitos or gnats whatsoever. A really fine place to rest. We lay talking on the sand, until my two companions fell asleep. Amo talked like if everything were fine with him spiritually, but I later learned that nothing could be farther from the truth. He talked about the shortcomings of everyone in the church (if I still remember correctly). I stayed awake, and had to rouse them when the kole-kole started getting washed around in the surf. I couldn't see a thing, of course. Friday, March 5, 1965. We paddled on sometime in the wee hours, and coasted mile after mile under Buru's ponderous cliffs in the darkness until a spectacular Moluccan dawn burst flaming from behind the jutting spires behind us. We arrived off that stretch of rocky beach known as Kawiri at about seven or eight in the morning. Thanks to the timing of Bert and Amo, we made it in through the surf to the mouth of the little stream and were ashore at last. My wallet had gotten wet so I rinsed it in the fresh water that flowed sparkling over the pebbles in the morning sunlight. I was led up to Bert's missing brother's house and stayed there. He went off in a perahu called the Immanuel and has never come back. His wife is part Chinese, and comes from Lateri. I went to see Behukus' house and saw No and his father. I think I saw Harold that day too. His home is in a different apartment of the same house as the missing brother's home. Saturday, March 6, 1965. Strange behavior. Warnings about discretion. Had been drying my money that got wet in the stream. Bert off to the fields all day. Terrible feeling of being incessantly watched. Can't even bathe alone, but am always watched. Every move I make. People completely tactless. Whole village (men folk) turns out to watch me bathe, and make comments on my private parts in Buruese. I am suffering from the jockstrap rash I got on the train from Singapore to Bangkok. Horribly embarrassing! and none of them has the slightest regard for my feelings. I could every bit as well have been an animal. To rebuke them for this did no good, I later discovered. They are completely shameless. (I didn't write all of this at the time, as I was still willing to justify the Ambonese then. I used to have great respect for them.) Sunday, March 7, 1965. I went to the protestant church. The meeting was terribly dry and long. I found the bamboo flutes and black coats interesting, however. Brilliant sunshine this morning. Monday, March 8, 1965. Went to the Ex-Raja Chorneles Behuku's for a chat. I took off for Tifu, much against everybody's advice (as if I regarded that type of advice). It was a beautiful day. The sun was blazing in a cobalt sky. There was fantastic scenery. The path led over big rocks during the first part of the way. Then it led out into the break, where savannah stretches back into the high mountains of the interior. On the trail near a little stream between the grasslands, I met a Mohammedan gentleman wearing a songko. He was some sort of "kepala Kampong" somewhere, I think, and he said that he knew my parents from way back. I was out-of-sight of the beach till Tifu Bay. Tifu bay is a spectacular sight, like Hanauma Bay, Oahu, only bigger. I stopped, and sketched the bay while I was still high above the final descent to the canoe landing, up where the grass had been burnt off. I met Tinus' brother at the canoe landing on the opposite shore. Had to "yoo-hoo" for a canoe for a long time before anyone would come to pick me up. If I remember right, it was from one of the Butonese perahus lying at anchore that a boy finally came and fetched me in a kole-kole. In the meantime I had gone in for a swim. If I remember correctly it was today that I ate at the marinyu's house, and he and his wife were just preparing to leave, for Leksula, I think. Tuesday, March 9, 1965. Chills at night. Fever. I didn't know it, but this was my first taste of malaria. My first round. Fever gone in the morning. Climbed around a bit on the little islet near the north shore. Went exploring where the fresh water comes out under the cliffs. Relieved self and rested on the little stretch of beach bay ar there. go go ed a sea turtle. (Am staying with him at his relatives. Ate some blimbings and pamelo (citrus). Hett"A@@ @ @@@@a*@@-s@-n@gh@. Tinus arrived on his way to Kawiri. I was wroth with him for coming, as he claimed that he came to prevent me from going into the interior, as I had planned to do, and everyone was opposed to it. I had planned to go up from Tifu. As if it were his business to stop me from doing a bit of hiking on this little island, if I wanted to. Can't understand why these people always want to prevent you from seeing the interior of their island. Tinus also had other business, which was probably the real cause of his coming. He probably just wanted to be the big hero that brought that "American kid" back. @ @X@@S didn't appreciate that. Feverish again in the night. Wednesday, March 10, 1965. If Tinus couldn't stop me the fever did. Same old story. No place to releive myself. Tried to make it to the beach, but was shouted at by the natives, who have no regard whatsoever for the feelings of others, it seems, at least not a white man's. It became a public affair, and in the frustration and confusion and burninœ anger I couldn't possibly find where I was going. I was so frustrated and driven by their behavior that I took my bag and left. I felt almost insane. I don't think I had ever been treated with less dignity in all my adult life than here in the Buru I loved. (Or thought I loved). No, I still love Buru, but hate humiliation and stupidity. If I was another man there most likely would have been a good fight that day. Their treatment is inhuman, and they seem completely ignorant of their rudeness (I write all this later). I was still trying not to look at whole races of people then, but at individuals. I think I would have swam if I had no other way to get across that bay that day, but a Binongko lad or two took me across in a kole-kole, for which I payed them well. I know of no way you can walk around Tifu Bay. Those sheer cliffs in back are where the ancient Garuda used to live before it was killed by the Chinese hero with the red-hot iron. I passed Tinus on the trail to Kawiri. Raging ""," .11 afternoon at Bert's missing brother's home. Into the night. Young men, Caka and Anis spoke of killing me and making off with the money I had in the night, in the Buru language, evidently not thinking I understood enough to know what they were talking about. I called Amo and told him, and they left the room where they were going to sleep with me that night.(Bert was gone). Then later I got to thinking that Amo was the very one that I shouldn't have talked to about this matter. Sometime after I lay down Caka and Anis returned. I got up and made a scene and brought the thing to the attention of the whole village, thinking that that way they would be afraid to do anything. I said I was going to the Kepala Kampong's and started off walking, even though I couldn't see a thing. I let them bring me back with the stipulation that those two couldn't share the room with me. Thursday, March 11, 1965. Disregarding many protests, I left in Bert's little outrigger for Leksula at about eight this morning. Bert had said I could use it iUBU@ 1965. drank from under the rock, was led quickl@ltle %,fa is hard to @@RCH, l8eB. Still weak this morning. Boat supposed to arrive today. Heard about a skeleton in a cave at Oom Te's plantation today, but couldn't get anyone to show it to me. Oom Te rather afraid because he thinks It's somebody's place of worship. Mid afternoon I heard a perahu was leaving for Ambon just in time to catch it. Oom Chor and Emo brought me out to it in Onko Seng's canoe, and Oom Chor presented me with a fodo of green bananas, for want of anything else he could find on the spur of the moment. Sail was already up, so it was no time but we were under way. We had a good wind, and it was no time before we were off Nal Besi. Our perahu seemed to make excellent time in the following west wind. The name of the juragan is Solisa, and the perahu is Muda-Lawang, from Oki. We were off Wamkana bylmL@"eafternoon, auo, sighting a school of tuna, we steered right through it and the men brought in a lovely cakalang. I was In the cabin during the time, and they were asking for the spear, but I couldn't see it in the darkness. By the time they got the spear they ound they didn't really need it after all as It wasn't a large fish. They landed it without difficulty on the after deck, and from there down the after hatch. A lovely specimen! We made Namrole after nightfall, and anchored there for some time while the crew was on business ashore. I was fortunately invited to share provisions with a fellow passenger. It wasn't very much, but enough to tide us over until we could get something more substantial. Namely our tunafish which by this time was a-cooking under the experienced hand of "Bapa," the old man from Elat in the Kei Islands, up front of the cabin. Me, I crawled up on the cabin roof and fell asleep ""e our supper was prepared, but no sooner had I crawled down to find a cozier spot inside than old "Bapa" figured we might as well go ahead, as those ashore seemed mightily long in arriving tonight. Go ahead we did, and I was deeply thankful for the protein, especially in this forn. Cakalang makes a dish fit for any king, and"Bapa" was not entirely unskilled as chef. We had tuna and boiled kasbi in sauce, and thanking the old man I turned in. (I forgot to mention, but in the provisions of my friend I had gotten some fried puri, a very small fish, perhaps about the size of a large guppy; fried whole, and, to my knowledge, uncleaned. You eat them bones and all, and they're quite delicious. About a handful of these or less, a piece of kaladi root, and some sliced greenpapayavegetable.) ----" My fellow passengers are five policemen, among them Comendant Solisa, Sukota (who went to bring me back from Amboti that time), and a Bandanese named Ahmad. They are all bound for Ambon for further studies. Herets of the Koperasi was also aboard. When the moon rose, the men stirred themselves up and beat the gong. That didn't seem to bring any response at all from the ones ashore for whom it was intended! and I drifted off again to the words of someone that he was going ashore to fetch them. Next thing I knew we were pulling out of NamRole harbour and on our way-]t, ing a bardaya we downed the mainsail in the middle of the night but nothing happened so we upped sail again and I drifted off once more. Sometime in the night a vessel passed us on its way westward. Tuesday, March 23, 1965. Mid-afternoon I was at Leksula, and found a perahu was leaving for Ambon just in time to catch it. Oom Kor and Emo brought me out to the perahu in Onco Seng's canoe, and Kor presented me with a fodo of unripe bananas for want of anything else. Sail was already up, so it was no time but we were under way. We had a good wind, and it was no time but we were off NalBesi. Our perahu seems to make excellent time in the following west wind. The name of the juragang is Solisa, and the name of the perahu is "Muda-Lawang," from Oki. As we progressed, we were off Wamkana by late afternoon, and sighting a school of tuna, we steered right through the centre, and immediately we got a strike. I was in the cabin at the time. They wanted the spear, but I couldn't see it. Anyhow, by the time they got the spear out, they found it was a smaller one, and they landed it without difficulty on the deck, and from there down the after-hatch. A beautiful specimen! We reached Namrole after nightfall, and anchored for sometime, as the crew had business to conduct there. I was fortunate in receiving an invitation to share provisions of a felow passenger. Not very much, but something to tide us over til we could get something more substantial, namely our tuna, which at this time was a-cooking under the clever hand of "Bapa," from Kei, Elat, up front. Well, me, I crawled up top the cabin and fell asleep ere our tuna was ready, but no sooner had I crawled down to find a cozier spot in the cabin than old "Bapa" figured we might as well go ahead, as those from shore seemed to be mightily long in arriving. Well, go ahead we did, and I was mightily thankful for the protein, especially in this form. Cakalang, this particular form of tuna, makes a dish fit for any king, and old Bapa was not entirely unskilled as chef. We had tuna and tapioca in sauce, and thanking old "Bapa", I turned in. I forgot to mention, but in the provisions of my fellow passenger, I had gotten some fried pure, a very small fish, perhaps about the size of a large guppy, fried whole and uncleaned, to my knowledge. You eat them bones and all, and they're quite delicious. About a handful of these or less, a piece of coladium root, and some green sliced papaya vegetable. My fellow passengers are five policemen bound for Ambon for further studies. When the moon rose, the men roused themselves, and beat the gong, to which those on shore didn't seem to respond, and I drifted off again to the words of someone that they were going to go ashore and call them. Next thing I knew, we were pulling out of Namrole harbour, and were on our way. Fearing a Barat-Daya, we downed the main-sail later in the night, but getting none of the expected squall, we upped sail again, and I drifted off once more. Sometime in the night, a vessel passed on its way westward. Wednesday, March 24, 1965. I awoke this morning to find us becalmed between Pulau Oki and the coast of Buru. Early morning and the sun was making a yellow-orange splotch in the eastern sky ahead. Someone started to row, and the wind slowly rose from east and northward. There is a Chinese fellow named Oki. We punted our way into the mouth of Oki Stream, right through the surf. It was high water, and they grounded her on the sand in the estuary, a fine pond of fresh water where we could wash and bath. I believe there are two streams that empty into it. I followed our gang up to the village, walking along the rocky shore and then cutting straight in at the end of the compound. At the village I met Al Katiri, a dark Arab from Hyderabad. Listened to radio, and heard of astronaut's landing. Nother on ranger. After coffee at Al Katiri's, we went on down the way and had something to eat for breakfast at the house of a man named Umar Lesnusa, on the landward side of the road, just about at the tip end of the village. Oki is just another Buru coast village, situated right on the beach. Finding that my police friends had left I made my way back to Al Katiri's, who said that they were in conference with the owner of the perahu to determine whether or not we could charter it for our journey to Ambon. I had been warned before getting on at Leksula that there was a possibility of the trip being cancelled because the owner, who lives at Oki, had not heard of the trip yet, and might want to use the perahu for another purpose. So I walked on to the west end of the village--the opposite end from Umar's--and there I found my police friends in the owner's house with no solution to the question of our departure. From there I was called back to have lunch at Al Katiri's, where I enjoyed rice and chicken soup and the conversation of my host. I have known Arab hospitality to be indeed gracious. We spoke of Arabia and the Middle East. Al Katiri speaks and reads Arabic, and made a trip to Hyderabad around 1935. The people of this Muslim village have been much better as regards manners, and haveN't stared so much at me, etc. A bardaya swept through the village just as I returned in the afternoon. An old house nearly fell on me, but I made it to the safety of an open house, one of the only sound structures nearby, and from there I stood watching. It was a violent wind, and it blasted us with sand. It swept rain and sand along together in level sheets till I had sand in my teeth. Pieces of atap got up and walked along on the tips of their leaves. One girl went a little crazy in the storm. I didn't see, but they said she ran jumping in the wind. I ate dinner and slept with the "gang" at Umar's house. We had sinoli and fish and it was all very delicious. I have a great fondness for sinoli, which is sago, baked or fried with grated coconut. It goes extremely well with dried or baked fish. Thursday, March 25, 1965. Breakfast at Umar's and then back to the perahu, where Bapa Hassim had slept. There I stayed to watch the baggage. I received an invitation to coffee from Mrs. Al Katiri, who had come to wash at the stream, but was unable to fulfill, as I had to watch goods. When "Bapa" Hassim returned, I bathed, and took some bananas with me to Mrs. Al Katiri. She bade me to stay for lunch, after my due apologies for not being able to arrive in time for coffee. Al Katiri was gong to Wam Sisi to weigh copra. By this time we all knew that the owner of the perahu on which we came did not intend to let us off to Ambon, as he intended to use her to transport a bride to Seid, North Buru, where a wedding is shortly to take place. I returned to the perahu with Solisa and Heretz. Spent the afternoon in conversation aboard the perahu. Heretz, Komandant Solisa, Andi (of the Koprasi, the same fellow that was at Bert's house for babi-kecap that day if I remember correctly), and myself. Part of my bananas were ripe by now, so we ate bananas and later, some peanuts from Andi, boiled by Solisa. I went ashore ahead of them in order not to get stuck in the dark, and was detained again for coffee by Mrs. Al Katiri. Then off after the lads (being led in the dark) to Umar's, where I entertained a large audience with an ukulele. I couldn't see them, but they were gathered outside and wouldn't let me stop till our hostess had to drive them away. She was impatient over the meal, which I didn't know was ready. After dinner, we were forced to listen to a terrific long monolog by an elderly recent arrival from Selatan Daya. I was finally invited to sleep, for which I was extremely grateful, and our entertainer was finally forced to give up for lack of listeners. Friday, March 26, 1965. Breakfast at Umar's. My beloved sinoli and fish again. Sukota strummed the ukulele awhile, until a manteri arrived and Solissa and Heretz left with him eastward to search for perahus. The rest of the gang and I left for Kampong Oki Baru, where I rested after conversation with a traveled young Chinese from Red China, while they all proceded to play card dominoes for money with our host and another fellow. I awoke for lunch, which turned out to be pretty good. It was pounded maize boiled like rice, vegetables, and even a little goat meat and broth, which seemed very good to me. After this they all returned to their game and me to my nap. When I awoke this time they were gone, and my hostess was sewing. A good storm was brewing in the mountains, and I excused myself after thanking my host and hostess, to return to the perahu. During the afternoon, I continued writing my journal aboard the perahu, where "Bapa" had left me two bananas. I also relieved myself and bathed. But I Was bothered by the Kei boys, so I left the boat for Oki Lama with all my goods in a drizzle. 'Twas then that I was detained again by Mrs. Al Katiri for more Coffee with ginger. I had Supper at Umars, followed by a horrible night of battle with some sort of infinitesimal gnats or fleas, which stung fiercely, and seemed to penetrate even to my inner clothing. Oki Lama is on the east side of the stream, and Oki Baru on the west. I find that by far the most interesting of our party are the two that have departed for Pohon Batu and Wamsisi in search of a perahu, namely Heretz and Solisa. The rest are rather dull. Saturday, March 27, 1965, Oki. Frankly, I feel miserable from the hopelessness of our plight here. Four days now. Read five chapters from Leviticus with many interruptions. Slept. We had chicken, vegetables, and rice last night, and rice and sugar for breakfast this morning. I still feel my malaria a bit, I think, and the lack of sleep from my experience of the night. I had to speak harshly to some young people who came to disturb me in the morning. The afternoon was extremely dull. I went walking in the village and down to the stream. Was detained again on my way by Mrs. Al Katiri. Coffee and a lecture on air travel by Devin. I was overjoyed along toward evening when Andi returned from the beach with news that two lone figures were approaching, but still too distant to identiFy. HeretzandSolisa arrived with news that they had found a perahu, but even smaller than MudaLawang, which already seemed pretty small to me. Heretz seemed done in, but Solissa looked fit as a fiddle. Sunday, March 28, 1965. Went with my police comrades to Pohon Batu. They on foot, and I arriving a little ahead by outrigger with the baggage. There were porpoises frollicking and jumping clean out of the smooth water near us on the way, and music drifting out to us from the Kei Islander lumber camps. Immediately after unloading I returned along the beach to the estuary to inspect our perahu. I felt extremely disgusted, as usual, by the conduct of the villagers. One lad from Ambelau even approached me with "word ! which I immediately detected to be typical native lies, that a ship had arrived at WamSisi. You can imagine my disgust and frustration. These little "goodieS are the things that make the natives really hard to love! The perahu I found to be much too small. After my bath in the stream, a couple of the crew members came by and they said the perahu was really of only 2400 kilograms capacity, and that they were loading 2 cubic meters of wood, and 100 tumangs of sago. If we chartered the boat, the total of men on board would be 12. Furthermore, according to them, there was no place to sleep. I could see for myself that the winds were uncertain. What to do if caught in either calm or bardaya? On my way down to Pohon Batu from Oki I was privileged to see porpoises at play. This was after the tanjong. They leapt, they ran in schools, they snorted and they spouted. The sun was fierce. Returning toward the village, I found a shaded spot on the beach, and finding it to be the Sabbath, and no one in sight, I knelt to pray. On rising I saw a man approaching, and made haste to act normally. When he drew near, his heart apparently failed him for fear, as he took off down the beach at a gallop! I shouted "Bara heka!" and he looked back for a moment, but nothing could stop him. I believe he took refuge among a party that was approaching from farther down the beach to push the perahu in at high water. I had grown a little apprehensive as the man was armed with a parang. Further on I was greeted by one of the group who said he was the juragan on the perahu and from Ambon. Hassim, I think he said, but am not certain. Arriving at the house of our host at the village of PohonBatu, I was immediately shown to my fill of sinoli and broiled fish. The fish was not tasty, and had a strong flavor, like that of the raja baor. It was after this repast with Solisa and Sukota that I made known my decision not to leave with this small perahu. At first Sukota wanted to return to Leksula with me! but by pressure and persuasion he decided to go on with his companions. We were invited to a sort of reception at a local Muslim wedding, and went up for a ripe banana, some waji, and a slice of tapioca pudding with a glass of tea. After this my comrades insisted that it was absolutely essential that I take with me a letter from them to the village chiefs of Meserete from Oki to Nal Besi, stating that I was to receive their best assistance. To this I agreed providing I should bear the note on my own person. The reason for this stipulation was so that I would have more liberty and not be bothered by some native letter bearer and thus be continually detained and treated like a captive. At long last I was handed the letter and was free to depart for Oki with the two perahus that had brought the baggage of the police. I was fortunate on several counts. First, before my departure I was presented with a boiled egq, which would give me protein for my journey. Also, I was not required to paddle on the return to Oki as there were only two paddles, and the two natives could not bear to sit idle while I paddled. This gave me the opportunity to get some rest. Then, I was put down on the Oki Baru side of the stream, and allowed to set out on foot on my own. I seized this opportunity to gain my freedom, and, after buying some matches at the Chinese shop and asking there if no one were leaving for Leksula, I was on my way alone to WanToto. Approaching Leku I found a Butonese perahu of eight tons lying at anchore, and a group of people on the shore. They told me that the juragan had gone for his bath farther down the beach, and I found him returning a long way on. He informed me that the perahu was bound direct for ambon, but there was no more room aboard as there were already close to 40 people! I made haste to continue my journey, and felt the blessing of God again when I was presented with a whole pineapple by a kind young man who followed along to lead the way to the stream where the juragan was bathing. His name was Gabriel. At the stream I was given a knife and peeled my pineapple and ate half while talking to the Kei boys, who were very pleasant. Gabriel was one of them, a Protestant boy from Kei. Everyone seemed confident that I could make it to Wantoto by nightfall, and I had felt the leading of the Lord in that direction from the beginning, so that I wasn't even too disappointed when I found that the perahu was too crowded to take me on to Ambon. I felt a terrific desire to be in church at Waenono that evening, and to see Yunus Manuhutu, who had gone to and graduated from the bible school at Kate-Kate since my departure for the U.S. in 1959. I therefore walked right past Leku. I passed many people. One of them was a lonely tribesman right out of the ancient Buru past, complete with spear, machete, and batik headdress, the latter of which made him all the more striking and brought back nostalgic memories of old Bacian. I thought of the beach between Babang and Kampong Baru and of The old man with the ring. I approached him from behind singing or whistling a little so that he turned round to see who I was before I got up to him, and thus avoided surprising him by my unexpected appearance, which might have ended in disaster for me. His lips and teeth were covered with red from chewing beetle nut, and his skin had that sort of disease called kaskado, which is common among them. It is a fungal infection causing whiteness, dryness, and flakiness accompanied by a characteristic odor. And if I remember correctly (in 2004), on his wrist was a bracelet of black akar bahar coral. He did not run, but greeted me with a smile. Another sat gazing at the sea, and bade me hurry as night would be falling. He said he was there to work his kebun. The vegetation and general character of the beach struck me as being very similar to that of the east coast of Johore, Malaya, and I felt a surge of joy at the association. A longing for that tremendous freedom of enlightenment that a man can feel in the vast wildernesses of Malaya--those long, empty miles of beach, beach, and more beach and sand. In some places the going was a bit hard, with only rocks and pebbles, but most of the way was long stretches of open sand. I saw numerous pandanus plants along the beach, here and there a paku-paku palm, and some casuarina trees which reminded me of Waimanalo, Oahu. At last I reached a point where sand ended and cliff began. These rocks, I could see, terminated in the farthest promontory visible during my trek along the shore. It was here that I grew somewhat apprehensive. I saw no village, and night was fast approaching. At the end of the sand was a small, half-dead stream, where I took a chance and drank of the brackish water. It looked very unhealthy, but I felt I had better drink while I could, as I was none too sure where I would be spending the night. The sand near the stream was lovely, and looking away back eastward from the cliffs there was a delightful open field, all parched yellow-gold by the sun, and a curious metal object standing upright near the shore. It seems to have been some sort of belt drive wheel with axle, rusting and of respectable size. The wheel part had several rims which got smaller and smaller toward the end, forming a sort of comical shape with the apex stuck in the ground. All of this formed a neat little cove, and there, lying at anchor was a perahu about the size of MudaLawang or a little bit larger. I shouted to the men on board, and they told me they were headed for Leksula. I couldn't hear them very well, but they didn't seem interested in taking me aboard. Instead they seemed to say that there was a path to Waenono nearby, and that the village wasn't far. Also something about the path leading along the dead stream. I went back and found it, but not without some difficulty. Then I thanked God for His help. The trail led through the field and down across numerous small bridges over the dead stream, which was apparently the same one I had drunk from, and into the stream itself. There were numerous rustlings in the brush, and I feared that someone must be running from me, but it was evidently just some animal of the forest. From there up through a wood, and all along the trail quite clear. Darkness was fast gathering now, and I caught a large sliver in one heel. Then I could hear the surf ahead, and was soon out on the beach at Labuan. There, where trail ended and beach began I paused to remove my sliver, but could only get a part of it because the whole thing was pretty rotten. After finding people and questioning them, I finally arrived at the house of Yunus Manuhutu under the direction of two lads who spoke to me in Buru, with which language I am still somewhat awkward. Yunus didn't recognize me at first, and to me he also looked a bit strange with those clothes in those surroundings. He was too much like a Buru man. I was somewhat disappointed in Waenono. There was no meeting on Sunday evenings. When I asked Yunus about this he said that there wasn't enough kerosene for the lamp. When I asked why not in the afternoon he said the people would still be working. This after all my yearning to be in a Pentecostal service that evening. Yunus had to lead me to Waenono Stream to bathe. They have a delightful stream there, and it is against tradition for people to relieve themselves in it. But we had to bathe with our clothes on because there were no separate parts for men and women. Then back to his house and some roasted corn, as I had requested food before our departure for the bath. It was dark when we got home. I soon developed a strong dislike for Yunus when I found that he wouldn't speak to me in Ambonese, and I found the way he expressed himself at times to be unbearable. In all the years that I had known him I had always disliked Yunus a little, but thought that by now experience would have changed all that. Not so. I was disgusted with him. Yunus had changed, but not the way that I wanted him to be changed. To me he seemed to have become a rather black "Little Lord Fontleroy." These are all personal first-impressions, however, and mean nothing. But oh that Malay! How it irked me! We talked by lamplight until someone called us to Daud's house for dinner. There, to my delight, we were treated to a delectable dish of chicken cooked In coconut milk. Along with that we had papeda made from cassava and boiled cassava. Sleep was not long in coming, and after a few words with a fellow named Samson, I was in dreamland. Monday, march 29, 1965, Waenono. It seems Yunus is building a canoe, and when I arose Yunus was already gone off to work without breakfast. I prayed, washed at the bamboo water containers, and read from Leviticus. Just as I was about through, Yunus arrived back and said we should be off to breakfast. We gorged ourselves on boiled sweet potatoes, and my disgust for Yunus deepened when I saw the way he horded the fish that Ali's son had brought earlier that morning after he had gone off to work. I despise this one Buru custom as it is. They share the ways of the Punjabis in separating the sexes during mealtime. The men eat first while tue women serve. Everything on the table is supposed to be for the men. If anything is left, the women and children eat it later, usually in the kitchen. There Yunus was, sitting across from me and demanding that his fish be broiled. the first time they brought it in he said it was still too raw, but it was all right the second time, after the cook had followed his instructions. The fish was placed near his plate, and he invited me to join. I became aware that he did not request the participation of our host, and that our host did not indulge. I offered some to Samson, our host, and he said, "yes", but never seemed to respond, and ere we left Yunus had given orders that the other fish be kept for lunch. Yunus had already been planning to go to Leksula, he said, so he decided to accompany me. We decided to go tomorrow, so Yunus, Samson and I went to borrow Ali's kole-kole. Yunus and I went home first, and coming out found Samson on his way to meet us. Yunus ordered him to go back and take off his good clothes as he would be helping with the work. Samson rejoined us on the beach with a walking stick in his hand, and we were all off together for Labuan, which is but a short way up the beach to the east. There we found the Protestant guru (a friend of Yunus') gone. Also Ali, but this was to be expected as he was working on a canoe in the forest. I was introduced to some of the "Sidang" folk there, and sat in the house of one from Wai Temon for awhile. Yunus later told me that he had had trouble with hobatan. Sickness had struck his wife and child, but both were cured when he got rid of his witchcraft. It seems that he had run off with his wife, who, incidentally was quite pretty, and had gotten hold of some magic cloth as protection against her relatives. Yunus returned and we followed him up a fading trail through the kebuns in search of Ali and his canoe. It was then that I discovered for the first time that Yunus is hard of hearing. Perhaps this will go to explain some of the insolence in his manner. He could not hear the men working on the canoe in the forest; and when he finally did, he couldn't tell from what direction the sound was coming. I could plainly distinguish the hollow drumming of axe against canoe hull. I corrected him direction-wise and we retraced our steps and entered a grove of bamboo after some shouts and hoots, and I had difficulty making my way through the many obstacles we encountered there. We found Ali (the Butonese who had sent the fish by his son) together with several Buru men busy at work on a medium sized kole-kole. Ali was good-looking, bright, and very conversational. He is F Butonese, but born in Ambon. According to him he has never been to Buton in his life. He spoke of his travels to Biak and other spots, and of leprosy on Bacian. As a lad he put to sea on a Butonese perahu and traveled to many places In the archipelago. He claimed that his Dutch master in New Guinea had loved him very much, and that after testing his loyalty by placing money under the bed, etc., had entrusted to him the keys to all his goods. He said that his master had taken him with him as far as Ambon, and had wanted to stow him away in a locker to Holland. Ali readily agreed to let us have his kole-kole for a couple of days at any price the Guru (Manuhutu) could offer. And so, after Yunus had gotten a little more instruction in canoe building, and Samson had taken a few swings with the axe, we took our leave and returned again to Waenono. I releived myself In the stream on the way near the beach. It seemed alarming to me the way these men could work so close together across the canoe hull and not get hurt. They were still in the first stages, that is, hollowing out the hull by axe, when we came. Returning to Waenono it was still somewhat early for lunch. I spoke a bit harshly to Yunus, who is younger than Samson. On the beach yunus asked if I would like to drink some coconutwater. I said I wouldn't mind if I did, but was a little lazy when it came to climbing the tree. He said never to mind that. He would climb or ask someone in the village to. Well, I was sitting at his table writing in my diary now, and "someone" turned out to be Samson. This I could not take, and so I flatly told him that if he wanted to drink coconut water to go climb for himself. At this both left the room, and, after inspecting the coconut trees outside, decided that there were no green coconuts in the vicinity. They returned and sat down. Then Samson left. Yunus immediately dove for a ripe banana. Funny. Samson was back before Yunus could finish it, and so he had to offer him one.(He hadn't offered one to me, either). Yunus gave also to his puppy, Ambon, but still none for me. I rrote on, and then, pausing, looked round and said how about one of those ripe bananas? "Oh, yes, yes,"and before I could reach them, Yunus had broken one off for me. Someone followed suite, and helped himself to one. It was about lunch time, and we were all a bit empty. I seem to have an exceptionally ravenous appetite in this country, evidently due to the low-protein diet. and my we were called to lunch, and there was Yunus again with his fish--boiled this time--over near his plate. @elll deer m toward the center of the table was a delicious dish of dried meet boiled in coconut milk, of which I partook with my fill of sweet potatoes. ?hes I was forced to take even more by our gracious host, who did likewise to Yunus despite his fish. I ate this second helping with papeda. The coconut sauce was absolutely delicious, as was that served with the chicken at Daud's house. As we were eating, two men "happened in" who I immediately took for Gentiles. I felt extreme disgust at their prying eyes while I was awkwardly sucking that ill-made cassava-root papeda, which was much, much too soft. They took their leave, but we were to be graced again with the presence of the followers of the prophet ere the day was over. We had not long reached the house of Yunus when he saw them coming. He also felt a dislike for these creatures, and said that should they come in we should entertain them in the outer room, lest they become interested in his personal possessions. Well, me, I left the pleasure of their company to Yunus, as I was busy with my diary at the time. Yunus manifested tremendous reluctance as a host. Came in and bade me appear once, then twice. The first time I persuaded him to entertain his own guests, but the second time he simply refused to go. It seems that I was obliged to cut my writing short and give the Guru a helping hand. I had no desire to indulge in idle conversation with these fellows, so I made my appearance Bible in hand, and without further adoo began to preach from John. Someone brought roasted peanuts in, and they ate while they listened. Some were attentive, others disinterested. All grew weary of my monologue as the peanuts gave out, and one by one they found themselves occupations, until only about one was left. He stayed on and listened until I excused myself to go into the room and do some writing. I was thankful for the opportunity to testify, and indeed, left blessed with my efforts. So@r nQ-,@c@ their he@@F in understanding, and I sincerely hope and pray the@:thos:isee@isosm w@l@rnot return empty. I read from John, Romans and Galations. I also related to them the parables of the "Ten Virgins", and the one about the son of man coming like a thief. They were evidently from Namrole. Later in the day I went with Yunus to see his canoe. This one he was building didn't seem like as good a job as the one sitting in his house, which for some reason beyond my comprehension had never Yunus was back soon and wanted me to go with him to get Ali's kole-kole, so off we went in the gathering gloom to Ali's house at Labuan. There Ali insisted that we join him for supper, and Yunus didn't seem wont to refuse. You see, Ali had also brought in two very large bubara, and the *@0 fish he had sent Yunus were only a small part of his catch. Eat we did! Only regret was that his wife boiled the fish instead of frying them. I could barely eat all that was offered, there was so much. I was shocked at first by the large chunk served me by Yunus, but in the end I ate even more. We had cassava root and cassava papeda with the fish. It seemed that despite (or with) all this two of our goals were never fulfilled. One was to get a definite price out of Ali, and the other was to get home before it got too dark for me to see. It seems that for the former, however, there was a remedy. Our polite conversation had revealed that Ali wanted some #4 or #5 fishooks, and Yunus knew that the normal rent of the kole-kole was Rp500. Ali wanted Rp500 worth of #4 or #5 fishooks! I never got a bath this night as everything was already too dark for me to see ere we left Ali's, and I didn't feel like stumbling after Yunus to the stream after rowing and dragging the kole-kole. Yunus also felt discouraged at the prospect and decided to follow my example. Yunus went to tell Samson that we had eaten elsewhere. When he returned he said that Samson was feeling dizzy, and that he said that it seemed to him as if the house were spinning round. Yunus was reluctant to go to Leksula without one more for the return trip, so he got a lad named Yohanis to go with us. Tuesday, March 30, 1965. Waenono to Leksula. I thought that Yunus had set his alarm, but he later told me that it wasn't working. At any rate, it was nearly five oclock by his clock ere we got up. He has no way of setting his clock, so there is no telling what time it really was. It was probably sometime after five by the time we got under way, and that was late. I was already beginning to see. The weather was sparkling clear, and I knew that it was going to be a scorcher. we paddled straight across the reefs for WaeTina Point across the bay, and I found the bay to be filled with reefs, over far to the point which our canoe could barely pass. Indeed, we even struck bottom once or twice. Approaching WaeTina we got a fresh breeze off the land. It is the tail end of the downdraft that comes swirling off the mountains and down the WaiTina in the late evening and early mornings. We upped our "sail"which was nothing more than a little piece of a kain or sarong of red checkered cloth, ingeniously strung up on a framework of bamboo ri@@ing. It wasn't small for a kain, but It was extremely small for our large kole-kole, and I wouldn't doubt but what the little good it did was more trouble than it was worth. I was very limited in my ability to paddle as I had the control of the thing, and I must confess that most of the time just gave up. I asked for something to eat, as we had had nothing so far, but Yunus felt that we should wait. The wind carried us far out into the sea, so that we passed the mouth of the WaiTina at a distance. I asked for food again and this time Yunus agreed. Breakfast was our provisions of sliced sweet-potatoes boiled in a bamboo. Yunus divided the banboo into four pieces, and we shared three and left the other. i knew that there were more ripe bananas somewhere, but didn't ask for them. After this, our land breeze died down, and Yunus steered in for Tanjung Batutulis, where they tell me that there is an inscription that looks Arabic. Yohannes turned out to be just about useless as a hand at the paddle, and Yunus wasn't too much better. Yunus, however, was steady, and he kept urging Yohannes to paddle, as he was continually resting. I protested and cautioned Yunus not to forget the lad's youth, and not to look at him but just to take care of each man his own responsibility. he had been trolling all along, but after Batutulis we t r At last Yunus got the line untangled, only to show himself up as a poor paddler in the center seat. They think that it is such an important job to do the steering, and yet I would rather have a little child steer so that I can be free to concentrate all my efforts on the task of paddling, which is what really gives the boat its propulsion. We got to a bay where some perahus lay at anchor, and by now It was really hot. Yunus was thirsty. He directed us to a place where water came out of a rock, but we found all the water to be brackish, perhaps due to the tide. A Butonese was there washing his clothes, but he knew of no perahus to Ambon, he said. Finding no green coconuts there either, we set off in our canoe once more. We put in at a grove but were warned against indiscreet climbing of coconuts by a rather unhappy female voice from among the trees. The second time we didn't stop until we saw a man walking along the shore, who willingly agreed to let us have some drinking nuts. Yohannes was up a tree before you could have said Jack Robinson backwards, and we were soon quenching our thirst with coconut water and enjoying the fresh soft meat. we had a little trouble with the canoe, which shipped a little water in the small surf.?@herb@@tdm@Yas _of chunks of sharp coral, and pretty hard on her bottom. Also, in while we were asking the man if awhile as he was winding the Iln- we could climb some coconuts. I had asked about _Ule bananas before this, and we had each had one, and found them to be rather green. the other two were ripening in the sun. Before we left we found the other part of our breakfast, which Yohannes had stored up in front without Yunus or me knowing. This we devided and shared. We left refreshed, and coasted almost all the way to Kase without bringing in any more fish. Somewhere along I had thrown the second grouper back when Yunus brought it in, as it was too awfully small. From near Kase we headed out for Cape Kabat. I was surprised to see how large Nalbesi looked, with its mosque in the center. Yunus estimates the population at one thousand. If that be so, then according to native estimates it would be larger than Leksula, which they told me had only seven hundred. I feel that both must have many more than this. Maybe these figures were correct sometime way back before the war. I don't know, but by the looks of things it must be different now. The Indonesians think of the size of a village in land area rather than in terms of population, and foreigners are often confused. We passed between two gorgeous little islets and the coast, which was now nothing but rock wall. The rock begins somewhere after Nalbesi and continues all the way to Kabat Haat. On one of the islets--the eastward of the two--there was even a low patch and, facing the coast, a little stretch of sandy beach! The other was typical South Buru rock wall all the way round. We hugged the cliffs now, and I was amazed at how the sea would be deep blue in places right up to the rock wall. What awful depths must lie below. As if the southern mountains of a larger Buru had simply broken off and sunk! We passed the entrance to a cave. It could hAve been the one they tell about in Leksula. The one that is connected to a hole inland, where the villagers claim to have seen big fish swimming. It was about noon or so when we rounded Kabat Haat islet and headed across the bay for the town of Leksula. The sun was so hot that Yunus kept getting too close trying to find shelter under the jutting brows of rock cliff. Over the aeons the sea has hollowed out a deep scar in the rock face where its mity billows churn and thunder during the east monsoon. The hot sun! the usual throng at Leksula. I rebuked them and tried to drive i off, almost continually. Oh, would that my day's adventure had ended here! But no! I took a letter from Heretz up to Bert's. They had just finished eating, but there was still some left so they asked me to eat there. After lunch I returned home to Oom Chor's and then went down for a swim. While I was still in the water, behold, B.O.#130 arrives ciOuS associations. Then there was this other little skinny fellow over by the rail (Michael, I later learned, a Russian Jew). To avoid lengthy descriptions, he looked to me very much like that "Maynard" sidekick of Dhobi Gillis' in "The Many Loves". A short little fellow. The boat was very crowded, and the crowd very noisy, and it was getting a bit hard for one even to hear himself think. I had swung up out of the waters and along the decaying rails on the starboard side. It seemed that the little one tried to approach, but the crowd ing around a lad with a difficulty who was standing on the outside of the railing too, and asked in my native tongue if they spoke any English. The little one said, "some." He must be somewhat younger than me, and seemed a little bit fidgetty. I said "Welcome to Leksula", but he didn't understand, perhaps because of all the noise. His hand was at his ear. I repeated, and he said, "Oh, yes. Thank you." 1 s@oald --@@1 I hak a@ready gs#$ @ @ the information I could out of the crew, eAfl2'lni @@e so, finding en open sp ac@/r dove in and swam ashore. They said that s@@ way I walked on up to Chor's house and rinsed off at the well, joking the while about my two "relatives". Then I went up to Tinus' place, V1+@ bo@@ where Tante Yo Gaspers and two young women were preparing to depart @e@p@@el late to make it there before dark. iqed. S-@,@ba y's darkest hour ar@ It wasn't untill after all this that todl qed. Feeling fresh and clean, and figuring that our two Russians had also had time to get themselves settled down, I decided to go pay them a friendly visit. I was the only other European in Leksula then, and it seemed the proper thing to do. I learned that they were at the residence of the Asisten Wedana, down at the west end of the village. I strolled down, my hands in my pockets, and found that the AWE's house was the big one on piles, near the big baringin tree. As I approached, my eyes made out the two Russians sitting on the wide varandah. I had to scold the following crowd very severely, and even turn on them physically ere they would leave me alone. For some reason I didn't want to make this scene with a mob of giggling idiots at my heels, even if they were just kids. Hands still in my pockets, I drew near in a leasurely fashion, my har and as I was climbing the steps I bade our two "friends" good evening in English. I cannot now recall if I had the oppertunity to speak to the others in English or not, but the AWE was to waste no words of cordiality on me. At first I thought that surely he must be joking, as he said, "I nearly sent and had you arrested." "But why", I wondere@. "You did not report your presence @ere to me:" "But..,I reported to ever@ "ffice.." I be@an to count on the fin@ers of my left hand with my rlght, "AWE, Police.., Oh! but it must hrve been thst my lord is newly arrived:" (I rememberi iat the I had been told of the ch@nge of A@Es since my arrival). --As if this might settle everythin@! --but : Id the little one was putting i The conversation was in indonesla8n, a] in a word of support and a nod for the AWE here and there. Apqe@rantly glad of the chanc@ to help disgrace me. "I don't care: This i he bellowed, "Are you not aware that you your hsnds in your pockets?" ;t: 1 are standinœ before the œovernment? Now! In the name of the law: 1 e Take your hands from your pockets:" That was enouvh for me! I was no illiterate Buruese to be lickinp * up the sod from thls little jackass' heels: I gaye him cold eyes and chin! turned my back on the lot and started walking down the steps. Pauslng half way I turned and said, "If you will be like that with me, " I must be taking my leave." I then bowed and turned to the little Russian and said In English,. xcuse me." Then left. Walking alon@, tsking my time, hands still In pockets, @owar@"h08@". A couple of lœttle boys walked up with me and asked @bout my trip to Oki. They were quite.polite, and I took them for the children of my companions, as we were In the vicinity of the Police b@rracks, so I related all. @d by a @L.;,.-,- @ asked them the same of the AWK and was answe t. When@ sked wh@ " @i@@"@e;$-P@ @@who was a@proaching @ house on@-anding. They toldme I said that he:and I had had a little misunder. that his name mas Palapesi. The boys looked 'round and said that there were people followinp from the WAB's. I said, "Let them follow:" Actuall@ld pan@c as I turned Bnd jitter3, and now my e@prehensi3n turned into m: and saw a rather large group of people following, but still some dis ;@iRCH 31, 1965. the on the beacA Letween the red lamp to the east and the rocKs u@wl point to the west. This lDtter dre@ immediDte laughter. Date mgnin. "Pengumumun!" Anyone wishing to embark for #mbon b@ Our B.0, motor-vessel must report first at the office of the AWE, and all never luggage must be checked by thePolice. i'n. Well, showed up; As you can ima@ine, all this sent my mind reellng aE@ if this little dried rot of an AWE wanted to make trouble for me I would escape toNamlea or, @ Geor@e, if all else failedl@muldpaddle Too weary .yself to Ambon in some outrlFger canoe: but no..! to bathe/ 365. l@ered m ,. :s book on the Dead Se2 Scrolls. the evening scrrice. Keri "ske@ mf ko speFk ting. d @@ais. If I remem- lis morning. The Spirit mov2 @ said 'd2y th8t I spoke about Yom and @eml9 @@ ' tNo th@t I knew of th2t hed that t e of oall ;'s life (not in exactly those words' I think "ok to just cry, but to repll@ take the work of st8lled. Luke Went to Ambon with Eill. the crr "@te2. x*ension on my me E three month nd when I turn gr@tion @av me by my nickname, @ . Ilow called It wsœ James. Me Is the man to be 2 K2lnFtu"soqethin E st r@@ty. Tre@ted him to et. Funny him. He warned me about being dlscr@ We love you"9 and yet he knows thFt tbe commu elt he was ne?r salvation. @ome to Kate2 by l;mornincservice.Teteistheevcning. in i - ch tod@S- lovely mittlr tnc afternoon. Swam in a fresh. 11 ne"* ike Water sparkling clear and rTcrb@n@ strenm.torn @own where it used to flow the forest all hi@eout long ago. Sa@- W@cre I was building ti@@t ' Miki@nus' guitar in the k2mPon@. ' Climbed canarium tree- Had to hurry down tor party today. ickeu up b@ lumbed ride and found I had oeen -found out 1@ 2 @@ In@onesian talking to me OU@ ;Nussian of@yledu9 a wordor two ofSuruese. id has even plc lan all the way in inese. We t@lked in Indones lieve in Told him I was sorry th@t he dld9'u ue ; sorry that I @id. He is a Jew- He is noN remember correctly he was FoinF in @o@Fy to s pl@ne bool@ing. There were also pnother Bussian P- In town I saw Eng, InEgu, @se Bert Solissa. "' ent to Tulehu and foun@ an outri@Fer ild Lis in the woods this ' I met Oom 010 If. Life difficult in that way. to @elieve mysf t liev@n@ myself. Had to eœcaTe In@v @L@ iv@vi * " from the watching eyes of the children, who r' ow for about an hour, mFybe, after I was out n a Very dry evening service. an@ costomS. The lan@un@e is @en@, but a@e 'ds. rewember a few wo@ 1965. F@IL, Friday, April 23, 1965. Tante Susi is gone to Aboru. I tried to find the stone altar in the forest alone but failed. I found it later with Netong's help. Negotiating with @nja to see the "3um2@ tu?", or nd@t @;wse. (On the top is a pencil drawing of a square stone slab, rough coral, fossilized, cut or uncut(?) mounted on four smooth and rounded piles. --Aman Ira, Oma, Haruku. Below is a drawing of a square indicating a nutmeg grove with the north arrow pointing to the slab). I was extremely priveleged today to find a stone monument, still apparantly intact, in the hills behind Oma. It reminded me somewhat of the stone in front of the Baeleo at Saparua. It was a slab of coral,about four feet square, mounted on four pillars of brownish stone, which seemed to be hard. From the appearance of them, the four pillars were cut and smoothed to an oval shape (at least so from the visible ends). However, to determine if these were oval, it would naturally be necessary to see not only the visible ends, but also the ends hidden in the earth). I mean that the pillars, above the ground, looked like one end of an oval stone. The slab was of rough, fossilized coral; chalky and perforated, and it would be hard to tell if it were in its natural shape. One pillar had been toppled,and the slab sat tilted and askew as I found it, but from the position of the other three pillars, it was evident that the slab had originally been more or less oriented to the four cardinal points, one side facing each point. Later, discussing the monument with Olof, he said that it used to be in a grove of large canarium and durian trees, and that he and others used to hunt and shell canarium nuts there, and that some time in the 1930s, they had toppled it, and he had been present. I was told that the monument was used as the place for the village guard, where he should sound the alarm should he sight enemy vessels out at sea. The place, Aman Ira, is said to be the site of the old village, which was abandoned in Portuguese times. The alarm was blown on a conch shell. I am told that there is another stone someplace behind Oma with a conch beside it, which was used as an altar on which damar gum was burnt. ...page break... Netong states that the corner post must be planted on the east side, and Agus Manuhutu states toward the sea. Netong says the post must be planted as the tide runs out, when it has reached the distance of about one fathom from the high-tide mark on the sand. (end of page 198). ...Page break... April 24, 1965. @as as@e@ ko @pea@ in C.@.s this evening. @Fsted lunch. Stu3ir@. Slept. Went up and sat alone under a canarium tree. Met old Chorneles Hetaria who knows Omaese Inn!@rce. Sqrqon cnwr out clcnr. Find it difficult to fathom the @@r@neœs of this Inn@. How people could suspect me of idol worship! Sunday, April 25, 1965. Agus spoke on "the Temple of the Holy Ghost" this morning. I was blessed with 2 good delivery ne2in in the evening on "The Invisibleness of the @in@@Oom". April 26, 1965. @@EtV@ dcy. œo Fork on len@un@c. Tante @u$i still @onc. April 27, 1965. Asked to 9rc@ch @@2in Ly @@us. 3orkcd with Oom @tj@. œot much uœQ. Ue iv@c@ ver@ little inuce@. was blessed nr@in wi*L n good delivery on the Spirit sn@ tac baptism of the Holy Ghost. April 28, 1965. I dreamed that ni!ht tnrt I could see the stars in excellent clar it@'- Dreamed of the sea rnu ships. April 29, 1965. s@@@r@un@baito@ulp@w.Cn toA.mbon wherel @c@r@ tkptl @2@ a rp@istcred letker,2tl;@@@2: To K@te@.@0 lettcr. Too@ ? h.$h Fn@ then went back to Ambon. Slept nt SnT's. April 30, 1965. paul can't even remember who he gave my letter to . Only that it was from Morris, who should be sending my 7114.4r.@. No luck at P.O. Had intended to leave for s8D2run. Slept 9+ Ka@@@, Saturday, May 1, 1965. Browns @09r to th. @rs2r in Ambon this morning. I worked on my Aboru vocabulary. SCS@AC, @. Feeling of tiredness this morning, shortness of breath. ili@@t c@ills @vring morning service. Then fever. Took mnlrrir trh1rt9 after lunch. @ev@r iinallk hro@r l@tc etniT3t.Lunch wFslrtc ko@rir a@ Fe @cre w@iting for @ rUcft W@o nrvrr sLosce u@. Monday, May 3, 1965. We8t after or@c2l of @cstcrd@>r. Late breakfast. 3srm hFth. Tuesday, May 4, 1965. Still not entirely well. Resting and reading. Went to evening service. Feel spiritual emptiness. Wednesday, May 5, 1965. To Ambon. Still no letter. @15e now saw@ that s@c also s@% ? @2ctrrc from Morris. Net @Ob Prlasoui2. Slept @t Snœ's. c. go immi@r9tion. @oP?ul's.iict G@ruPrtik2wa, @olop, @@e go Wws@it? on WFy to KFte7. from @rto@ I went to @u:chu trying to @ct to s2@arun. Slept at horriLie, filthy (uest-@o@sc @t Tulchu. Bedbugs! Friday, May 7, 1965. That go fellow came and stood at my window and looked at my things and asked about my socks. I got fed-up and gave them to him. They were a pair of ordinary cotton socks. If I remember correctly they were dark blue with a diamond design. Late in the afternoon someone told me that Inggu had arrived and gone on to Ambon. I had failed to get a motorboat to Saparua so I returned to Ambon. @. Found Inggu at the bus station. Went with him to the "Hotel Anggrek" (p?rkl;ot@@) 2ne talked with Cak. Saw the man who came over with me on the plane. Then Inggu and I had lunch at Tante Eng's. I spoke at street meeting this afternoon. Inggu made a confession to me. Was staggered by his sin.I s@nE at C.A.s.l@iser@ of man. Terrible imperfection. U nLe lirv@btv rr @ce. Boundless love. Sunday, May 9, 1965. To church with Tante Eng. Paul Spoke on "The @0@@ to Succrs@". To Trnte T8@uletc's. Gift from @cr )Pe's mother). To churcn with jnp af?in. Inggu spoke on "A Reason For Believing".May 10, 1965. To Tulehu again. With Inggu this time. No boat. Returned to Eng's embarrased. Ashamed because I have no place to stay. Feel a little unwelcome at Kate2 and here. Saw Hank Risakota. Saw Yap. Went to Risakota's but Oom Hank not home. 1?. Saw Loya. Sill and Americans at harbour project. œReceived money. Muskita. Risakota. May 13, 1965. Bought an electric iron and some chocolates for Tans (Eng, Anna, and Giok). Shopped some. Back to Kate2 on Bill's welcome. $2s at Keri's house. Four tins of cheese costqc:@plO,O@O. 14. At Kate2. was forced to go to Ambon for the graduation ceremonies this evening. Wem Sihaialatua graduated. Saw Topi! Received letter from Mother.may 15, 1965. At Kate2. Preparing a sermon. Got a ride in to town late in the afternoon. Ate at the "Sejarah," amd place Tin2 Dulu used to be. Had mi Kuah. Spoke on perfection in C.A.s. Met a man named Otto at Eng's. Saw Fred Tehupuring. Slept there. My sermon came out clearly. The reason why people li@c @rown can't understand Pi@rncp is because they always hear a motor in the background. Sunday, May 16, 1965. To church with Tante Eng. Keri spoke on overcoming from the letters to the seven churches in Revelation. Had an excellent lunch at the"Gembira."On to KatD2. Met a Javanese from the Poka project while crossing over on the perahu (outrigger from Galala to Rumahtiga). I walked with him as far as where he stays at Poka, in an apartment from which you can look out across the road over the bay. His wife treated us to a delightful piece of Indonesian cake, and coffee (I think it was). He had studied in Italy. At Kate2 tonight I spoke on the unpardonable sin and pride. Bill slept through part of my sermon, and I confess it was long. Francis walked out on me. Monday, May 17, 1965. Rainy. Tante Baba off to Saparua and Nusa Laut. Reading Dwight Miller's "Forgotten Mysteries," and finished it. Eating well but not enough of it. Tuesday, May 18, 1965. Brown family uses Rp18,000 per week for shopping, and @ry their wash girl, Ata, Rp 1,500 per month. @ainy a@2in to@ay. Kcri le@ thr evening service ah@ re@d from the Ps@lmœ. Wednesday, May 19, 1965. Went to Ambon with Bill. Trying to teach Thalia the ukulele. Sandy was jealous and pushed her at me. She was embarrassed. These two girls very sex-conscious and tense. Thursday, May 20, 1965. Bill gone to Ambon. Had delicious cherry pie. Chicken and noodles. Agus manuhutu was here today (at Kate2). I typed out my"soul theory." Friday, May 21, 1965. Went @r Lo the church and sought the will of the Lord. Srn@p@ over a coin and flipped it. Decided to apply for membership with the Assemblies. Wrote my letter of application in Malay and gave it to Kerri for editing. Saturday, May 22, 1965. Was up before dawn and off with the Browns to Ambon. There we picked up Teko Luhukai and went on to GudangArang. There I fell into a hole in the planking on the wharf. Had been helping to load their baggage. Let them go on to Laha with Teko. Went shopping, then walked to Galala with Tante Koœ and Teda Yom and chartered a perahu across to Kate2 for U@l;,t isJ. Sister Brown had told Martha to keep things food ano @ifts ti jUSt ns they were before t@ev had left! but @lreA@v yarthp hF@ Dut everything 2way. The whole place looked absolutely different. She was headstrong with me. Browns' flight was cancelled and they arrived back and Sis Brown had a talk with her (An@ I don't remember if I had beœun to have friction with nster then or not). They arrived home about dusk and said that the flight was cancelled until tomorrow. Sunday, May 23, 1965. The Browns left very early, and I didn't get up to see them off. At church Keri spoke on the parable of the house on the roc, and there was a sweet spirit in the service, and the Holy Ghost moved in the prayer service. I spoke on emotion In the evening. Monday, May 24, 1965. I am having a difficult time running ms house. The kids are too playful. Esther and Thalia behaving about like a couple of kittens might behave around a dog. Went to Rafael's house in kampong. @@@k@ @œ@@"@%dt"l@k@lia about her conduct this evening. To Rafael's Tuesday, May 25, 1965. Hanes Sihaialatua slept in the house last night, but Yo is sick. Had a good time of prayer late tonight. Down to Rafel's again late. Found no oppertunity to testify. Wednesday, May 26, 1965. Trouble with Esther again for the second time. She can't or won't MAY, 1965. Friday, May 28, 1965. Right tonsil extremely swollen and painful. Hurts to swallow. Keri came and prayed for me, and from that moment on I started to mend. Yap came with a fellow from off the boat named Effendi, who wanted to sell me a radio, but I didn't want what he had at the price he asked. Saturday, May 29, 1965. Tante Kos gone shopping. Teko came with Bill's car. Then went and returned again with the Duncans! Fred and I went on an adventure to some place, but I can't remember where. Sunday, May 30, 1965.Keri led the morning service and Oce spoke on "Liye from God." I delivered an impromptu message in the evening service on Elijah's trek to Horeb. Jodi wouldn't come except to the morninE service. Monday, May 31, 1965. Off to Ambon with Teko and the Duncans. Shopped with Jodi. Who should be selling sugar and stop me and ask if I remembered who he was but Kaimudin! We spent over RplO,OOO shopping. Fred couldn't get his licence so Teko had to drive us back out to Kate2. We stopped and had lunch at the Gembira on the way home and Fred payed. H@s@@%mx@axss@skm Rp@@QOQx@nExAxsxs@@x*aaœy Hannes Sihaialatua and Yoce were also at the Gembira. The meal was fine, but Fred and Jodi were still unable to enjoy it, and were worried about sanitation. It was also very hot back in that little room. Fred gave Teko Rp1,000 for his services. Tuesday, June 1, 1965. Fred and Jodi and I went swimming down at the quay the Russians built at Guru2. Oom Paul Mataheru passed in his canoe. Wednesday, June 2, 1965. Too rainy to swim. Showed old McComber house to the Duncans, as Willis', the new family, also from Texas intend to use it. We moved some of the furniture to keep it from getting wet. Thursday, June 3, 1965. Went to Ambon with Teko and the Duncans. Fred got his licence and drove us home but struck a bus (from Tulehu, I believe) and finally ended up paying Rp15,000 for the damage it . He claimed that he wasn't at fault, and he and the driver of the bus had an arguement that might easily have developed into a fight. It seemed to me that Fred must have been somewhat in the wrong, as it was at a narrow place and Fred was really going too fast and didn't know the road and the way people drive in Ambon. There was a Mobrig (I think) who seemed a bit drunk (or crazy), and he insisted that the case be brought to the attention of the Motor Vehicles Police in town. He seemed to have rank, and people were afraid to go against him. Fred didn't want to pay anything just because he was the foreigner, and wanted to have the 8hln take, and my council that it wDHn't worth it, @h?t with all the might heat ailU me?rines@! and rvervho@@' e@@"r to prthomc, he D9i? t@r man t@e@pl5;,,enn G21,0@ 2nf $plonœ, and @e could easil;@:;3vv fli99ed @n@ rlace be "11 hcen crushvn to (cnt@ on the rocl@e bQloiv. :t KrteZ we listene@ to the s@ace shot over t@c r@@io. Friday, June 4, 1965. 8vcrM@clminr rFiUS. Tirc@ out. Fla@ee"conccntration" with 3unc2n$ for t@eiirst Lime. We use@ the"scrrbbld'set. Saturday, June 5, 1965. G2ve @uncaus a t@ste of tombon@ (coconut sprout)! sn@ Jodi snid thek it had a sweet porky taste. You lulow, like sweet and sou@ pork: Someonc gave us some soursop. It rained on and we played concentration. Sunday, June 6, 1965. Hannes Sihaialatua spoke in the morning service, Frcd Fnd I went fishing with keri's trident down at the 2uay at Guru?. We.got one little"sembilad'thnt h@ sreared. I spoke in the evcning servlce on Elisha and Joash. 7. At@ (Mnrtha! WES Snott@ to wp tod@y, nwd refused to @FnF curtnins. Shr wouldn't cven @ns@er mr @hcn I t.kke@ tD hcr! but simplu i@norcd me as if I didn't eYist. Jodi sai@ t@?t t@c furnlturc in the s@ttin5 room @1u1@ fFdc if k@c curt,ins w@rc left off, ?4d Sis @rown hF@ kol? her to m@int@in v@er?rtLinTlh the Duncrns. Fre@ bou$@t @ kerosenc l@mq, Eot Ata: I went to to@yn w: 'rs rrobably becausc it was so cheDq t@rt he co@l@n'@ sffor@ not to. It , one of t@oselarFer ones! the hanFinF kind. It1?3son@,@somrtiinr @i$p USj.5o or so, complcte @vlth s@a@c and nll. went to En@f. Tel@o wrnt honr @itk US @@U took the car bFck. Frc@ is sti@l not rce@inc @c@!. - *r @Qu5. dWAL,iivs! 9. Trip@ buk f2ile@ to rent @@ outrl@p?r to t@@e @unc@n@ 9r@w,l@l'. Wc @ikc@ u? ts k@c ..iL@ ?on@ from Guru@ (I @n? @rc@ and Jo@i). Then do@n the Hitu roa@ ?s f?r as @cker Sua, @n@ nlonp the trnil. StFrte@ w@@ll kill you for thFt" hn@ines@ frow my wor@s ahouk thp Sinonito@ H@ok@e comc to s@u2ton!inke?.Of courœcl Fm hc2rtbroken ko seQ?@l tke be@uti3 tLrt oncc wrœ, destrosc@. I love S?te9 so @uch. @o@n@ tkpt sic!@lcs ha@ bccn r?i@c@ fro@ Sro@u's Irmrri in the office.room. T@ntr @2b2 mnde F 500d frir@ chiclicn dinner, @ud it is won@crful to bp rLle to rc2lly e@t, aftcr t@c slop Jo@i uscd Lo nu out. Sh. iœn't much ?s :@ at @c@st not with tiiese m@terials. a- CO@ 10. %ent u@ to lookout in t@c morniij with @re@ but coul@n't seQ 7 s@t,. Itins thclooi@out Lc@ine Hunut, frow whcrr sou c2n clc@rl@'ser t@c aFr@our 8rca. @e@dinF "Whitq !!ilr". Hn@ c@cellent @unch. ient symmminr. ClimLed to lool@out agrin hut sti@l no œrros@. Plryed conccntr?tion. Won. Told Fred @e c6uldn't bcnt me pnymore, RB I hnd foun@ the systrm. @e actunlly sotmrd@oout it.I!e los@2ud lost. 11. @ouue the @irls out using @:'"""'s mis@inc sicl@les on thQ rr2ss in the e@rly mornin;. @antc @chr Uldu't seem to minu. @rnl the bQl@ to @et the DuncFns u@. Listenen@ to tLc radio. Frcd vQut up to t;!e looioilt? @ut coul@n't sec the@;Frose. @id@inT @boutlsillinc, rn@ m@yL. runninr it into L@cœroun@ a Lit.L"@rliamisun@erœtoo@ nn@ rF@ off mit@owt rinishing her luuc@, cn@ @r@tc @ji @n@ to comc rn@ ret hcr from @o:rn L@ Lhe XrnFri tree. Jo@i @Fd tripd to t@@l@ to hcr, hut shc hn@ run. s@e c2i@c h?ci for suD.er. 1?. Fre@ eno I 0;f to to@n fDr informntion. @is thin@s to @rrive on tLe s@rosa witA @np@o2t. SawDelion (tje @pwaiian) an@tyepF. @q@@ht c@n@i. COU@nn't ret hrttcries. CeLle@ @orris for @@@0@,090 more. Tnntc ?rhn ' Fu@ rnnte @OF nlso wcnt, hut sen9rrtrl@. Sunday, 13. ,!ul@ny-school on AicniF. T2nte .@i spoRe on "Suffer:np" in the moruiu!=service. @rd no spirit to prn 9onDlulu. @oql@ gce L9 Boun@ noou. Dreqme@ aLout showinF @othcr rround f@r Lclow! kut ncvcr @adc it to Alr @onnn cent@r. yost?lgia pbout walking wlt@ @ot@cr down 01@ Hawaii. @anncs Sihnipl@tup s@oke in the evcning scrvicc. 14. go town a@@ to the hQrL9ur. Ee@r@ the @ckAkr Is icRvlnr ror rrn-t@ tolnorroM. Got @cncrntor armrture rt i!aœn 1;uning on crc@it. Srourht it @@me to @pte@ only to find thnt the old one @ns still nll right. I mu@ freu we@t for @ ri@e in t@c cer u@ ?nst TelnE@I!odot on t@r @i@w ro@d. T@c car strucli bottom Kever@l timco. It iA Bimply tQo low for unim@roved roFds litc we @ave ncrc. 15. Fred @u@ I took Jo@i to AmLon with us this time, fqr Ee inten@e@ to send hcr on akead on the Sck?k@. Jo@i devQloped 2 he@@ackc from waiting aroun@, so we srnt out to @@tu Tj@?eu. @-e@ climbed the roc+. 3e also found the entrance to the cave F Ilttle may up. Thcs we went u? to MBPggaDua.It was about4Pkfwhen we left for Kate2 n@ain. 16. Went in to town @itL Fred. Sa@ Ve@a. @ekat? to 2rrive in khe evcnin@ a@@ sail tomorrow. 3ome. @cRdiny book"s we Tot2t s@op yester@s@. 17. Weut @ to lookout nn@ s?ip@ the @9rosr co@inc in throu@h t@c trees. Fred Lr(lhlS hinoculprs.:ge went back tohouse rn@ t@pn 0;f to @mhon. Foun@ the;(@ros2 @inc at anchor, tut she@r@oomQin to the@u@yl, bcTorc we COUI@ fi@@ a kolc" or outri@@cr to t9kr us out to it. %nF @n@ @OFt @ort @as aboar@: @Qc @C@nk2 was also In DO@t hut Ve@@ @idn't sccm so o3cay. enthusiastic as beforc. Se tol@ Lim never to ming rhowt tnkinp Jo@ feet from me the WalNaro swirls by. I am resting on a para2 in this house of open walls called a huma-tita belonging to the Miqgodo tribe, to Selaq, who sits talking with Budin on the para2 near me. This is the second such huma-tita I've seen, both of them at WalHasaNaqan. ney have para2s along both sides, and the other one had a fine drum , though of crude workmanship. After writing my diary yesterday, I talked to Amer, Andi and Dortea. Rested but couldn't get to sleep after a dinner of papeda, vegetables, meat in coconut milk sauce. It was evidently salted deer meat, Kasbi and rice. It was all very good, of course, but I couldn't get to sleep in the afternoon because I was distracted by the above mentioned three who sat talking about the escapades of Andi Hukunala (at least that was part of the reason I couldn't sleep)- I got up at last and asked them about him. They Said that he was often in the house alone with Pang, talking. Dortea said she saw him lean up against her from behind and kiss her. Andi said that they found DECEMBER 1966 17, continued. Waelanalana.- The time is 4:45 PM. I am reclining on a bamboo and pandanus-nat bed in a house on the bank of the WalGeren. I don't know which bank as I don't have a compass, but we have only crossed the WalGeren once sinceWalHasanangan, and that was here. I would like to call it the "Fly River" for all the flies that came swarming over me while I was washing and bathing. Muas asked me if we had flies in Namlea! I read from the translation of the first part of John, which Topi had helped me to make, and the tribesmen listened. If I remember correctly, hey criticised my Buruese rather cruelly, though. 18. Waelanalana - Waesodi.- suNDA@.- I forgot th@t it was Sunday all the day long. @e f*@@-- finally left WaeLanalana at about 8:30 AM after @ breakfast of peanuts, kasbi and rice. I I had three cups of instant coffee, amd my pleasant host, Abu (nawas' soni, @ad a cup with me @m and had seconds on sugar but not coffee! After breakfast a middle aged or el@erly wo@an ad@ed fo@ * asked for my plastic tarp. Just like that! I wasn8t sure then, but later learned that she was t t@eKepala SoaNawas' wife. I f-lrst told her thatl n@ededit. Thenl offeredto tradeitl@:th one of those leave jobs, evidently @ade of pandanus leaves sewn together do@ble thickness. I later foun@ it to be miserably small, and not very new. my hosts didn't seem particularly friendly, except for Abu, who seemed nice enough. Of course Nawas' wife smiled whe@ she got my tarp! It was only a three meter strip of narrow plaatic from Ambon. It even leaked some. It seemed t=at Nawas' eyes were peculiar when I arrived yesterday, Both here and at Walhasanangan they left my the remaining contents of my precious cans of corned beef in the cans over night with the top part used as a lid and tid @ly closed. In both cases I had L.'ven explicit instructions that the meat must be removed from the can before storinf stori@@. Yesterday t@ey informed me that people from Waslei were at Waelanalana, and later I fqund that it was a man named Labunga together @ith three others. I sent for Labun.a by letter and @e a and his companions arrived after I had fini@hed my supper. I stood,and taking his hami in @ine embraced him with my left arm. He was reluctant at first, but after awhile nf a@reed to leave the equivelant of four Harie tins of peanuts he was carr$ing to the coast to sell and be my guideback up to @@slei. I had asplendidioppertunity to testify when the @aslei @eople ca@e, as Abu asked me to read from our translation in Meserete of John four. @here was tkat @plendid " spirit of receptiveness in @lem. I testified about ean's three-part nature, and @@e- his need for contact with God, etc, After leaving $aelana@ana at 8:30 AM we recressed the Walgeren, retrac@;@ our steps, th@n went on to @ord the Waedole, Gwali, follow the Khan@a (where @ uis oarted company wi @1 us), up and down to t@f @emtihut, ascend @long the Mapa to its headwaters, desce@d tc the @@"ulahin, fo@i the @alkarohin, then proceed to the Hadifut where @e ate rice and corned beef in a little thatch shelter in the dens@ fore@t in the rain. ae sere there until about two P@. @ um th@re we ascended u@ the Futkikin, descended walu-Snela No.i , asc@ded @@rJit and descendedtc the@ h@adwa@@rs of tht @teGeren. Then we followed the @ae@eren past Waeglapit and Waetile, asc@n@ed Ohonlawa, descended @e-W@ dalusnela No.2 and proceeded on past Waeda along the precip@t < n banks of the WaeGeren and on acros@ some marshy grasslands to Waesodi, where we spent the ni@lt. I think that despite my blindness, the trail is @imply too narrow for western feet @hrouch the @rasslands it was no more than a rut worn into the slip?ery cl@g, and I was crashing all over the place to k@ep up with Labunga, so that we made it to WaSodi about 6 P@. @here was an apprehensive attitude in Labunga as we approached, in the stillness 0@ the latf afternoon inthe @rasses. We could @ee the little clusterofhuts ahead, @here had becnleechesnear @@@ river. Monday, December 19, 1966, Waesodi - Waslei. I was sad to find that Labunga let the ants get to F@ thi@i can of my precious corned beef. I was overjoyed to find last night that there are four of our people at Waesodi. They are Lisen, @ambois, Manis, and Mukaconto. As we were on the way yesterday Labunga had pointed to this group of houses and said, "We will rest there, whether they like us or not." We had heard of Lisen but Labunga had never net him, he said. When we arrived they gave us a fine place. It was the first night without fleas on my trip. There was a fine table which they spread with a fine cloth. There were also about three chairs. They killed a chicken and served it to us with papeda and kasbi. They brought hot water to us first, after our bath, and I made instant coffee. I read my John 4, but there was a different spirit here, and I became increasingly aware that Labunga was envious of of me. They talked until late. There was a fire at our feet but still I got very cold in the night. WaSodin is at an altitude, and chilly at night. Labunga got up and tried to stir the fire. Then he crawled back into bed shivering. I shared my blanket with him. More instant coffee in the morning. They later served a fine spread of rice, chicken, peanuts and kasbi for us. I testified to a beturbined, bemoustached old man who was sitting on the bed to my left during breakfast. We testified and talked long, and never got away until about tenthirty or so that morning. I thought that Labunga tried to undermine my testimony a time or two. Once when I sang in English he said, "Bela lalenmo,"I understood the others to answer, "We couldn't understand him." The people at Waesodi wept when we prayed our departing prayer and I felt that The Spirit was working in one young man, but I felt that Labunga quenched it by talking December 19, 1966, continued. too much. I should have liked to have stayed and lain hands on him to receive the baptism, but things didn't work out that way. We left Wasodi about 10:30 AM. And we arrived at Waslei at about two in the afternoon. We are in real mountain country now, Up and down over towering ridges. I bathed and relieved myself before going on to the village. Stool problems. Had to "dig it out," as Dr. Thra@@r would say. The Waslei is a fine stream. When I entered the little cluster of huts called Wasleinangan the people stood at the entrance and in the house of Busiron waiting for me. I embraced old Busiron Wadupa (Leslesi), owner of the house, and shook the other female hands. All were weeping. I think they accept me. I hope that I don't appear callous to them. I sat down inside and prayed and wept as the Spirit came upon me, though I fell half asleep before they served us. I had been writing "Nescafe" in the original diary for my instant coffee, but it was here that I discovered that it had been Folgers instant that I had been drinking. I had instant coffee, boiled bananas, and some peanuts wrapped in my han@o@ evidently by the women at Waesodi and rice, It was a very pleasant change. Labunga's little girl Unang, about five, and his baby boy Wentis, probably two or under. I made out fine with the little girl, whon I sat upon my knee and later gave some peanuts to. She was interested in the sugar. @e@@@g@ Labunga had wept as we had approached Waslei from the steep slope above, and pointing out hurried me as I bathed, saying that they would be waiting in the village with the "roh". Tuesday, December 20, 1966, Wasleinangan. I know now that these are not mountains of joy but of sorrows. As if the birds sang with sorrow, and not joy. The beauty of the ridges, the clarity of the stream only echo sorrow here. I could hear it last night when Labunga's wife sang "Tuhan Tolong Pada Saja, dunia penuh susah." In this land of plenty they starqe. In the lovely refreshing coolness of these highlands they waste away with tuberculosis. Malaria, which is not hard to cure, becomes a dread disease called "pit" or "seed belly" biji poro , from the @@ spleen being swollen out of proportion. Villages are never more than a few squalid huts in a clearing. I suppose that disease is one way that one race can virtually wipe out another, as mps have happened here. I am resting here today with a couple of very sore feet. The backs of my heels are chaffed through. My feet have been wet all day long during this journey and my '@eds" hi@h canvas shoes have worn soft skin badly. I need a pair of spike shoes instead of these, I see now. The slopes are simply too steep. Sometimes I must do twice the work, climbing up again where I slipped down. Almost a losing battle. These poor, dear souls killed a chicken on my behalf yesterday and brought out mountain rice for me. We also had papeda. The sauce was very good indeed. My old host, Busiron, wants me to stay about three days, so that he can stick one of his pigs (otherwise it mouldn't seem worthwhile yet). I declined but said that I hoped to return another time. I relieved myself in the stream this morning, and feel better. The boy of the village, @jen@, followed me down (passed me on the way and bathed, evidently scrubbing himself with a stone breakfast. I had instant Folgers. More of those good boiled bananas and peanuts lo@ taught on the @ @ts, and tried to make Oabun@t understand @@e@ - - them without complete success. On food and word. I wrote afterLabungaleft, GunaHukunala brought a gift of pineapple. They say that there are many in the forest. In my two day's journey with Labunga he found one by the wayside,each day. @ne first @as quite green, The second was @lmost ripe. I was v@ry the@r full for this, my only sourre 0 ' vitamin C. I muEt mention that last night @efore I knew that I should not be leavin, today we held a service. @ukahensa led the singing, of which I tried to co@y some songe, @hey cw@e out 2@out @ as follows,: a@@-8@@@-@eF@@-e.@@m@-@3a@-8@e-Rewe-F*@*-k@kB-B@@@@@@e@-- Anabualfofono @amidi@1diridal2mtempat@crtjaj@ ' Kimi can OFo newe fidi Faku Banulalet Semua kami kluar den@an nama @uh@d@@ Iko la kim' hama 6p0 do @im' sale fidi Grial@$erta kami sampai di tempat b@n@sa Safir @atik nim' tabiat tam' kim' iko gam'di Banula$e@ua menjerah dan mengaku nw:@ ruh@@@u is@id to be by Baoa Temi.) @uhan jan@ be@ar, Tuhan @ohulkudus, ban @ @ t d@l@m hatiku. Waelei sampai Waemamboli @ai anak jan@ bersalah, datang pada Tuhan Serahkan dosamu dan salah2 mu dibawd@ kaki salib Thuanku Ja, Tuhanku, aku datang pada nimat W Aanku Nengaku dosa2ku Tjutjikan hati saja didalam darah jan@ kudus. I December 1966. @], continued.- L@bun@ 4(who says thœt @anuhutu, Uu@, named him Danj Labun@a tclls me th@t the heathen in this part of the country are desparately afraid of Nona Defen. "Aec@lse she will dome and tear down all those rotten houses and make you build new ones." @ani told me this as we were sitting out on the timbers alonside his house. If not on the timbers, then on the led@e. Labun @t te@ls oi a woman of aangali who tried to enter Temi's Banulalet @ithout Gonfessin@ @@;EU@ 1@6@ @@' S@day. @rdapa- As@@edawain.- de return@k to ourslevated ki@;henis @@ wcrnin=, @@, b@eakf@st, j@n@ I w2s pleased to @L@ve @o@e m@r@ 1ean@ts to eat. I testifi@d and @ola t@em a"@out the fulnf@S of the @pirit, using my drinkinti-@lass to ex@lain. "e left e@@ @il@;@c 0@ @rd21a to@etaer witk @ wo@an and a youn@ man @amed bohon @@d pcrhaps a little 1@3 toQ, @wt I'@e for@otte@, as I'm writi@= @@is @s a@ addition now in 1@68. It was 9:03 2.A. @1;c@ wf left, a@d the@ made my walk inlw@d and then b@@; down to the l@@e where a canoc @ro@ tkl œilla@@ kad come to meet us. @he@ told @e t@a@ i! was because it was too mudd@ near tkc vili@@f. @@e c@noe ferri@d us out over tMf Waters of the l@'@e, @n@ I had my first re@l @i@w 4@ Aer t@e@. @t was allittle clearer today. She waters of the Id@e were very clear an4 @re@@, @rt I @mr)t @ @ @@ir purity @fcause D; @11 the p@opl@ @h@t use them as a na*h@r@l ceespoQl. I s@m@ a@ N@ @@nt. iht canoe let u@ oii at @ placc wkere @e @ad to step up hi@h to get oœf on@o @ ,. biu@;. Srom wherewe;anded we went strai@ltup @@@ steepincline to thetop 0@ @@ @a@;, @N frn@ @@;reon th@ tr@il was b@tter. 1 @@:nk @ris place is called Kak'tua. Our w@@@-@e t@e; @T As@re@@w2i@ lastsd sevtr@l @@@rs. I exer@ed @?sclf and we nadf bett@r time, though I rw@@o! @@ @e@d @@#i@st a standing treeonce, and Ffrhaps se@eral tiw@sduri@@t@at wal@ alona k:f rh@ti@.,@;m@ r@ ridi@ we deccnded to t*@ *aS@on@ whfre they lost @;e trail which was now hidden @@;c@@: i taM if @@ @@@boo tr@w:s nrt all across the @@3 @@d all @roun to @a@e roo@ fo@ a n%f @l@@t@ti@;. It .,, a @iificult pl@cc for nc. I am not sure if it was before da@@one or after œ@C 1 @aM@c@ @v head. @t any rate we @sce@ded from da@@one and went on till we descended t@ t@@ nlsiinr W@tf@S Oi the *a*1a, w@u @i we followcd downstreuR @ntil we started N@e arc@it t9 @suiw@lwa@@. S@e elderl@ wm@a@ w@o @eœt wi @@ us @ad been ea@c. to learn @@e-ee@@-"@uh@@ @eMl@ @olon@", a c@orus, evfr since tnflS;e, andl had foundit @lNostimpossibl@ to get@2'@.a:i@tq c2rr"@t@@ tun@. klon@ the @@eka when @ohon @e@t over for somet@inJ i noticed k@s betrlnr@ 1ouc@ w:uci was sluniacrossi@sbody on a cord. Itwas a little muddy before the main asce!;tto AM@;cd@w2in, and itwas alon@way uF i@e ste@pi@ ine, andl had to stopto relieve @@@fi@". It was 2;4@P.@. w@e@I @ade my f-lrst eutry in my diar> at Asukedaw@;@, s9I @sti@atc@ tuat we must have arrived t@ere at about 2:0@ P.E. I was @reeted at his nouse @@ =@i@an, @h@ @awasan, @sos Ao@se is abn@t ki@ fart@eat @own t@@ hill. He had t@ars in œ@@ @@,s, ami ve C@;1@ ffel @ deen @ellows@a@. @ s@t on a bed t@@re for awili@e, and then was cs@ortn! R@ s@ œic houseofUdut, @he@atebesi (Matleasalbesi , chiefof t@@ villa@e. @is housei@ a@ @u; tQ@ ofthf@@ll@:e, lookin@out @cross the ranges ofmountains to the east ani @j:@illa@e below. @he'e I shook hands with @any pcoplc, and Rade a speech in @alay to the crmld 0@ Reoplj En@ @@d gathered around i@e v@r;u@da@. I thing it was because they asked me, but I t@@;ied 0 t'if@ a@@%t t@@ raja of Kajeli's @lans @or noh@@@danizing the daeApu It@at had been qnf @, t@@ chie@ reasons that I @ad co@e @fr@ on m3 way to @anulalet, to get @emi to come or sc@d sonto@@ tc open u? the @ae@pu with ne zefore the iohamedans tried to force the peoDlf into :sl@@), @hen I read to ttfn f'ro@ our tr2@@slation of Joh@ four. @hey had @.ven me @ fcllow n@@ed Bartiu who @ad been to S.@,B. till t@f tS@@@@- third year, uu@ he coul@n't translute @@r me so i w@s forced to go asead id @ai@y for 4@ speech. I was fmlstrated at nor being ablr to s?@a: to t r peopicbeca@se 01"t@e lan@la@e difficult@, but ti@ere was anan there from @aeLo w@o s@o@@:!ala@ tome.I had the annointing 01"taei!oly3host and testified to hin clearlyin@@l9;.iie w@s a Protestant ehurcA man. the 8pirit be@an to fall. A youn@ wo@an, œukacita i@ad cQ@e @mi @at down on my left. @he@awasan was seated on my rig@t, @d@acita(@uka@ida) @@,c @ short nessa@c "" ' in tongu@s lWit@ the interpretation, I ti:nk, but not a clear one), and the @awa@2n almost @otfreein anot@@r ton@ue."@heyhad suspi@ioned me at first,but when M@ey s@w the Spiritmo@@n@ they believed. @hcy later told me that they had @een afr@id t@jt I was politic@lly con@ectcu. @@ey brou@@t me a m@d @an, @alus, to be prayed for. @his was later in the aite@-M@Qn. I stoqd with S@m ana lay my hands gn him, and had the faith of the @cople, and I wrotf i@ @? oris@:al diary th2t I hoped for his @eali@@. I wrotc also in ny 0@.@n@l @iary th%t I felt @ @lnny hardness of spirit !@;T @s at Erdapa, n@: t@@tl t@ou@ht O;ati$:m@t have beennabun@a, who seems to w?r@i@ tw:fle@h. @e seems to MaMt to @f SOMet @@# that he i@@lt I heard him @U@ @he@d of h@@sei@ nan@ t@@c@ @!d mu;fT@@@t@kes abou@ tki*;s @e didn't really know of. ksukedawain is the hand@onest 0@ the mountain villa@es I've seen on @@ juu @ley tkus f@r. "hc Aatebesi'@ @ouse ov@rlooks many other houses in the villages. @@e vill@ic is k@ilt on the mountain@i@e and the hou@cs Aave been built oi square timbers, and l@i@f R@rQ like t@@@c of @ s@ore @illa@e, what with @ @ir e@g g@ba2 walls, iThe houses kave s@j@rf ?9@1@ aw! @a@@2 walls, u@@ all in all it's more li@e a shore villa@@ but built on the w%un@ain@i@c, @0 that t@f old @atle@'s kou@c overloo;s na4y othfr hou@es below . The n@t@@@ s@ @ œrk @e @;d rulcd for a@m@t 2d years. @e @eld @ @ervice i@ @if evw@ing. @@e3 san@ a son@ of Bap@ @emi's @>$ i k@ njver @e1rd before, "Biar Gebar @eMe@ Sefen, c, La Opo," and did well at it. They had @ @;rri@le ti'@ :i S "@@*an @irim doh Api," thou@4 @1d it was one of the weirde$t @ounds I hid evfr @%lrd. I @A not sure if t@ey Qad ever sun@ that son@ before I came or not, but thf@ don't ii@t@@ to @Ni he w,s tak@ng his@ea@s at S@@l@iwaps, ne@td"oor, T@e@ said he also let so@eoneplay @y Buitar wbile I was Sone awa@, which was against mp esplicit instructions. I pro@ised them that I would talk to hi@. I was surprised when they serTed us gQod pancakes with our afternoon tea. Dort@a said they were @ade of kasbi flour and that she had used e@g in making them. I spoke of man, and John 3 in the evening service, and they t@id @e that about 20 had come. Many of the@ were from the interior, and Just happened to be here. I did well, @ @ none of them came forward for salvation. This @orning, dispite all their protests, I set out with Budin and his wife sometime after 8:00 A.M. Andi Solisa and his wife followed us along the WaEplau till we came to where the main trail was. we st@pped to rest,-@ Budin and his wife,- at a place on Kaku-Bele-Masin where @lere was a view, though I couldn't see well enough to enjoy it. On the @ar side we could see e long way, out oper the lowlands to the @ountains. They tried to show me the Samalagi river, b@t here my eyes failed @e again. It was as we restsd there that I met Man@Mual for the first time. A@er also caught up with us there on his way to the eucalyptus still at Miskoko, and he palked with us as far as the Miskoko turnoff, where he took the trail to the leœti B@di@ complai@ed about A@er not being willing to go on w8th @e today and lead @e, since he had to go as far as the eucalyptus still an@how. Budin and wife a@so said that Andi, Dortea, and A@er h@dnvt told the truth when they tried to intimidate me about there being nany turnoffs on the trail, etc. 7hey didn't seem pleased with them, and I couldn't ri@htly dissagree. (@@oking bakk l@ter, I feel that it is a wonderful thing that Budi@ and his wife could see things my way. Those two peo@le ri@ht out of the forest, unblemished with the hideous influence of the "shore people", thos@ we know as average Indonesians. ) I developed a @rowing interest in Bwdin's wife today. She seems so true in spirit ual things. She got far behind on the ascent of Kaku-Be@e-Masin, and @ l@ked the way she looked when she reached us, sweating and p@nting. There was sosething @ba@t her then that @ppealed to me esthetically. Somethln@ so real about he yas she sat there. When we arrived at WalHasaNaqan she served budin a@@ @@w@!@@,so@@u@@b@@t1ever touched a thing herself. Mana#ual made s@me good bark shou@der-straps for my ti* pack and strapped the@ on for me, Then he fo@l@wed us here, and with his help they got me Mua@, a good l@oking, w"ellbuilt young*a@ who speaksMala@; @lmy gm;de for@o@orrowb jo8rney. They say we @ay reach his village of W&9i-Lalen tommarro@, It lies beyond W@elanalana u'd W*Sodi, I@ was sunn@ and ManaMual l@d me upstream to batheafterl had met@n@@. I tried to leap &cross the stream near the Huma Tita when I returned, -and M@na@ual had said that he @ould really believe in A@ericans if I suoceeded,- but boobooed and landed in the water and got my shoes wet, r think it was because I was wearing a saron@. It rained efter we had gotten b@ck and started talking about the Bible. Budin's wife took what was left of the rice, but left the remainder of the chicken, which she s@ys she doesn't eat. She later took uncooked rice from my provisions w@en I asked hcr to, Around 5:>0 in the afternoon Budin told @8 of a ru@our so@eone had tried to intimi ! aate himv@t @8@t=Bapa Te@i had been beaten"and had fled into the forest@ That " SOD- ne@gO @n @ternOtreturntothe@ountai@s siaang was an "@@ama to@anton@" , and the@-5 @ud h or the Leksula police @ould beat him \\ WA@HASAH@QAN-WA@LA@AL@NA,SATUBDAT,DECEMBERl7,l96@- @@ ! iast. It's 6;>3 in the morning and I a@ still at WalHasaHaqan. The sky is s 1@ @he M@ny differe@t binis are singing, each bis own song, and then so@etimes on crickets and the gur@ling stream below me. Ca@p is coming alive. Chickens, swinel I found a dog curled up against the cold at the foot 0@ our para2, Last @i ht was a @iserable @9@ht for @e, The @ara2 was sva@ dn@ with b8ti@ flees9 and I was awake @any ti@@s scratching my w@lts. H@rrible, these creatures w@ bA@ a satisfying @e@l of ric@, p@rk d@n@@n@, papeda and corne@ beef l@st @iBht. I was foolish enough go open up my corned beef when Bndin's wife asked @e for it, saying, -as I understood it,! that the d@nd@n @ was too hard @* eat. I@ reality it Tas @@ry tough, but delicioue cQoked i@ santan &s it was, and I felt s@rry that I had vasted my precious provisio@s foolishly. I feel that they aren't qu@ts sur@ yet that I ca@ eat @nythi@g t@ey e&@, thsu@h, so I fQrgi@@ t@@@. I ts@tified durine @@pper, but felt a lack of 3 a@noi@ting. Mana@u@l r@tup@@d *@a I tsld A@as And hi@ stsri@s of the prophets u @h and Eii@h*. B@di@'s wife @a@s af@@r I had lain dow@ to sle@p and aaked @e @bout the werld be@ond; if it would be allright to clear @ra@@s, etc. I spoke to her about a song that they had sung on the way here that @e@@io@@d or was addressed to @other *nd @at@er, and slplsined that it was wrong to talk to people after death. I asked if she had ever heard anyone from beyond, She said, "No." I said that it is the same with them, for they no longer hear us, but someday we will all rise up together. December 1966. 26th continued.- a welcome in the real traditional mau@er of old Buru. @h@re is an old chi@@ t@ere who re@lses th enter"Sidangp though he is frien@ly toward us and all his subjects have aQieDt@d. @e is ahappy sortofold fellow, it seemed likr tome. Wley told me t!@atw@@e-we @=e a@pr9adrrl "Sidaq@" pcoplt to prepare me to be in the Spirit. ti@@en I saw them they were al st@nding out on the verandah of the old ma@'s howe or out under t he eaves. the old @an !u @s@lf was out in front, and he led them in a chant to me. Me wore his traditional turbine, a black coat, a red-stri@ ed scarf, and pants oi stri@ed maroon. He chanted in an emotional voice and thf others, his subjects, tke Sidan@" people joined in after him. If I was correct, it went something like this: "4r ship, by canoe, by foot@ across ridge and stream. @e @ave no clean virgi@ for you. @e have nothing to offer." I stood outside in the sunshine, leaniD@ on my @taf staff, and waited until t@ey we'@ done. @hen I embraced t@c old man a*d-e@e@@-@a@@e-w@@@-@@M-s@ e@@@rsr@@F- as he c@@e forward, and shook hands withthe oth@rs. @hey w2ntcd to detaini@e thfre, and though it wasn't easy, I felt that I had to turn tsen down, @hey prepared u fi@e me meal for us, and it wasn't until we had well eaten that we continued o@r journey. We sloshed up the WaeHan@a to its headwat?rs, and when they had iound @s trail we climbed uo a steep ascent to the rid@e. Old @aniSama, @@ kacida's husband, was @@@ing difficulty wiih his @eart, I @ @nk. Cn the descent to N w WaeSang'kabun, on the othtr side, I was œavin3 t trouble,and Euka@da eB@gee@e@-@@@@-@e@@a@e- or her stepdau@hter, on@ or klf otkfr, @u@3@sted that the @@0 was hunting me for not @oins to Grialale toda@ but pushing on. @hey hiM@ al@eet in@ insisted @@@@-@- today that I make the ascent to the site of Grialale, telliM@ ne @iat those who ro to @an@lalet m@st alwa@s @) there first, --almost as if it were soN@ srt of shrine on ao@ilgrima@e route or somet@ing. Indeed, I seemed to know all d@y today tk2t I was on a pil grimage! We made the descent and arrived at the WaeSan@'kabun in the misty rains. a@ ate m@r ' orovisions t@ere before @oinu 0@. I reme:$ler something about drinking or wcsi:i@@ i@ tke rushini stre@rnear so@eone's foot, and ho@ @:atp@rson Aad been worri2d about M@cont@@.nati@@ @ysel@, a@@ saiin tk@t my feet were clean 4ecause they were white. @e followed the dae Sang'kabun downstrewa for @lL@t seem@d like sev@ral miles, entering a forset 0@ c.@nt @ree- feE;s in @@@ @@th@ring @leom. I made good ti@e with my shoes 1 the strea@, t@q@=@ @ fell @any times. Oncel had stepped on theuplifted end 0*'a rot@Snlog andit@@@@@n@s wa@ " under my weid;t and @-@@@ my head had coNe crashing down onto the nest 10@ so @@rd @lat I had @8@n@eo@d@zzy that I had had to sit still for a moment where I landed till it wore off. Old Mani-Tama looked @son me and wept. In thin@s like these I could see the a@r@e- @'eat ap@rec@ation of these tribal converts. It was something that wa@aed the heart, th@@ feelin@ 0@ beinr loved, after the pitilessness of the Feople at Namlea. As we made our @ay down the Sang'kabun n@caL@da kepat aski@@ me how nuiA ti@e was left before ni@htfall. @hey had no way of telling, but I had the old Eternamatic that korris Aa@ @iven me on my arm. @he@ tried to estimate whether or not we could mak@ it to @emi's plant2tion. I had @iven u? hope in the gath@ring gloom as we hurried on as much as was @osk@@le with me poor eyes, I could barely see b,t they Fe. urged me on, saying that we were very near. ks it turned out we arrived just as ni@lt did, and they led me the last few step@ from the strewn to the little huts in the darkness. It must have been about 6:45 P.M. We warmed ourselves around the fire. There @ere other people there, too, either from or p=@@ to @anulalet. There had been a "ketua" from Grialale who walked with us at first as we wade our way up the @ae@an@a. No, perhsps he was a "@emuda" or something. @e walkid swiftly on wi@h his spear in his hand, to bring the news 0@ my comln@ to Bapa @emi. ' z@ @uesd@y. @aeSan@'kabun plantation - Banulalet. - In the original entr@ in my diary I wrote:'7:55 A.M. Cold. So cold @ couldn't sleep in @i ni@ht........... ' I am not a little disturbed this morning because of some things ihat h n @ been happening. @here had been a few peculiar thin@s that I noticed in the beha@ior of the @@ople. @h@y " told me that people hNre to Lo to Banulalet to "bertobat" All the weepini uusiness along @Se w way had made me thi@@ of that "lau@hing sickness" that @Ae-pee@@e-@@d-@@-New-@@@ leveled @illa@e; someFlace that @ had read abQut, I had felt that there was too much s@lf and flesh in it. Now they tell me that Bapa @emi is different from what he used to be, and that he wants @e to cry before @oin. on to him at Banulalet. @his conjures the horror of ! pro@@et @one Mad, and I am prayi@g for widdom, @-k@@@@-e@-@he-u@e@u-@@@ I knelt on the bed and pr@yed until I was in the Spirit. @he nib:@ had been cold, even with Timu ,n the bed with Re. I ended u@ i@ a mind of rabbit crourh on all fours on the bed with my flan@el sheet over m5 back and tucked in as mush as possible. It is really too small for me. I talked with some of Bapa @emi's men in the fresh sunlight, and tried to get some of my thin@s dried out. One pair of my pants gave our on their backside and the other pair i@ wet. @hey prepared a @eal for us, and I ate some kasbi and pork oil @efore we Icft for the ascent. Bapa @emi had g.ven explicit instructions as to just when @e should leave, and wheh our L*@de thou@ht that the sunwaswhere BapaTemi had said @eleft. DECEMBER 1966. 27th continued. The ascent turned out to be a particularly grueling experience. After just a short distance the land rises sharply, So sharply that you need to hold on with your hands too at times. From there on, our climb took us npl /@S stretches of trail at least as bad as any I had encountered so fsr. If any of the tr @@ils I followed here was @@ 4@@%/ difficult, @0 was the one from Waesan@ksbun to Banulaleti After the first ascent the trail took us to the left @lon@ an almo3t perpendicular face of the mountain that plun@ed down to a cascadin@ stream far below us. One @alse st@p could have me@nt deat@. I did exactly as I was told, the @uidedictating footholdsto my witk the end oi his spearshaft from time to time.I never k:!;@t thou@ht of falling. Afterwhile the rock face broke throu $1 the covering layer of clay, and we had to walk along poles lashed as brid@es over the otherwise almost humanly impassab@e places. de came to the @tream and followed it upwards. @he@ the @ u d@ told u3 that if we waHted to bet@e th@tie should bat@@ kcre. I had no idea what di"stance midltlie between us and Banulalet now.nBe bathed in t@t icy waters. As we ascended our guide e@ek@ *araed me repeatedly to see@ tears. L@aving @ * @tream behind we ascended ever hi @ @ r over stretch after stretch of tan@led--@Oom@times giant--tree roots, until at la@t we came to what see@edto bet@e top oit@@n@.nascent, and @@mwe iound aFathth@twas vcr@ nuchlike a forest Fat@ in the States. the forest floor h@re w@@ heavil@ car@eted @itk deca@ing ve@@table matter, and @ave sli@@tly undrr t@, @ti@@t oi our bodi@g. @ stafi was @luost useleer as a@ aid to walœin., be@ @se it would @ink ri@ht on in for about 4 feet or so. If you ventured 0œ*"the places where man was wont to trod you would fall through it, and if you were wearing shoes you would get them filled with dark brown and black earth. There was moss everywhere, and often very thick. over this type of terrain our new path led. It was maintained and had been kept clean. As we reached this path we heard the sound of a distant whistle from ahead. the @@@@e hurried us on in hushed voices. There was singing and sobbing far away. We drew ever nearer. our guide stopped us before a sort of entrance structure built of round poles and beams. It was shaped like this: A T the post of which was lashed to the middle of a lintel supported by two posts, one on each end, and parallel from any point of view with the beam of the T, which was somewhat shorter than, and rested above, the lintel. I do K"@U centre 0@ tnl5 pa@ei I later learned that this was the salib (cross). Here we B8lib changed our clothes and prepared ourselves for the entrance into Banulalet. Our guide warned us to seek tears. My companions had been sobbing intermittently all the way up, but I had been dry. I didn't respond even now. Then we saw a boy coming down the trail, and the guide informed me that Temi wanted me to seek tears, and that I should come with love in my heart. I replied that I wasn't coming in anger, and that I had known and loved Bapa Temi for a long time. I also understood my guide to enjoin me to look up so I could see Bapa Temi, and fasten my eyes on him as I approached. We went on. The singing grew nearer. Muka-Gida I thought she was called Muka-Glidak, t th time took the lead. The day was splendid: the mountain air was crystal clear, As we left the overshadowing forests behind, we came out into tie many shades of blue of the vault of heaven that arched over us to the horizons on every side except directly ahead, where yet loomed the last stretch to the summit. Looking uP I saw a structure that I immediately felt like from the darkest jungles of New Guinea, stood the tallest stilt house that I had ever seen. (I later heard that Chor measured it and it was something like 6 meters and something from the earth to the floor). Flying out in front was a little entrance balcony and a ladder leading i @ * rails with wild blossoms and ornamental leaves. i@"rom the rails and @alls around @@e.s@des of the house hung yards of unbleached muslin. it was packed with people, and almost everyone seemed to be waving white kerchiefs. Be@ow lay @hat was probably Qne 0@ the most strikinœ of views ever, i@"one could see it, and below that the white e@@u:@heof thebal@ed mountain top with Temi's house running north and south a few feet to the west, smaller houses farther down the clearing to the south, and @@e little band of pilgrims that we@e;@ie, toiling up the slope westward from the southeast. I glanced from side to side at the scenery, and though it wasn't possible for me to see much with my deteriorating eyes, yet I could tell that what I was seeing was very beautiful. The sound of screaming sobs and singing grew to a roar as we approached, those with me now entirely absorbed in the frenzy of @hra@@i@@@ was somathing that I had never seen before. Like an etching from one of those big, old volumes of "The Pilgrimls progress" unfolding before my very eyes! the bend that my companions had to thei@ bodies as they pushed on up the slope. MukaGida strayed a few steps to the right, then pushed back onto the trail, which still led around to the left. I followed @@@@ouœ@ :@ .@@@s I was feeling deeply sorry that this had come to Bapa Temi, or, rather, that Bapa Temi had come to this, -@g r@@i@hed the ladder and began to climb. My costume consisted of a white shirt, a pair of black dress slacks with the seat torn out, a sarong tied up short about the seat of my pants like Malay sash, and my Keds basketball shoes. When I reached the balcony the )use went wild with shrieks and sobs, and the whole place seemed to sag slightlyas I walked œ slowly forward. I had prayed at the Waesangkabun house this morning making clear my consecration as a mere tool of the will of God, and praying for wisdom. Now, as I felt the mass hysteria from I couldn't see well, but when I thought that it was the correct time I stepped forward and recognised the one who came to meet me as Temi himself. I took his shoulders as if to embrace him, but he led me on in amidst the deafening din. As I backed toward the right hand eastern wall many hands came upon me, so that I was mildly alarmed. The noise subsided, however, and Temi asked me to pray. I thought that I did @ so well. He then said some words and asked me to sing "Intan2 Dan Permata," which I did, but without the annointing. then he asked me to close in a prayer. When I had finished Temi asked to shake my hand. I didn't recognize Mura in the handshaking that followed. I prayed with some. Then we turned to examine the view. It was fantastic, and the coolness was exhilerating. Mountains, valleys, and more mountains! They brought chairs for Temi and I, and there we sat looking out over the vast, sunlit blues and greens of our planet. @ @ vastness of Buru, their world. It was as we sat thus that I told Temi how I loved him, and appreciated him and b@s his work and he burst into tears, and the Spirit moved between us. I wept. It was all so wonderful; the others sitting around or standing near us, that beautiful view, the sunlight. They called us below for coffee, which Mura served in large glasses with roasted peanuts. Someone @@ui brought her some sugar, and our coffee was sweetened. got that the Buruese will usually drink coffee without sugar, but they are often unable to serve coffee so far from the coast as this for a lack of sugar. I felt a light in Temi that I knew must be from God. He has 70 - 80 people here, about 40 being here for repentance from Bobo, a village on the coast near Ka'plat'mada. @ @ others are here to feed them, from Grialale, I believe. We talked and talked and enjoyed our fellowship. There was fine food. We had foxtail millet and plenty of pork and rice for lunch, which was served sometime along about the middle of the afternoon. I felt chilly, so Temi brought me out a sportscoat that Mother had given him long ago at Kate2. It fit me perfectly, and I felt fine to be so nicely dressed in this pleasant climate. and Either after our coffee or after our meal he brought me a pair of pants, which also fit well. In the afternoon I had it all out with him, and he explained that the people had misunderstood, as his only purpose in having people come by way of Grialale was merely to give his elders there an oppertunity to inform him of the approach of guests. He made it clear that the place was of no importance. I spoke plainly to him about heathen worship, and shrines. Hindu and Budhist shrines in Java. I explained to him how trees had not been allowed to grow near the temple because the heathen worshipped on mountaintops and in groves. He became defensive, and it upset him, but we closed the discussion is a prayer at my suggestion. Temi went for a walk alone, saying that I had bettar stay home because it would be muddy. It had rained fiercely this afternoon. I went and looked out of the western door onto a fantastic sea of clouds and mountain peaks. Then I walked out onto the earthen terrace and stood there in the stillness. After that I went back through the house, out the eastern door, and out in front a ways. There I stood awhile, and Timu came up to me, and said, "Neten gosa tirin, Bapa." I agreed. Bapa Temi came up the way from my left and reported that he had been discussing my return. He said he felt that the Waeapu route was a bit dangerous, and that his spirit didn't allow it. In the evening I knelt praying at my bedside, but i could hear girls whispering about me at the door, and knew that they were watching. After the evening meal and discussion we held a service. It wasn't until this evening that I began to speak, and I think I spoke a little over 20 minutes on John 4, reading from Topi's translation. Temi tacked on a lot afterward. He closed the service and sat talking. Then I excused myself and went to bed. Temi came and covered me with the sportscoat, which I had taken off, and even so I was terribly cold. I got uP to Pass water, and when I returned my stomach was sore. Ere the night was over I had to go again, but felt no pain this second time, though I got very cold. There was a brilliant moon over the western mountains, so bright that I could even dimly see the dirt terrace. I knew it must have been spectacular, that scene. Temi's ara guided me as I returned, and he asked me something about "seeing," or '@mon." I went back to bed, miserably cold under my thin cotten blanket. I forgot to mention that today I also was with Temi for an inspired tour of the kitchen, where Mura feeds the masses t.bl@*@œk@@"h place w@@tpy@v3ded w@$@m@@@,@@,@ % @ronœ@ low, finely laid out Burue@ E Japa was made of bamboo lathwork. Tue iiour Temi seems so human for a Buruese. Of course this is another world, entirely different from the coast. The people are different. The way Temi rushed me back to the kitchen was with with the light air of a prince displaying his establishment to a royal guest. No malu2 here! Wednesday, December 28, 1966, Banulalet. Heard praying in the early hours about this guest from Namlea. At some time about eight in the morning I was up and washed in the kitchen. Then I went out to examine the morning and to talk silently with the people. Talking to them I felt that Temi's two elders are working well. (I am attempting to continue this diary today, on the 30th, and seem to have lost all track of time.) The people from Bobo returned today. They never got away until midday, what with all their praying and weeping. I felt that a good deal of it was in the flesh. Bapa Temi introduced a young man named Wasan to me, who may come to Namlea with his wife to learn to read and write from me. They tell me that he is sPirit-filled. I and Temi Prayed over him and others who are to lead the Bobo work. He is to be the youth leader, The other two are to be elders. Temi received them all in his room ten at a time, ten at a time, to pray a farewell prayer. There were 44 of these people from Bobo all in all I think. In the afternoon some boys from Waebohit arrived in the rain. Thursday, December 29, 1966, Banulalet. I am suffering from constipation. Today i took bearings of Taglasmiten, Tefdula, and the sun. In the afternoon a fever rose in me and I went to bed. It rained hard outside. They built us a fire, but I couldn't seem to keep warm. of Kate2. Along before dawn I succeeded in relieving my bowels out on the bank to the west of the house. The moon was bright but had a halo. The rain had stopped, and it seemed warmer. I found Temi and Mura sitting at the table in the darkness when I came in, and Temi asked me if I had been aware that he had come and prayed for me. I returned to bed. Temi played the tiqkobi this afternoon, a traditional Jew's harp played in buv. @ere is an illustration of its shape: c Thisinstrumentismade of bamboo, and is played by jerking the string with the right hand while holding the end of the instrument(b.) with the left hand. The body of the instrument(c.) is held over the mouth, and the reed (d.) vibrates between the lips producing sound. Notes are changed by altering the capacity of the mouth and throat giving different resonances. B@@ealtwnes @d@re l@red, but Temi told me that they imitate nature sounds on the tingkobi, e.g. the roar of surf, bird calls, dogs in the chase, the sound of cascading waters, etc. The tatabuang, Qr, ccan xylophone, is also imitated. @hey were sing @ $ R@ @m@ @ @ rom'th@ @ @"@ and joined @hem. I couldnlt s@y for dining room, and the gi$,. @@@@i:wor@i@;about it all. Temi'says that the spirit is sure that it is the Holy Ghost, @@@p tears, and vice-versa. I fear that this is a mad confusion of adat and faith that will destroy there ality, and don't know that to @ ", "-@ In the early night the re@as@Ad . - @ne oank to the west @' Kate2. Along before dawn I succeeded in relieving of the house. The moon was bright, h7@"" @@@Erp@q@@@n the bank to the west warmer. I found Temi and Mura sitting @@@@@ @ I came in,- and Temi asked me if I had been aware that "-"@@I 5-d"""- I returned to bed. I had been c0+ @ @ @ @@ A %gy@l,'@ a pair of pants, my cotton blanket, sarong, and a cloth they @* covered me with.\@' Friday, December30, 1966, Banulalet. I was awakend by Temi while dreaming about luring fish at a pier somewhere. The sun was already up. I wrote a letter to Chor Lesnusa for the boys to take back. We ate some foxtail Millet and pork. Then I re-wrote my letter, asking him to cable Andi. I am still a bit feverish. Wrote a letter to Paul for Temi. I find Temi to be rather thick-headed, as is to be expected, of course, from his background. I can't seem to really get across to him. He has intolerable breath, and I noticed him coughing. I hope it isn't T.B. Maybe it's the flue, and that's what I have - from him. When the Bobo people were here there was a smell of puss in the air. A sickening- sweet smell, evidently of yaws. We prayed for a baby that they brought to us who was suffering from the "poro biji," apparantly half-dead with malaria. I was sorry to find that my watch had stopped in the night because of the lack of motion yesterday, when I was sick abed. When I asked the name of the tiqkobi again today a man played for me. He immitated the call of a Ka'plat'mada bird which doesn't exist here. I grew fed-up with Buruese music. It is almost more than I can bear. Their minor songs are all alike, evidently called kabata. Tiqkobi and crying (ee @ng ) Oh, for some classical! My soul yearns. I had chills along about midday, and am beginning to think that I may have malaria, as relieving my bowels didn't seem to help as it should have were I merely suffering from constipation. My right thumb grew numb despite the sportscoat, shirt, pants, socks and shoes. I added a cotton blanket and sarong, 1 and am still cold, but getting warmer. The day turned overcast. Mukagida's husband has a headache also. I read some chapters of Job. There was a part around chapter ten that seemed rather depressing to me. Monday, January 9, 1967, Banulalet. I had a horrific fever all day yesterday, which was still worse than that of the day before. I decided that I must have an alternating double dose of malaria last night when I found my spleen tightly swollen. my semi-delirious thoughts were continually drifting off into the Buruese language, and I struggled to quote English passages. Tuesday, January 10, 1967, Banulalet. I can barely see to write. I have been virtually blind for days now. I thought that it went away once, but maybe it was only my imagination, or only for a brief spell. I am very weak. I don't know what I could possibly have. My fever has lessened, though . Now it is almost completely gone. It only seems to come up a little now and then, like in the night. I have been very confused, and discouraged, and alone. NO one from the beach (coast) will seem to help me. I wrote so long ago. I was disappointed again yesterday, when a fellow left for Waebohit without letting me know of his departure in time for me to get a letter off to Willis. It has been terribly windy here these past days and nights. I almost thought that we'd lose the house last night. the sun is shining now. It's not noon yet. I don't know what to do. Maybe Temi is returning today. I don't know when I'll ever be able to get out of here again. I hope that all is well in Namlea. Bapa Temi finally arrived today. Banulalet, Wednesday, january 18, 1967. After all these days of suffering and waiting this fellow, Sefnat, finally turns up around two-thirty in the afternoon today with what appears to be some sort of muscle-trouble - vitamins and something else that was wrapped in part of my letter and he told me I was supposed to take two-a-day of. They were from Oom Chor Lesnussa. Instead of giving them to the women who arrived here yesterday, he had detained them another day by taking them with him to Waekatin-olon with him. I did get two fine lemons today, though. strange, having taken one each of my pills I have begun to perspire. Perhaps I am some better today, though the night was miserable with coughing. I still can barely see. My eyes sting and fill with tears. I found that the box that the big white pills came in was marked, "For intermuscular injection." How could you give an intermuscular inJection with large white tablets? I suppose that they may even be calcium for nursing women. Whatever they are, they must be very ancient. I only hope that the other, two-a-day pills are quinine, but I had imagined quinine to be quite bitter, and I can stand to chew these up in my mouth. They taste very old. I perspired some last night, though, and it seemed that when I coughed, perspiration broke out on my forhead. I had a very good breakfast of a fried dough of cassava pulp and bananas, and it was even a bit warm, but very late. I made a bitter glass of bitter Folgers instant coffee. Lunch came too early, with sticky, rottenly cooked rice, some pork fat that Mura scrounged, and some fried cuscus. Banulalet, Monday, January @@ 1967. My dizziness is bad enough to drive me crazy! My nervous system seems jittery. It must be the medicine. Perhaps I also made a mistake in drinking coffee this morning. I am at Kupe's house, where I have moved to flee the wind that almost blew Temi's house over. Someone has evidently tied a pig up in the only other room of the house (the inner room), and its grunts are almost unbearable. I was teaching the kids how to read this morning. My body is still perspiring off and on. Banulalet, Monday, January 2@, 1967. I am still recouperating, and am feeling stronger every day. Also, by God's grace, I am seeing better! I was worried that my fever may have done permanent damage to my eyes. I am about through with my cough now, but am a little worried about some lumps in my throat, but I think it will pass. I am writing this in the morning, and everyone, it seems, is leaving. At least so says Temi. About Bapa Temi, I mentioned to him how he stinks, and asked him if he were sick. For a few days his stink seemed to go almost or entirely away, but now he is stinking again as bad as ever. I could smell him stinking all the way from outside the house this morning! I certainly can't figure out what it is. All these people seem to stink, and their stink is almost like that of skunk! I have strong suspicions that the reasons have to do with the bath--or, more precisely--without the bath! Some LIFEBOUY might help matters. I never noticed Mama Mura stinking though. She is a fine woman. The sun is shining brightly. The day before yesterday, a handful of people arrived here from WaruJawa, Rana. They came up the trail bawling, it seemed to me that they were walking a bit @@@@k@r" @@@ for this type of a procession. some of them came and shook my hand later. one of them, a man named Mandur, spoke fairly good Malay, but yesterday got on my nerves with his over- message on Jesus' advent from Daniel 7. My heart still fluttered unsteadily when I stood up yesterday, but today I am feeling much stronger, and was up and about a bit in the morning. I am having trouble with the muscles around my shoulders, which feel as if they were about to tear loose at times when i have them in certain positions. It is evidently from long disuse. i can't see well enough to know, but it must be something like when you have Just gotten out of a cast after recovering from a broken limb. I have a hard time here with all the racket. Some time ago, when I was still on the quinine? pills, I pushed all the way to Temi's house to get away from the grunts of the little piggy that they brought back from Waebohit and put in the only other room of this, Kupe's, house. I hope that enough will leave with their kids today to give me some peace around here! For some reason this house and area is where the kids like to play, and the little boy who seems to be Kupe's - at least he stays here - behaves like a spoiled brat. (rewriting this later, I think the was Yopi, Neiqan's son). People are always standing in the doorway and blocking my light. But, thank God! I can read His word now! Banulalet, Wednesday, January 2, 1967. It is sunny now, in the morning. The gang finally left the day before yesterday, but Temi and Mura returned late yesterday afternoon. Obed took care of me while they were gone. @e brought cassavar-all chopped up, but soft- on Monday afternoon. Yesterday morning he brought cassava again, but it was hard. At noon he brought nothing. Then, in the afternoon, he and a smaller boy--Tohon, I believe--went off down the trail into the forest. By three or so I felt pretty hungry, so I went up to Temi's house to scrounge. There I found a woman with the fussy boy, and asked if there were any cassava. "Only raw cassava," was her reply, but she immediately went back to the kitchen and proceeded to cook some for me. I sat in the kitchen waiting, and when I asked her name she told me that she was Neiqan. She seemed to have T.B., and had a hacking cough. The wind was howling through the place. Obed arrived while I was eating, and when I asked if he had been hunting cuscus he said, "No." Later, when I asked again he said that he had been. He escorted me down the hill to my place at Kupe's house. @eiqan said that he had @aten before he had left on his hunt, so I asked him over and ever why he hadn't brought me anything to eat, but he answered ne!er a word. I was very happy yesterday when Mura brought me home about five ripe bananas, but I had them all eaten up before morning. I can't seem to stomach their old, dry pork. Mura brought some rind last night with my rice and cassava, and it tasted terrible, so that I only ate one little piece. It was cassava again this morning, with some sort of greens. It seems that a girl is " but mr d@rim@ Mura @Lime this in Malay af@N'%/@%@%@ a girl jok@@ abm@,me@@@@@/@%@ coming along, in Buruese. This made me glad, because I love shrimp. I had some once here before, fried. Banulalet,January 24, 1967, Thursday. I had a belly-ache in the morning. I relieved my bowels, but it was all hard stuff. I couldn't eat the breakfast of cassava and vegetables that was brought to me. I am reading 1 Corinthians. I slept some. I ate some hot rice porridge for lunch, but couldn't finish it. Temi and Mura are gone to the fields for the day. A woman- Neiqan, I believe--brought cassava but I had to reject it. My Pulse shot up to the nineties in the afternoon. It must be malaria trying to return. I took one of those little yellow pills that I am almost out of. I crave a baked banana. / @ / 1 I am still so happy to be able to read God's word. Then my troubles seem to fade. Last night I got one small eel and two shrimp, and it must iuve been the eel that made me sick to my stomach.However, I also ate a bit of cold papeda at noon, which I couldn't finish, and which went down like lead. Banulalet, Friday, January 27, 1967. The sun is shining early this morning. My left hip or thy bone is very sore. I gues that my thies got that way because I have lost a lot of weight, and all that is left is skin and bones, and it hurts those bones to support my weight on the hard surface of the mat without any muscle or fat padding between. I took one more of those little yellowish pills last night. This morning my pulse @as only 52. I had cassava and some sort of mushroom or other fungi for supper last night. I ate better. I had also relieved my bowels again. @ @@œ@ @ @ @ @ @@i8aF @!5 4 % $#@@s,'@ @ w @ r!g'@@@@"@B@ % 5i @@'$@@j@@@@@w@"""-, Mandur and Obed are back from the fields. I seem to see better this morning. I asked for @ @/ some hot bath water this morning, but now a terrific wind has come up, and rain. I took the last yellowish pill. Now I have only the big, white ones. I don't know what they are, or how to take them. I only hope that they are for malaria! My Pulse came down to about 50 before lunch. Banulalet,@i4@day, January 29, 1967. It was a windy morning with plenty of noise from the pigs, as the woman who tries to raise the little pig in the next room is back. The big pigs were trying to get into the house to see what the snorting was about. Last night was so contrastic to the night before, when I guess I had the house completely to myself. I am getting better and better, and was cassava and salt for breakfast. Then they ran out of cassava, and the people from the fields didn't return in the @orning. I was @iven a dish of so@g@ rice. Then Obed and Mandur brought home some cuscus and shrimp. I didn't know about the shrimp. They only had two plates 68 cassava pulp between the five of them. I didnit dream that cassava pulp stores were so low, Nor did I know w@at was going on, and grew over eager, so that dandur went and asked for some cassava pulp for me. My rice by now9 is used up. we didn't know what @as going on, I repeat. Mama Mura soon arrived with plenty of cassava pulp cooked in a bamboo, and boiled shrimp. It was very good for tsese troubled times. The people from the fields had promised to come today, but didn't arrive and didn't arrive, until they sent two @irls down in desperation. Before the two @i@ls got on their way, however, a little @irl of only about four or so arrived. They couldn't seea to get any information whatsoever out of her, but the others soon arrived with our cassava. I had cassava, salt, c@scus meat and b*ja@ greens for supper, That was a more @@d . well-rounded meal. I was thankful. I had been reading from the @inor prophets, but couldn@t finish Malachi before it was dad@ Temi is hav@ng trouble with an elder of Grialalet. It seems that the elder tried to cheatayoun@mano*'@@@@Ranaoutofhis clothes on some kind of @@rwese char@es havin@ to do with women. It waan't aoo clear. Yesterday the @irls told us that e@@ee someone had been laughing at them down at the little stream, and there was wild specu@@tion about demons and vani@hing men qra@;hilang2). I suggested that perhaps it was the madman who recently speared two w p @@ii,eared into the jungle, but they argued that it was orang hilang2. I had cassava and bajam greens this morning for breakfast. Then I shaved, greased and combed my hair, made my bed, etc. I was late for the service, and found the door closed when I arrived at Temi's house, so I sat outside, alone. Temi spoke. After the service I looked at his papers. We were talking about going to Namlea I later went down to the "pig house" alone. I relieved my bowels, but had to "dig it out." I had to stop to rest over and over on both the way down,and up. I had had a missunderstanding with the kids, and was weeping and praying as Mura cane with ny lunch. I gave one each of the wiute pills toJohannes and Mandur's mother-in- law, who are both sick with malaria after returning from the coast. I am reading 1 Peter. Temi came, and I read to him from several passa@es of the @ibl@. I fanally read to him @%@@44@/@A%y ab.,t th, . t,,, @s Lif . I . @, . ai,ti.,ti.. b,t., . t, . , . d th, s@irit and he missunderstood me, went outside, and sp@@e in anger, saying not to go against tears, not to go against him, God would show me, etc. I fe@l very bad a@out the situation, especially because the ruleis "quiet at @@uu@alet." All left, Mura saying, "Beta sen@ su@a," over and over as Temi talked. I read on.to myself. s@mulalet, monday, @anuary 30, 1967. ' I am learning fast that you can't tell Temi anything. @esterday he practically threw a fit when i spoke to him about tears not i / @ @ being all the same as the spirit. Then he went and sat at a house at the south end of the place and talked in Buruese to those service, I could hear him going on and on about tears and weeping. Then this morning, he came with Mura, and said more. He said that I had said not to cry too much or something, which I denied. But,now that I think about it, perhaps I did say somethung like that. It all ended up with Temi going out and saying not to talk about tears to him anymore, and to hurry up and get well so that I could go home. Of course, I realize now, that I had expected too much to expect him to understand the finer things, he is of such a primitive background. Then he went out back again this morning, and the others followed, and there were more heated words. Once, when he was talking to me this morning, he spit all over my face. I have often been on the receiving end of such showers, baths, with him. I know he does it unintentionally, but the whole business makes me sick. His teeth are rotting so that he can't keep his spit from flying when he gets carried away in his talk. I dreamed last night that I was with Mother in @ Spain! I long to see her. Mura and @emi left for the fields. I had lunch around three in the afternoon. It consisted of cassava, a little bit of some sort of @reens, and some better terasi9 which had tomatoes in it. * @"andur and Obed came home this aft#rrnoon @elling 0*' cuscus, and dhen I asked them they told me that they had sotten one. I had cuscus, salt, and cassava for supper. They brought bananas to the woman who is sick @%@@/@%%@%@@/@%@%%/@%%/@%@s/%@/ in the other room with malaria after her trip to the coast, and I could smell their temptin@ fra@rance, but there was none for me. ' Banulalet, Shursday, January >1, 1967. There were the terrible sounds of swine all around, and other noises, but I slept in till 7:30 or so. Itiswindy, and hasbeen windy throu#@lthe ni@ht. They brought a litt@e dish of fried cassava and some @@@%% hot w&ter. our cassava supply is low. I canlt under@@- stand it, with people returning from the fields just yesterday evening.Now, as I write later, Obed tells me ti@t no one came fromthe fields yesterday. get I saw a woman with a fodo. I %as satisfied, however, when Obed served some cassava pulpr-For a change-- fried cus cus meat, and some type of vegetable %/ ;/ I went dom to the pig house is the afternoon, and there I relieved my bowels and prayed. Now, as 1 write back in my bed, Obed sits beside me and tells me, % i supper tonight or bred@fast tomorrow morning," when he had all day to go and get cassava at the fi@lds. I ur@ed him to @@ several times, but *@-wee in vain. The woman in the next room is ver@ sick with malaria. Now she has moved out into this room, and is nn the de@o2 across from me. I only pray that perhaps yet, someone will come with food today, but my watch says 5:50 P.M. they don't like to returnifrom the fields in the mornins, so it is no telling when I will get my next meal. I ate almost more than I could nold for supper! There was boiled cassava, salt, fried cuscus with plenty of tomatoes. I love tomatoes! I think this Obed could get under m% skin after awhile. At the evening meal, which we took at T@@i's house, Obed said that the reason that no one c&me with food was that they expected him to come to get s@ee@*@. the cassava. The girls had first said for him to come later in the day. Ranu@@let, wednesd@y, J@nua@y 1, 1967. "l'en people passed through @@b fro@ Grialalet tod@Y with damar @*,@ to sell at Le@s@ la, so I @rote Willis again, and @lso dispatched my old letter to him. e@e@-@@@@1@-@@@@@-- Obed and Tohon had gone to the fields by moonlight in the night. Tuey arrived ba$@ today but never offered me anythin@--if there was anything to offer-though I saw Yohannes was chewing su@ar-cane. I had some fried k&ssava-@ut not enough ofit--for breakfast. Finding h@@ had none, I sbared some of mine with her. Later on the that Haiahor-@he sick woman- - woman @ho is making mats brought something @)re to her. / Though they told @e it wa@l't, I ate what was @vidently purple ko@bili w@th salt and red peppers for 1\@ch. One piece was bitter, and T couldn' t eat it. Anothe@-the las@-was too slimey, and I @anaged to s@ggle it out and throw it @*y. on *p w@y ou@- ' I had @@@e been eating in T@@'s hous@-,I went into the room and got some clean socks out of my tin. It se@s to me that my passport and papers and things i@ve been ' looked through, and I hope that none are lost. I had seen Obed and others loo@ng through @'emi ' s things while he was @one, and resented it. i I found that @v heart was beating erratically once when i was about to e@:ercise my ' legs. I was sunning m@self with my shirt off when @t started to rain, so I went in and . lay down. I found my pu@se to be about 54. I must still be far frem well. My heart is Ter@ weak. Obedy-@-fl can yet have the least confidencein him, he says yes to ever@thing-- ' @ells me that t,ere is only a little of this purple kombili - @r whatever it is-@hat the ! Buruess call maqat--left, and that the cassava is very nearly used up. I do hope that I can @ somehow get out in time. ! For supperl hadplentyof cassava, squash, salt, ana-i @mnr::so@e u@J@ @@-e@us. When I s@Y"cassava"I generall@ mean"boiled cassa@a," unless otherwise specified. ' I was teaching a woman to sing "0, 0, Tuhan tolong saja," until I was too sleepy to sing anymore. Banulalet, Thursday, February 2, 1967. Banulalet, Thursday, February 2, 1967. Things got off to a late start today. There was rain in the night. w@nd. We had an oTercast dawn. the swine were trying to get in the door over and over during the night. This place is very noisy. Had cassava and a mixture of salt and red peppers for breakfast, which I was served at around nine or so in the morning. @br lunch i had cassava, squash, a@d terasi at three fifteen by my watch. ' i don't trust Obed a bit any more. de said th@s morning tbat the food was allggone. I asked, "where?" and he said, "Both here u@d at the fields." @n@n two women left for the fieldsl understood them to say thattherewere tow fodo'so*'food left here. There was a cold wind all d@Y lon@. I went do m to the npig house," but couldnlt relieve my bowels. I finally found the daesaqkabun trail away back up the hill to this side of the "pig house," so it does not go by the pig house like Obed told me it did at all. Obed said that there wereno tomatoes whenl asked forF@@ acouple--in the evening, I think it was--but when they served me tomatoes and some pieces of fried eel in the evening he told me that the tomatoes had been here since yesterday. @e also told me that no one came home from the fields today, but when I asked where the e@l was from I was told that Neiqan brought it today. Ach! He said t@nt Mura is coming at midday tomorrow, and that "Bapa" has called him to come to the fields tomorrow, I surely hope that he is right about Mura, I miss her se@@ice so much. Meals were close to re@ular when she !as here, and she always tried to provide something for me besides cassava and salt. I could talk to her. @his mealtime irregularity is so hard to take for one trying to recouperate from lon@ @@"œS@; @ @3 @e@"@F,@@@@"F@.œi@r @,@1@@"@ @@e@@@tl@@@@"b@f@,s@@ @ @a: @' N:œ $f@@""" @iulalet,Friday,FB@rt@ry3,l967. Neiqa4, the tubercular with the hacking cough, is preparing breakfast this morning, but I sat up readin8 till about eight in the morning in @emi's old, windy house, and there evidently wasn't even a @ire started. A wanan had come, but only to sweep. There was no one tnere, but when @opi came and called for hisq[na" and started to cry w@en he found that she wasn't there, I heard other children tell him not to cry, for she was gone to the wwae." It is now 8:24 by my watch, which is probably behind, if anything. I set it by the sun when it s@opped, but it must be pretty close to right. Obed left only this morning for the fi@lds, evidently *ithout eating, and I somehow feel very happy to have him gone. The night was very cold, but the %rind died dom. They made a fire in the only other room in the house, and the @oke ii'ritated my respiratory system. The morning is overcast. I succeeded in relieving my bowels, but it was all hard stuff. @ I don't think that I'II ever understand why these people don@t improve their conditions. @hy they have absolytely no inventiveness. How, say, they can stoop to raisin. a pig in their bedrooms. dhy none of them do somethiw@ to windproof the@@ houses a.ainst the cold when clothing is so scarce. It consisted ol'plenty or cassava, salt, and @round up red peppers. I finally got breakfast at 9; 35 by *Y watch. @It is now past three in the afternoon, and there is stillnno lunch. I hear a plane passing in the distance to the north. My watch said 4:1@ P.M. ere I t my lunch. It was cassava and salt. Supper came ' afterdark.Itwassalt and cassava V.@i s@ocmfo : e] i ofthepelita.I didn'tfinish *y supper, It b,: . -- - - -. It was windy, cold and overcast all day, but the sun came out a little bit after breakfast. @nulalet, Saturd@y, Febrt@ry 4, 1967. It was a cold night. In the early morning the swine were squ@aling li"ke mad. They feed the hig pi@s @t TBnils house in the morning. Ther@ they feed tF@s little monster in the bedroom at night and early in the @orning when the big pigs are hungry, so th*t the one that squeals so badly spends the ni@ht trymng to knock the door down. Banulalet is certainly no p@ace of peace to me! It seems ironic tbat I have to go down to the "pig house@ to get away from their squeals @hen that is actually where they are supposed to belon@. I heard a plane flying past to the north at 9:20 A,M,, but there was still no food. Breakfast did come at around 9:45, and consisted of cassava and salt, but there was also sometype of jungle fungi with it. At >: 30 a woman--Haiaho, I believ@--comes and asks Yohannes where the waja is for making a fire, sits down on the opposite bed, and says she is hungry! I had lunch at 4:15 P.M. again. But I had a real treat this time, though there wasn't enough of it. They were out of cassava, so they fried some plain cassava pulp, and it was really good. They didn't use any salt, but I begged for some and used it, and it really improved matters, of course. They fry the cassava pulp up in little cakes. one or two women have arrived from the fields, but only @ith @@a@eda." Imagine tbat, when cassava is sapposed to be so scarce, and there is no meat here whatsoever. They assured me @@it Temi and Mura will arrive later, but I am in doubt with the sky so overc&st and the west wind so strong. After break@ast tod@Y the sun had come out, and I had @one walking dom the waesan@abun trail, I feel now that I can understand somewhat the beliefs in @anishing people of the forest. @ith the combination of bi@ds, wind and insects, I myself heard voices many times. I read from the acts and prayed and sang. I went do@n, and then up to a level stretch, and that was about as good as I could do. I find that I am still very weak, mainly in my heart 8@@ @8@d: My heart mostly@ I think. When I stoo@ up straicht my pulse seemed to about double. When-1 sat or lay it dropped @ay down. once @ timed it at 67. @hen I !as walking it must have reached 150 or so at times, ana my heartbeat was erratic. I had to stop and rest so @@ehr much. It's 5;23, and Mama Mura and a girl just ar@lved got long @;0 with cassava., I am e*@r@e@e@ overjo@@d to see her - greatly in hopes, of cours@,of an improvement in diet. God help us! Waebohit, Thursday, Februar$ 9, 1967. @ After my last entry on Saturday I ate a supper of cassava and vegetables, if I reme@ber correct@y. on Sunday morning I went up and joined the others at Temi's house for the morning @ee**@e serqice. I prayed the opening prayer, led the service, and delivered an impromptu @ermon on "The 8eed Growing in Se@ret." I think ti@t t@ey underst@od my @uruese pretty well. we had the cuscus that they brought yesterday boiled for lunch. After a day of good COIn@J8@iO@Shili with `@@ni--wA@-Mi-e@@@eed-@e@l@>i-@@@@@e@i-@@@ @ -with w@Oom I 8@ on good terms a@ain-.APer, De@i, Wand@ng and@Fosesarri@edin the e@ening and said that Willisis at Wa@- bohit and wanted them to bring me back tomorrow. I told t@em that I was very weak, but they i@ laid hands on me and pr@yed for God to give me strength tomorrow. A@er and Demi are N@@latu. A@e@ came with Willis. Demi is the acting pastor of I@ ang. @andang is a youth from Waebohit, and Moses is still rather a boy. @@ley brought four of the kind of candy bars that come in the brom wrapper and s4y "Nut" something on them, canned goods, two kinds of vitamine, and malaria pills. I was @ overjoyed, of course. I had been so in need of vitamin "C". I ate a half can of corned beef with my cassava that ni@ht. t@hen I was ready to sleep I called for Amer, who dela@ed and delayed comins. They were visiting @bawana") with Temi till late. u$en he did come @ asked him to arran@e for someone to ' ahead with me early in the morning before breakfast, because I knew that I would be so slow, and didn@t want to waste precious daylight. He reluctantly said that he a@reed with my request when I pressed the issue. My plan was for @ / the others to follow with food later, as I didn't want to wait here for another 9:00 A.M. breakfast. As it turned out on Monday morning we finally ended up eating first, and never got away before it was 8:@0 by my watch, and even then i had to start out down the trail alone. Amer had been talking with @emi. He said that he "atur"-ed for me last night. 'dlat only served to fire my righteous indi@nation the more. It is not easy to live with the Biruese. my weakness really hit me @F@e@-w@- whes we had cro@sed the first stream after the turn-off, and i developed a pain in my belly. i could barely walk. At the Waerapat I ate some rice and a cold can of soup. I was extremely weak on the ascent beyond the Rapat, and the ascent was extremely steep. It must have taken me one to @@ two hours, but I have forgotten now. We followed along the mountain ridge at high elevation. The skies became overcast to the point where it was so dark th@at it became hard for me to see. I prayed for the rain to keep off, and it rained on the left and on the right, and when we got up ahead the trail seemed wet as if it had rained there also, but we were dry. Allafternoon we walked along the ridge, then descended to the Wae Tina vb@+ 4@@i@0 ford yet another small stream @@ cross yet one more @A little ridge ere we drew near. It got dark on this little ridge, and Amer had to lead me like a blind man past the steep @@@ke slopes and through the underbrush. We didn't actually reach the WaeTina herself that night, but % ended our descent at the @ little Waehiri where I bathed, and / near where the others found the little walang in which we spent the night. / /@ / We had some coladium, cassava and canned corned beef for supper. It was cold during the night from the sibu thuat came off the river. de were awake before dawn, and got ! /$ @ @%%%/ Amer 8Tidl 80t off around 7:@J A.i"i. After eating some pastey rice and cassava@ @/@ @#@%@/%@N@N%@@S/W@ @ ' .t,.ith...--,d,@ .f,.@- @,, .a@ .,.t @,@-@@, .@y was rocky, and I dA@ for@@t Iny shoes. @"tey ot@@ers caught up with us while I was relieving my bowels at a small stream. I am @@@/@@@@@s@@ I was not doing as well today. long We climbed a @%g@ ascent and followed a ridge all afternoon. Then we descended to the Waenama, which we forded,and / scaled the precipitious ascent to the ridge behind Liang, where it was misting. I was stronger this time. I was running off to my bowels on the descent to Liang, and was understandably surprised when I was called by the familiar voice of Derek Behuku as I was crouching down at my last squatting place by the trail. We crossed the headwaters of the Nalbesi and ascended to the village of Liang, where we entered Andi Hukunala's brother's house. There they served us a fine meal of dried cuscus meat, fried dried pork fat, and coladium. Then I had to let Wandang show me to the jungle for a last B.M. Then I went to bed. Next morning, Wednesday, we had more fried pork fat for breakfast, plus fresh corn. I left with Derek at about 8:00 A.M., and was at Waebohit in about four hours time. I grew a little emotional at seeing Jack, but didn't break. It was after fording the stream that I looked up and saw him standing at the top of the rise in @ 4 @ white jungle helmet, just like in the movies! We shook hands and then climbed on up the steep side of the chasm to the village. There was wonderful food at Oom Chor's i was glad to see him. He had also been sick with malaria, and the reason that he had been so long in helping me was that he himself had been unable to find any pills. We had good fellowship all through the afternoon, and a delicious cup of instant coffee in the evening. on my trek from Banulalet I had spoken sharply to my four companions on several see@e occasions. The last was when they were all laughing hilariously at Jack's "pose." I informed them in no uncertain terms that we were not posing Ambonese, but were here to preach the gospel. I had also had an argument with Amer, when I told him to go ahead and inform Willis of my arrival before we reached the Waenama, and he was in agreement with me, and ' me. I saw in this that old Oriental lav of the pack, and I was disgusted to think that he would deliberately disobey me when we were nearing Liang, and had no more need of his help. An undisciplined nature is anathema to me. As I rewrite this later I should like to add that I have found that there is a rule with the buruese that they do what feels right at the moment to them rather than what they reason to be right with their mind. This morning we had Quaker oats for breakfast, plenty of coffee with milk, fried bananas, "pancakes," etc. I worked w@@@-B@ on a translation of John 1 with Oom Chor from mid-morning till noon, and then a big part of the afternoon. We had coffee in the afternoon and I sat with Jack for awhile. Desen came and sat in the doorway. We had an horrific rainstorm. Leksula,D@day, February 12, 1967. I don't recall any special events on the ninth but on the tenth Oom Chor went to Leksula, so I attempted to do some translating on my own. I suppose thatI did fairly well for a beginning, but I am still suffering from a short vocabulary. By the ninth and tenth Jack Willis was getting pretty bored. He can't @e@ relax. On the tenth we received word that they wanted Jack for services at Leksula, so, on the eleventh I was forced to leave against my desire with Jack, as Oom Chor and Mama Doka wanted to be at Leksula when the Waihuri II arrived so as tol ar : i A@ ; adl i 0 @@ : that Leksula who told us thlat a cable had @r@@ @@@ii . """ " -- the Waehuri II was to leave for Namlea and Leksula that same day (the I1th). If they had only come yesterday and told us we could have stayed on until the thirteenth or so. ae didn't reacn Lek@ula until about one in the afternoon--approximately four hours from Waebohit. the sand was so hot in the village that I couldnlt bear to walk on it in my bare feet, so I had to uait amon@ the staring shhool-kids until " ack went and got Derek to bring me back my shoes. de wentoon up to the empty pastorate instead of to Bertls house, where jack was sitting. I hid in the bedroom with my backl ainst the wall to get away from the staring eyes, but even they crowded around out i @it b Aoo walls ou@side the @oom at @@ peep in at the cracks. Ucu Yom came and brousht my walking-stick. In the end Jad@ arrived, so I got off my haunches to eat a lunch of fried bananas and corned beef and drink @escafe and sweetened condensed milk for cream . @ack had evi i i dently sent my an inferior @rade of corned beef to me at Banulalet, and betrayed himself wheu he started ra@ing about the assets of the brand we were eating. In the afternoon we went to the Pancoran Besi, and there I had a bath at my own leasure with my own soap for the first time in quite awhile. On the way home we neard a motsr, ana discovered that it was the D.N.N. boat from Ambon. I ate m tremendous amount of rice, coladium, fish, kuah and pork for supper, and also drank two glasses of warm, watered-down, sweeten@d, condessed milk for supper. 1 had felt ashamed to have *izished the rice and the pork, especially because Jack left me at the table alone to go ask about the boat. @hen I found that they had an @m eating in the ba , af er m i d a friendly chat I fear that her intentions had more to do with Ilis' - u@h we -- ra. I went visiting with Bert solisa in the afternoon. It was interesting. de wan 0 take aprahu-load of copra to @1urabaja this year. In the evening c.A. serviceJack spoke en the telt, "Iam the way,.t@e truth, and the life." It was dry. In the same ser@ice I testified about my sickness@ @lurney, and salvation. Bert Left @e-S$@@-eem@ for @awiri in the night to get some bananas to send @e on the Waihuri II to dona in Ambon. I got up and washed a bit late this morning. Jack got up and pissed on the bedroom floor, and @ feel sure that the women in the kitchen heard him. I couldn't find any place to piss,myself, and didn't want to do waat jack had done u d embarras myself. de had"@u@ker Oat4' honey, sweet milk, fried bananas and cassava for brea@fast, plus Nescafe, of which @ drank two @lasses.@uit was this morning, the morning of the l2th. @uring bred@fast I ad@ed Jadc if there were any women about. @e said, "@0." I then went to the empty east room and started to piss, but was interrupted by the arrival of a woman in the hut. I stood up and went out, and she asked me what I was loo@,ng for. I saw that there were two women sitting on the bench. p@@ee* wondering, I asked Jack, and he said tbat one of them had @een sitting there all alo@@. Dear me! I don't think tbat ahhf saw, but feel sure that if she indeed were sitting there she must have heard. I got my uL@nce before church, however, when All had left to get ready. In the morning service Jack spoke from Acts 1:8 about testifying. It was a @ood message for the people, but Jack, as usual, was rather dry. I was singing well this morning. I had p@enty more for lunch today@ rice, cassava, coladium, pork, some fried pieces of pork--which @e@e@-@-@@@ which I later finished off completely, and sweet-potato stew. In the evening service Jac@ spoke on La@arus and the Rich Man @ He seeued under great pressure, and @@-@@@-@- it was hot there, on the platform, with the pressure lanterns. After the sermon he came and sat beside me and s@@@-t@a@-he-@@@@-a expressed a consciousness of evil presence to me. Just then it seemed that all hell broke loose outside. One 0@ the villa@e elders came into the church compound and whipped at a boy with a rattan rod. There had been crowds of people gathered outside the church walls to hear the sermon, and this act of the elderls caused them to stampede like a herd of cattle. ( -we later heard that this action on the pert of the'@rotestants" only served to make the boy's motner an@@y and threaten to "masuk Sidang. L@@sula,Monaay@?egruaryl@l@z7. It is now past 4:@J P.w., and there is still no *@ihurill. the D.@.N. ooat left ou@ this morning. @oke Lesnusa is completely backslidden in such a short ti@e, and tried torunoffwith@@@woneofthe D.@.N. boat's crew members - a married man! @er older brotuerorsister-@dont@@low w@uch--put herin thekitchen and nailed the door snut to keep her f@sm @etting away. It seems that Sam Soukota jilted ner and tanja-ed so@e other girl some other place without even letting her know t@lt their affair was o@f. I don't have much prestige around here beside Jack, who they really t@@e to be somebody! It has really been a fine experiesce being here forhim,'outheis so al@ious about @etting home. 1 t@isk that this anxioussess of his overrides everythin6 else in him so that he can't e@3e@ really enjoy in mself. In a way he @ets hard to live with, out with my more Irmber nature we get along ok@y. I hope that tAis e@@@@@@e@-- waiting cosdition doan't last lon@. 1 just bury myself in study, prayer, or trasslation, and donit even notice, but it is hard of Jack, who lives differently. de had a fine brea@fast this morning of hot fried @pAM, honey, coffee, fried @ coll8dium and basanas, and salt. There was milk with our coffee. I much prefer colladium to cassava. Bert solisa was back from Kawiri today. Emo Behuku took Jac@ ana w@it to the police with my pass. They @ave my pass back, but held willis'. the wonders never cease! I read some today. All our food has Oeen without vegetables, and we feel that it is because they sare afraid to serve t@em to u@, so Jack dropped a hint before lunch. But even then we nad no luck! bur lunch consisted of fried pork,and potatoe-and-e@g soup. jack went to bed in the afternoon, but I st@yed up and studied Kevelation. I also visited with Oom Chor. Tinus and Derek arrived and took Jack up to see the burial cave U@at 0@@ @e had told me about, long a@o. I read on alone. @hen Jadr returned we had fried bannaas, and were about to leave for our bath when Jack aiscovered ti@t the to@le was set for supper! Just after we *L@d fi@ished @ 1 those tiananas. Th@re was saltless goiled chicken and more fried pork. jack was waiting for me in the front room, and we wese off for our baths at lAd about 6:4@ P.M. @e had heard a shot earlier, and now we heard another on the trail, and met Eu@, Derek, Onko Senb9 and Tinus - who had a peeled pineapple, which he sliced is two and ea"e to Jack a"d me- It was sour, but I was glad for the fresh fruit. Wwy were unsuccess *'u1 in their hunt. Problem: I*"inally@ottoo full and felt likei was abouttopop! At sea @ff South @uru Coas @ @hursday, February 10, 1967. The @a@huri II arrived ada@or t@o ormore ago with Crai@ W@llis and A@di Hukusala aboard. Andi had to@en the liberty of coming from Namlea, and had my suitar aboard. I later found that he had also brought eight of my Bibles to sell at a better price in $ SOuth Buru, when i had brought t@em to Hamlea from dpbon, p@yis@ my own money for them as a service to the @a@lea and @orth Buru work. I had @iven him instructioss to sell them at a modest price and use the money to live on, and i@ he felt the leadin. 0@ the Lord to present them to certain individuals to do so. It now seems tkat Ardi had othfr ideas. At about nine oclock tius morninc @erek @ehuku came and said for u@ to hurry, because, "the boat is about to leave," so we ate our lunch at about ten. ?nen we waited and waited, sut the @ainuri II never left until nearly three in the afternoon. Andi @@ a@soiaboard, and, on a hunGh, I asHed Crai@ if he had seen Ardi wearing a wristwatch at any time after they ik@d left Namlea, and he said he had. ahes oe descrived it his description perfectly fit the watch that I had left with A@di, telling him never to wear it except, if @ecessary, during serv@ces. He had been careful sever to wear it in my presence in Leksula or aboard the ooat. I called An@i @ unulala, anu he owned up to havingit, and returnedit to me.I found that hehad also taken myl"laskdi@Rt, @pd but that one item I was never to see a@ain. Ambon, %riday, @ebruary 17, 1@@7. we arrived at Gudan. A$am at about seven or ei@ht this morning, r@mming the smaller boat thœt we tied up alon@side of, and damaging its roof. I uanag@d to ma@e it ashore without getting hurt. It had been raininb all morning, and I had been sitting atop the cabin with my pandanus mat over me, w@*@*@@-m@-@@@wees arran@ing my @lossary of Buruese wo@ds. It seems that someone tried to pick my poc@et then, but failed. I had spent the ni6ut in Da Luhukai's cabin, out it had rained, and the roof ind leaked li@e a sieve. the dec@ above had cargo pil@d all over it, u@i I hate to think of just what @11 mi@ht nave been polluting my @e@@@@a- involuntary bathl My @u'tar bvt through without getting wet, out my belly @@t upset, and I felt miserable my the time 1 was sitting of the ca@in-top in the morning, @ur provisions had consls*ed of cold ooiled ca@sava that was alittle"bitter and some canued sardines, all of whic@ were soa@ed by the Qrip@isgs from t@t cei*ing during the ni@ht. It is hard to descri@e my miseraole@ess is words, out I can still remember the feeling as I rewrite this diary now, two years later. Jac@ @ored an oplet t@ the churcn for ap2OJ.@here we left the bulk 0*' our baggage, to@ing only wimt we needed with us to @ate2.t@d@ Jack, Craib, @ere@ and 1 got of a PaSO bus and got off at Galala. @e paid @p7.50 perperson, wr@chis thePaso fare. @D@m G@lalawe took aPrahu toKate2, whicn we dlartered mrAp$@ Sister @iilis and the studests came out to meet us and commented on how tsin 1 was. @n@ sun was shining @ri@htly by them. I found that my typewriter from @is@apore was waitinb for me! @ate2, Saturday, @ebruary 1@, 1967. I tzink .nat it was early today &lat I wrote to Wither. de went to town and got the rest 0@ our @ear, leavine Our p@SSeS @t the police,e@e@@e@r and forgetting my @ u tar. un our way home @e s@opped at my place, and I got out a new pair oi KEDS. rhen we stop ped to buy ice at Ma@iika. The truck west off the shoulder along past paso, sut @-@e@ek another truc@ stopped and puiled us out. @e are navis@ Im@rveloas meals. In the afternoon I froze some @ce-creun with Jack, a@d we @ad pleuty of it witn delicious chocolate topping. Then Craig and ; went fishinb. @e went fis@@ng a@ain in the night, Crai@ and I, and cau@tt 11 or more of those little barracudas oetween us using the @illis's li@rt rods and reels. de had a pressu@e laatern with us to attrac@ the fish. A little before midnight Jac@ came down to the pier and flashed his electric torch about (his flashli@@t) and called out, and we ret@rned home, arriving home before midnid@t. de had been far out when Jack had called us. It had bees a lovely night, and the sea had bees dead cal@. de k@d gotten started with oait $iL@t Solomon patiwael @ave us. @hen we % : got in near the canoe landis@ a little swordfish jumped @@@e ri@ht isto our canoe, attracted by the li@lt. The barracudas had only oeen bitisg well is the be.ining, and @ @ fewer and fewer as the evenis@ wore on. @e had driftea far out by the ti@e Jac@ called for us. @hen we got to the house Jac@ explained @ate2, Suaday, @ebruary 19, 1967. Jack preac@ed in the morning service. @ente Baba made a roast for luscn. It was another wonderful meal, of course. Tomatala spo@e in the egening service. Kate@ Monday, @ebruary R@ 1967. I stayed home and worked on my Buruese @lossary today. @ate2, @uesday, @ebruary 21, 1@@7. I west to @mbon wlth Jack, Mary, and Craig. @hey went for blood tests, tNt I refused to take one for fear of hepatitis or otuer infection because of the unsanitary conditions. @illises said that they were @sing the same needle on everybody, but used separate needles on the @ill@ses. I went to the police and asked for my pass. Borrowims Rpli@i from mary I sent a cable to Carltilom. I went to the @rahu harbou@ tiut was unsucces@@@l in findinb transportation, thoa@h someone nad said tiut t@ere was a perahu leaving for Buru today. There is evidently a new man at the little customs shack there. I bou.nt a candy oar and talked to a man at '@3k0 @he, and to a woman on the sidewalk. @here were a coup@e of smali boys that walked alonb be@tind me once, and seemed to be chanting somethinb that was intended as an insult @Q me, so I s@@ng around and struck them both with one blow. @e returned to Kate2 and had luncn with Paul and Oom souisa, who were tuere to teacn today. Afterward I told t@em bout b@@nulalet and the s*@@@@*e@-*@-@@@@- present situation in b"uru. I@ the rest ol" the afternoon I worked with Teda Yom on my Buruese @lossary, out @otno farthert@an the "B's". Crai@ was too sick to g0*"ls@@n@, althou@l they said that the Dlood test showed ne@ative on malaria. hate@ @ednesday, @@bruary 2@ 1907. I typed up verses from Danieal about the fourth beash. Willis was @)ne 06œ to town y@in tras mornin.. I wrote a letter to paul about a meeting with APdi @mrunala. @ate@ @hursd@y, Sebruary 2@, 1@67. Saul anU @hm @anus came a.ain today. ee@s@R-@@-@$@anN.@$. @ate@Saturday.@ebruary2@,l9@i@. I -- *---@--@- @e went to town m@t the car was too full for Andi and A@er@ I tried to get my pass ba@; from the police, but Irene was @one a-marci@ing. Amer and Apdi didnlt sho@ up. I went to my place, w@d @ so to the Patipelohi's. Ka$@@and@@,@ebruary2o.l@o7. EnB @ermite spokel"rom Epncsians 20n the topic "But God"this morninbi@ the morni@b service. I went to town in the aftcrnoon with the gan@ for an E@glish service, out it rained, and not many people cuu@ out. I met @jak Kaihatu's wife forethe first @lue. @n the w@y home @n the truck I sasg with the studests. Ulis Umuli spo@e in the evening ser vice at @ate2. It was dead. U w electriceli@nts were turned off because of fuel leakin@ into the oil. K=@0 , W @ @ @- @ebr@@ry 2@ 1967. Sometime rather late in the morning Jac@ aillis rode me to *a@nahti@a 0@ thf back 0@ the scooter. I saw Paul S@nupuring on the way. The bus fare from Gaiala to A@bon was @p5 and the perahu fare from @u@a@tiga to Galala was ap2. I dropped a ma@azinc off at Patipelohi's house and then went of to eat at toe Gelora. uere are some prices: Mie @oreng special, @p2Oi nasi @oren@ special, dP2S; ice-water, Rp2.50. I received me books form @other today, and read some from them. deturning to the church 1 t@lked some more with paul and gave Dode uneputi a fifty rupiah offering. T@en I went on to Galala, crossed over by canoe, and walked to @ate2 from @ww@hti@a. @ate2, @wsday, @eoruary 28, 1@07. \ *-*-*---- Paul and @hm @anus cuae a@ un today. Nillis and Bertiu went to town to see the docter, and arrived oac@ late for lunch. @here wasnit enough rice, as usual. "ate2, wednesd@y, @arcn 1, 19b@. @ wor@ed at typi@@ @hm danus' soul doctrine with my own variations. auuetiat duri@@ the day some people came in a motorboat and borrowed a screwdriver. I had an early oatn and went wlaking, p@ying Tante Zji @zenu a visit. @@en I went down and stood on the @u@y talklns with the @@rls until siintfall. rhalia and @dna Hutom had been swiEuin.. I played aominoes with the @illises in the evening. @ate, @hursday, @arcn 2, l@bT. paul and @hm Ranus ca@e a@alS today. 1 was doing a cro@sword puzzle un@il tea time9 after which @ did more wor@ on the "soul doctrine." paul got his hair cut today. The komu werejumpin@on the Day. @ehad lovely sunny, wi@,y weather today, with the west wind blow@n@. Willis wor@ed on the lid @plant and tiunks that he got it fixed. @ate@ Aarch >, 1@67, Thsy found that the li.zt plant was still leaking. I am getting bored, and am too tired to type/ the eveuing is @ore enjoyable without lichts, as the peopie tend to @et outside mor@. @ate2, Saturday, @arc@ 4, 1@67. I we@t $$ town, @at t@ere was still no money at the bank for me. @ invited some guests to A@te2 for ain@er tomorrow. a@.day, @arch @, 1@b7. de had a com@union service t@@s morning, and 6t@e "atu spo@e on the subiect of c co@m@u@on. I felt thatit wasratn.r dryf'or such, really, though others seeued to oein a prayin6 mood afterward. Patiselano, Har"@ *usa'@ota and @ert Nikiulu came out for dinner today, and we had al"inedinner, of course, in the Aperican style. There waslots ofveriaty. Jack is so dull, and was makinc sucn a fool of himself by criticizing literature, a subiect he obviously @sows little aDout. I was dead-bored, and a little fed up with the whole mess. These @illises are such vul@arians (I learned tuat word in "@J @@nutes a Day"), so crude. @ley iupre no ap?reciation at all for the @iner thin@s, and are too naive to be as@amed to show it(except for the Mrs., that is . I went back to town with our buests in their @@at jeep, but didn't @ake it to church for the evenis@ service. I am relieved to be home. @anday, March 6, 1@07. @he @aihuri isn't leaving today after all. 1"r@@- I took care of different tiangs tod@y. " @e%@œi@@@"llid arrive, and nels a service at the stadium after a politically-stid@inb speech by a deputy from the deFartment of religion. @ante Tin% M@@h, 1@07 7. I believe @ @t it was today that I saw Fred Tehupuring and went to the library. There is still no ooat to Hamlea. @ante @@n is cooking for me. I am broke. Inggu was at the service again this evening. @oekendijk spoke @bout the name of Jesus, and the healing at the Gate Beautiful. @.llis called me after the service, and I met the evangelist @oekendijk's h@fe. @iliis was @aking a stink because @oekendiJks canit or wonlt come out toK8te2tomorrow. Some kids followed me to @@llis' car, and @@t insulting.'Fney tried to irab my walkizg stick out of my nand as the car moved off with me sltting in the rear. I struck out at them instinctively with the stick, but missed them. Nillis @ad to drive bac@ to Patimura Street, as Tanah @in@gi is one-way. The dids threw roc@s at the car and one of them hit @illis. @e stopeped the car and the kids ran. Jack yelled, "bodon!w I shouted for them to catcn the one that threw the rock as other voices scolded in the nibht. I d feel so humiliated, always, by the Apbonese rabble, who think that they are some thing they aren't, uld don't know what t@ey are. @" I met Willis at paul's at allittle a*@er ten in the morning, by appoint@ent. fhere was still no money @or me. I saw the @ans. My pants arestt ready yet.I saw the @ @ls. I went up to Luhukais with @illises @ld saw the @oekendijks. I saw Teko t@ere in his glasses for @@e first time. Luhu%ai showed me the pictures oi his dai meetin@s. @oekendijk finally @ad to excuse hiwself and cet bu@y on his own work. I @@anked Oom Luhu@ai for his help in providing the @aihuri II at my time of distress, to rescue me from duru. I went to Kate2 with willises. @@ heart was in my mouth on the way with Jac@ s senseless speeding. I kept silentmostof'the way@ @hereis good food atKate2, tu@ neverenoachofit for me. I had a69'0d cnatwith@eri in the afternoon whileitrained. @e is compl@ining about Willis and his many rules. Be s@ys that Willis dosnit even have them strai@ht in his own i head. @e felt a little despondant aoout the spiritual @ situation in the school. he also felt bad atiout an adulter@r, snaring the pl2tform witn Asse@@ly 0@ God ministers in the evangelistic services in Apbon. / dillis was laying down the law in the afternoon, that if there were any girls st@ying home toni@nt that t@ere wouid have to be a teacher there to watch tnem, and that tEey would @ave to stiudy as usual. I felt sick. I spm@ the rest @6 the afternoon reading from a Bibledictiouary t@t " foundinJack'soffice.'@w kids were sin@is@on the wayin to Ambon, and Crai@ was playino his u@@ilele off be@t. It was cloudy, as if it were uun@ to rain. I left them at the P.0. and walked on home. I didnit attend the service at the stadiu@ toni@ht, but stayed home and read some. de had no li@hts toni@nt. 9. @hursday.- I found @@at @ had mosey in the bank, but addressed to @illis, @@-w@e so I couldn't get it out. It was over Rp6,O@O. I borrowed Rp250, paid Loya back his @p7@, and got my pants at the tailor's. I heard that the @aihuri II is leaving tomorrow. I weMt and bar@ained for a lin@ua wood chest. In the afterzoon I we@t to Oom Masus' house, and he .ave me back my soul paper manuscript that i @@d @Tven him to look at. ae th@n explained his*principalities @ld " powerd'theory to me, drawing pictures on the f@oor with cr@tlk. Tante brou@@t us an orange drink. Oom Masus told me that he was wearing a"4ylon" shirt, but when I loo@ed at him I saw that tie was naked from the waist up! I also stopped and said hellp to Tante Ea@./ In the afternoon I saw dillis and spo@e to him about the money of mise that was in ban@ under his name. /In the service at the stadium this evening @oe@endijk spoke about th@ woman with the issue of blood. -@@ere was a horrific rain, and i got soa@ed. I gave my bible and papers to Bertha, who was sittisg in the back of the truck, then loo@ed around for a shelter around the truck. I ended up standing with my shirt off and coverin@ my oack at the frost end of tze truck. Some @irls came laugbing in the darkness, and all gotunder some sortoftarp rightin front of me. Oneofthem touched oneo*@@y @eftribb with her*-lsger, and as%edme to getin with them. @ replied that@ wastoo wetalready. @nfy Kept on ur@ing. they were nice, @id I tiunk that they must nave been e@@nese. They didn't seem to nave that humiliating attitude about t@em /@@ter the service I wal@ed up to the @as pump at the end of @anantin@gi street with Oom Etcha pelupesi and Jon Parihala. Oce Latu gusthave oeard @@ ma@ing arran@e@ents, forhe came and st@odin @"rontofme, placin@ both hands on my sho @ ders, and said, "Good ni6ht Joe," I can't understand him, and thin@ perhaps @e was also wal@ing. I also think he's a little nuts, ma@be /I too@ a betcha home @'r@m the pump. 10, @Tiday.- Willis c@le to my house, ana arrived just as 1 was puttin. my pants on. @/$ Hewondered whvT w@@latet@@av@ @,,en @r@iol@v wph@@ n@ onn@in@non+ a.=n+ @n+@ r March, 19@7. bank, %@@% There was @p6,@90 for me, and I gave Willis 1,@90, then started spelding.I bou@ht: ose cnest, @p7da; one saw, @p225; one plane blade, Rp175; one h@mmer, @p175; one lock, Kp75; one file, Mp7S; one oven, ap450; 5 cans of milk, Rp37@; one basin, Mp7@; aix boxesofinsect coils, ap3O; one ounce o*'yeast, @p@5. After thisl had @p2,@-@5 left, from witicnl nad to payback Paul'sloan 01"@p250. @@sl gotl6kilogramsof rice and iive kilo@rams of su@ar and paid a becak fare and tip for Tante Ata, @ @ of which cost me Rp3S2.@@. then I had to pay Kp@J@/@@%g @@% for more pants. Then I had to p@y @p @J@ for rent. I bou@@t a book for Rp55. " 11. The @illises dids't come t@us morning. I bou@ht a book called "The Varieties of @ @elisious Bxperie@ce@ by w. J@ses for Rp@5, probabl@ the one listed in yestcrd@y's entry. I saw @eti @ataheru sitting on a fence in front of an office, and stop?ed to sit and tal@ with him foramoment.I had to chaseall over to find BaLuhukai, only t0*-lndt@k@tt@e aaihuri @I is not leaving. @e told me that the B.0. is also not leavin., but I later @'ound thatit @adleft tod@y. ? Itwasvery hot, andl lay on my maton the floorreadin@ @"or awhile. @eti camein tnelater afteraoon, and after my bath and teaweleft thehouse to@ether, separating at the @as pump at the end of Tasahtinggi street, from where he went home, probabl@, and I went on to Patipelobi's. patipelohi wasnit @orking today, so we talked some, but did rather poorly, as patipelohi was tired. I went home by becak, but with Bert Nikiulu riding beside me on his bicycle all the way. @The s@@ oac@@e over casti@thelaterafternoon, andl didn'tgo to the service at the stadium, t@ough @illises did .0. 12. SUnday.- It was rainy t@ns mo@@ung, and I skipped church, almost fo@@etting wnat day it was. I read some, also played my buitar and @ang. As I was a@out to leave for @akar besi's I crashed my head on an open window @@d broke my glasses frames. At aakarbesi's I@'ound everytzing shutup, and decided that t@ey were sleeping./ I f,ltlow, andin need of a cnange after my accident and the insults of the Apbonese all along the way. @ wal@ed baS@, and would have g@nehome, but someone greetedmypoorbody witn, "Jo-JO!w from up @anahtinggi street, so I went on toward the church. There I saw willis' @ar par@ed, and decided that I would like to talk to them for a ghange. A@ I was walkint I saw mddi Forst on a bicycle, and he told me that he had married a 8hristian @;@1 about a year - a@o. / At the office I saw Jack, @arv, Craig, paul and Else. dillis @@d I wa@Bed to Loya'sto get some medicle supplies forMary. @e bougzt candy barsforus. @hen we @Qt bac@ he borrowed Paul's scooter, and went to bert Ni@iuluis house with me. @uere we sat and talked for Iwhile, then went on to the service at M@e stadium, where @rs. Hoekendijk took movies andSr. Hoekendijk spoKeon the su"oject "Greater works @nan @hese, "and a funny adve@ture. @@ybe he was @ropin. *'0r a thou@ht this time. @nere was a tii@ crowd. @e is a good spea@er@ I went home on foot. @ante @in was aaking jam, of which @,e @ave me some, with w@ochl ate a whole loaf of warm bread. qyappetiteisunsatis*-la@le. I heard t@k@t Willis preacAed ner@ in Ambos this morning. 1->. @onday. I went to the pasar after my devotions and bou@ht some line for my vlitar. T@enlbou6ht somtsoap across fro@ the dainuri store. i bougnt a chocolate uar. i@en i wen@ to the boat harbour to ask about perahus, uld Ulere I found out aoout none other than the @ati Gembira. '@tey told me that Del was there, but I didn't s@e ium /I got my glasses fixed / At home I ate a fine meal with tempe, cooked by Tante @.n, then rested. /I am reali@ing a loss of my ability to love. I have been reading from first @ @ Jphn. i can't tell if my problem stems from @oing blind, contiually being abused by the natives, the human agin@process, a combination of causes, orjust plain @ /sell'-centeredness. It could be business, too. I am realizing again how small live shrinks witnout love. " It must have something to do with my eyes. 14. @@esd*y.- Willis west up into the mountains in bac@ of A@oon--pernaps near SQja--but * didn't stop to pic@ me up. 15, @ednesday.- It's my 25tn birthday i got a letter from uaurel Devin at the p.0. and woote an answer, out didnlt have enoug@ money to/@@@@%%/@?@ mail it. I saw Isjba@ at the officeand asked him totryto getohmChori@BjO@ Tama) tohelpme with Buruese/I was surprised to see Crai@ comini up the walk to my house@n the afternoon. @ surpr@sed @@@@s Franz Gasperz and him at the door, and was invited to come along on the secoud tri? up into the hills. I @@ t dressed @.d jo@@ied the truck in front of @@ed Tehupuring's house, w@ere aack and r@ed were talkinc. @e dro@e a good part of the w@y t 0 A@r @esar. i tal@ed March 1967 planned to go on to Kate2 with the Willises, who then arrived before I could finish my tea, and we were soon off with my Buruese dictionary for Kate2, where we had a rather dull evening./I had a hard time getting to sleep tonight. Emma Kermite told me today that ! Lus isn't getting married to Agus Manuhutu after all, and that we is in Menado. 16, Thursday.-. was workin. with"at@ on Buru eiwor'@si@til tea time, oiml2anus and @aul were with us for lunch again*od@y /In the afternoon rwAn@ diving along, but wasn't successful in **lndin. m@'flasse@ %@%/@@@%@/%it@ my ;arched the prea fairly well. The water was deep, and diving tired me. I b $d and@i d some more from "@J da@s to a better vocabulary."? Later I walked down to the gudang, where Jack and Craig were, Jack working on the lightplant and Craig working on his bicycle. Then I got a ride down to Poka, and crossed over to Galala from *OuQ@@@@@y by perahu. Then I rode on to town from Galala and walked up Tanahtin@@. street tQ,my @lace '/ I s@ent the ever@n@ at home studying Greek. Tante Tin was gone to a "perhimpunan. i@@" 17, Friday.- I washed my clothes this morning. there was no mail at the church when I went there. I went down to check for a perahu Namlea an @ @ @ Agus Latuperisa on the way. As I @as returning he fousd me and told me t$@t he -@aihur@ II was leav@n@ tomorrow. I met Susi and Tante Susi near Jalan Cempaka about @re @@nti@l Dulu used to be. Susi had her hair cut short. ? At the church I was given some cassava @ d@es i*@e@@-eqBe- sago kasbi by someone. Then I walked home and gave Tante Tin part of the Cassava cakes and some bread that I had bought./ I bathed before lunch, which included some kohu2 made by Tante W.n from ikan asar. / It was a very hot day. In the afternoon I sat outside some with Oom @im. Then" retired to my room, where I now, writing.Itiswindy.'rhereis a cobalt sky with billowing white clouds outside. It is hot like Hades. (Joe: This was the shorter page). " 1" @ ' @ '@ i@ ' ' '@ - " '@@@@'""" @ @@ ' "* @ @i @ @s ; = @ @" $l@@sl i @j f@ha@;@ : ' *@ @@@ra ggotaSjds P si@s@i. i , . -@; @j @9J@m@@t A1@$@;4@@-@sila@ @ @@@ = i" " +@5@i "'@-@ """a@ra@Jg@eka@ih: @ 4;@i'! @gy"qd i;@ - @ * ' " @A@@@I @ @ *1@.@@a@ah@er@@epgdamudglamnams "@gJpdpsKeristus: :r,": ;1;- 1@@ @:@:" le engarberita arihalmUj8ng '@'> ' Sq@@-@s@gat-gembirg"@ti@kaly : " @ @)dibaw@i oleh sshsb@t kami T@@n-Gurp @@rnspaimke"f@m@rin. B@ @ @ ""i q @@ ,,. @ .. ,,...,. ... @@ ... ,. . == = .--. . @ j"8"@@@gat @s m -"- ---" *-" -"= -""-"'"' -'-' ""*"" """"" """ """' @' 5=' ' ""@M@i@ ..i@ @ @ i dsh tio&'@@@@n$ paaa 0u1$n Augustus, tshun lalu, dan @r@@' ;@@ " @edan@ berusaha;akan mendirikan sebuah gereja disini, dan skan 'm!g seor*pg pendets kepadamu @@-Wailala, k@rena ksmi dapgt r $Q@@ @abar bahwa kamu merindukan yang d4mikian. Kira2 @iga bulan yang Imlu sajm telah berjalan ke Bsnul@let, @@ @@ d@n sudsh bertemu deng@n Bapm Temi peribsdi disana, sambil menjsm @ r' @@ @aikan undangsn ka@i supsja belisu aksn da@ang dan mengunjungi @m Q: @ of@@ @Bdun@, dan kira2 sekgr@n@ ini hamoir. stNu munokin djupA @ @ @h. @@"- ' *" -- -*--"*-*----"---"'*"-----" >" f', " @ melahi@ksn seorsng snak. Berekg berdug sdm dengan keq@mmn yang Cu Sekarsng ini pintu jmng terbuka @ihadapan ksmi ssngat luas, dan kami berharap bahwa dalam tahun2 yang akan datang banyak jiwa2 @k@n diselamatkgn di wilaja Buru Utara. Tentu ini bukan pekerdjaan saja &taupun Bapg Temi atau ore@g lain sahedja, m@lsinkan pekerdjasn " Tuhan j@ng Mshakugsg didalam kita sekal@an. Oleh sebap itu saja mau mendoropgkan saudara2 supeja mankin memperheba@ usghe2mu didmlmm imgn dimang2 jmng saudmra2 berada supmja terangmu aken mmnkin ber tjshgja kepada banyak jiwa2 jmng lagi terhilang didalam kegelmpsn. Inilah zaman gchir jsng sudah lamg dir@malkan oleh p@re nabi. Sgtu zaman yang daiamnya Injil Kerajaan Allsh ini skan sampai kepada sekalian bengss. Mgsg m@nugi besmr jgng gchir. Bisrlah sauamr@2 berdoa buat ksmi disini, dan kami bu H; sa@dsra2 dissna, supajm kitE masing2 man RIL 19, 1967. @mas Lsslesi arrived in this morning from his plantation at Wae Sglin negr Ngadi and Metar. He says that there mre about @0 people there that were once free from pinang but whu went back gnd started chewing again becmuse of persecution. WsiAp@ people told them that this religion had been closed. Many of them were formerly con verted under the ministry of Bapa Temi at L@leglinat. 0@ the WmiApat To get to W8i@alin you must go by rm@u from Namlea to Metar 1 then walk from Met@r to @aiSalin, abont@ day's @@hh. From N@m@ea to Metar takes about a dmy or so. He sgys that the persecution is too grest in the @illages, so they in tend to build a new villmge where they will be free to wor ship. They hope to build a church also. Those that believe say that mherever Amas builds his house they will all come to live there with him. Amss intends to return to WaiApo (WaiSslin) from here, start his at WaiSalin, then go on to WgSlei and from there on to Banulalet. In the meantime his peaple at WsiSalin wilr proceed with the building of the house, so thet it will be regdy by the time he return@ from Leksula, He says he feels that the Spirit dosN't want him to work openly till his house is finished, but then intends to go ahemd with the spreading of the @ospel full force. @ He says thst the Gospel should be preached in the interior accord ing to Temi"s method. That is, not to bring a@ama (religion) to them at the first, but to weep among them till there is a revival (keaermkan). Then, after they are established, to go ahesd with the g@ama. I don'k yet know exactly @hat they mean by"a@ama", but I t@ied to make it e little more clear that I @asn't trying to bring religion to these people, but Jesus Christ, and him crucified. @e wept when he met me, and as we talked. He brought two tins of peanuts (tins used as measuring uniti for the work here. He says that his plantation is to support the work of God at Nmmleg, as we hmve no plantation here. He says his wife is now well. K@t@2, 8uaday, December 24, 1967,- @ 1 A rather @Tercast @orniag. I got up rather late, and didn't feel like sayin@ "Good @0r$ing". We had @@sh, spam, toast, coffee, etc. for breakfast. I ha@@ @een guilty of @@kiag part i@ @anter without thinki@g but @hat @ @ould s*J beforebsna " these last f@w d*ys (here &t Ea@@2)i I don't l8ke to bother about perf@cting that sort of humour, really, and I @o@'t s@joy thes@ @@pty co@versatio@s that go o@ and oa ever@ d@@ in the n@@e of f@llow@hip. I iov@ reason and a co@strac@ive lif@, and if I do@it h@@e thes@ I @@@'t fe@@ hAppy, I r@*d out lo@d from my old ki@g Ja@es bible yes@erday moroing, the o@e I had @@st ' So@ten b@ck from Bert Bikiulu. @h@n I @@nt to the sffi@@@. I s$opp@d at the Int@llige@@e D@p*rt@ent first, where I got sy p@s@ to Baru, and had @nother long talk with @ustio@e. " He se@@s to have @g@d i@ the past year. a@ is @@r@ miled B@ sbo@@ spirit@*l things, but I testified to him about the S@@iou@ and @s@@ and hnmAnit@. if@@r thi@ I went @n toward the church sffice and @@t 0@ Bon@ 0@ the w@T ne@@ the P.0. He told @e h@ was having troubles, and felt lonely, and I el@lained that so@e@i@es God had to deal with us to @ring us to a k@owledge of the @rwth. I @@id I would try to bring @sther to bis hous@ next w@ek when we c@@e in to town. At PaBl's I get Jack @illis, wh@ w*s just going to I@@igrAtion, elactly wh@r@ I need@d to @0. we t@lk@d to Bia&r bi@ @@&ib, and he told of poasible future difficulti@s in @etting visas @Itend@d. He pr@@is@d to help me, tho@@h, and @@dQrs@ ay applioa@ion @or @ pe @ane@@ @is@, and he @@@@ the i@pression th@t with his endorseme@t telling how long that I had been in the cou@tr@, etc,, I would be also@t cert@in t@ get it. @@ want back to the offic@ at the chBrch, wher@ we found Paal. Willis had to take hi@ to s@e @atu@eten a@ the D@part@e@t of Beli@ion @bo@t endorsing /approv@ng a letter fro@ the "Sidang Jumaat Allah" reque@@ing &@ extensin @i to $ign @ letter pl&cing me at WaSlei, with @ana and North B@rn a* my @r@as of oper*@io@ I brief@d hi@ on the preeent sit@*tion, and h@ nnderstood about the @nslim trouble. ae stid he k@ew @or@ @bowt it the@ I, as he had just @ec@iv@d @ r@port fro@ the KPS of @. Bwr@, which he had i@ a folder befere h@@. H@ encsurag@d me to iust pl@g on, working in accord with the Und@n@2 @as@r. It w*s *@r@ady getti@g along towaDi noon when ve reached the church a@&in. @@t@@eten had used@ funn@ @@taphore @bout pressur@s Applied to hi@ giring hi@ a bl*ck look, as if we saw hi@ thr@@@h d*rk glass@s. H@ took his gl@Sunday school@s off then, and s@i@ that sne day we voBld see that Lat@@et@@ was also cl@anl It was fun@y bec@sse 0@ his n@@e, I@ o@e underst@@ds it. @st@= ki@p. M@te@=bl*ck. w@ picked Keri, @a@@e Baba and @there up @t the c*nu@h, letting Pawi off, P@@I c@@e back with Ghristmas gifts which he p@t i@ the f@ont seat (I @@an, I p@t i@ the fro@@ se&t ror hi@). There was also one i@ an envelope that he @@dp@Sunday school@@ handed to me. It s&id on the o@tside that it was fr@@ the @@h@@Bri@@ familg, and I l@t@r o@ened it i@ front @f the Ic@ plan@ and found th&@ It Yas @ne @@ th@se four color ball-pens. W@ w@@t there (t@ the ice pls@@) to pick @p ice for fr@e@ing ic@-cre@@, and Willis @ot two blocks @or the price of o@e as the hole through the center was larg@r. We had to go ' back to Lshuk@i's and borrs@ some @u@@J sacks from hi@ to cover the ice, and found his place all decked owt for the party I had been i@vited to, th@t @ill be held toni@ht. @heJ had also been workiFi the church over. from @@h@k@i's pe went on and stopped @t @@ pl@ce, where @@ri ca@e in and helped me to get sy tb@ngs @o@ether. I @ook the h@nd of @ini@ture bana@as (vhat was l@f@ of them) fro@ the table, but left vh@t was lef@ of @J bread for the@, I had * big l@ncha a@ @ats2, closing with coffee and cookies. Then I vent out into Willis's s@udy to get sway from the incesssnt converaatœon in tbe living roo@. I want *@ sle@p on the ch@ir. Woke @@ strea@ing perspiration. Got down on the floor, rolled over, and heard my new glass@s crack i@ my left @@nts pocket. I did some snooping later and found the rest of Jack's books in the b@okcase drawers, inclBd- ing @r@d TehBpu @ ag's Chapell B@atbuildi@@ Book, the one that I s@nt hi@ fro@ t e States so long ago. I st*rted to co@y out information fr@@ a Zenitb radio book I fo@nd, then went and helped J*Qk by cranking the @cecrea@.free@er. Jack eame and sat 0@ it during th@ last stages. @other came to the study and helped se by dictating from the book, and I finished up b fore it was ti@e to eat@ The bell rang just as I @as on my last stretch. w@ had toast ha@burger sandwiches for supper; one apiece. Then just about @ore icecrea@ than we could hold. It was some of the b@st icecream the Willis frees@r had ever pro- duced Yhen I had been sround. Mother helped me and I inventoried ny things after supp@r. straightened them out, then went to bathe. Mother sat in my bedroom on the old varandah after my bath, and I read my diary to her till she almost fell asleep. I got Willis to show his Buruese slides, but Mother was already in bed by the time he got started. I could not resist getting her up, as that would probably be her only oppertunity of seeing th@@. There were slides of both Namlea and Leksula. Also of WaeBohit, Liang, Airbabunji, a burial cave, etc. After this it was about time to turn the lights out, so I went into my room and read a little. went to bed and listened to my radio over the earphone till I was drifting off. ')erewq@>er1t @. @@@-7 @@ @L@ K@@@,@@@@,@@0@@419@. Ivas tJping till service started, and so I arrived late. Willises had gone to Benteng Karang with Margeret Brown, who is speaking there this morning. Mother spoke here in the morning, and did well on Si@e@@ vh@ oa@e into the temple in the power of the Holy Ghost and found the Christ there. She Oom*@@nted @@ the need of a pastor in the Kate2 church first though, and told them in no uncertain terms that it was wrong for the church to be in this condition. It was @IActl@ what would hege said, elcept that I wouldn't haTe been able to pack as @uch @@T@fTh@ but rity behind ny words, not having been the founder of this work. There was a good spirit of prayer after the servic@ Keri had to get a@ter some irr@@ponsible boy for letting the new mast for Willis' sailb@at roal off the supports and then not pick it up @gai@. It is a big binta@@guS 10@ that Willis @s seasQning out alo@g the wall near the chnrch. We w@re on the way ho@e fro@ the @eeti@g. I @as surprised to ses @eri get in and @Ie@@ exercise authority. I was a little late a@ein for the eTeni@ service, but arriv@d while they were still singing this ti@e. Mother and @11 the rest but @@rc@ll@ were @one to Benten@Karang and there were only a very few in the serTi@e. @@@@@ T@@ Thenu spoke on two types of Christ ian; the typ@ that does and the t@pe that does@'t liv@ according to the Word. There was a sweet message in her ser@on, and she did well. All who were in the ser@ice were i@vited to & little Christmas party at the Willis' afterward, rld sere asked to @e there at nine. They all crowded in, and it @as fun to have them. We, the Americans, weren't served anything, and Workala told me we would probabiy be "di S@lakanœ", and I asked hereif that @ould be out in the kitchen or what. @e opened our @ifts later. I go@ a shirt from Jack and @ary, and a k@in from M@@. Sis Willis got busy cooking early in the day. The lights were on. The hi fi was going, I sat engrossed in Svetlana Stalin's memoirs. Wasn't read when the first guests arrived. they were Dr. Ong and his wife and old Cheng, of the preB@S days! I still remembered the @@@b@@@@@@*h*@b@@eL@*r@@ . @ . @h*@@@g @v*ba@ *:@@@@*@ e@@d@@ @@*h@ xfIB@x@h @@x*h@x@x@dx@@xl name, and she said she remembered how she used to bathe me as a child in Ambon. Even how she used to lie in bed with me@!! I didn't remenber that, but have a hunch it is true. I was trying to get changed, as we thought a German couple were coming for lunch. @illis ea@e back by the @udan@ to find his wife in a fit of frustration because all th@se pe@ple had arrived just at lunch time without an invitation. Wh@n I arrived i@ @y roo@ on the west tarandah @@ther was calli@@ to me because Ch@ng was ther@. I was still i@ my old clo t R @g and did@'t @ant to @ake an appearance yet but they ca@e b@ck anyhov. I think they all understood my predica@ent then (Ihadn'@ been able to shack hAnd@ because my hands wers still wet), because they all went @kek and sat down on the front varandah. @ dress@d and went out to them. we @ilked for s@@e ti@e. @@@@ Ch@ng like@ to @lay te@ni@ @ow. S*Js she never go@@ to St@@ha@us ' s@nrch, The Dr. @ad@ @e a letter te thke to the @ilitar@ Hespital t@ get @ chest I-raJ. He sa@ my chess set while he was in @@ roo@, I @ro@ght it sut 0@ the varandah and @e b@at @e @@ce, then it was @eal ti@e, and it turAed out @@ be fortunat@ that th@s@ @n@Ipected guests came, as the Ger@an couple neTer showed up, we sAt and t@lk@d s@@e a*ter di@ner, b@t the@ wanted to play ten@is, so they left @id@+Dter@oon, O@r Christ@as @i@@er h*d been in the A@erican style. Bo*sted *0w1, roll@, p@as, corn, fruit salad, dressing, c@ndied sweet potatoes, coffee, pie. Too @nch to eat. I felt hot *nd wanted to play my radio some so I went out to Willis's den ts ksep from disturbing those i@o bad gon@ to rest. It was @T@@ hotter there, so I fin@lly ended up down by the quqy, where I took my shirt off and sat @ill L@@ion@s came. we went vp to the varandah and visited. @@@@Il@@IG@@ One 0@ Legio@'s @ons is retarded and sat copyiBg what his wife was saying till she even see@ed to g@t c@@fused. Then the Germa@ couple * arri@ed. K@rt and Karen He is a co@@@@icAtio@s engi@eer and here trying, pro b@bl@ in Tain, go get a di&l *r@te@ set up in A@bsn, @@ *11 sat together out oa the lawn @@side the livi@g *00@ i@ the sh@de on s@@e ch@irs we bsowght out. There we were treated ts some @or@ coffee and pie. I had showed my m@ps and H@rt h*d Tentured to ask a little @bout @@r@. He t@@k@ T@r@ little. Lsgio@ had gone and sat vith the children on the stsps. Then @@@ions left and we set with the Ger@an couple ag@i@. Mow the bright idea of i@viting the@ tothe 8hr@st@as plaT in A@@Q@ ca@e across @ary's mind. There wasn't re&lly Any waJ th@y could ke@p fro@ *ccepting. (J@ck had @ade the elcuse to a @tudent av Legio@ left that he csuld@'t go when he had company, beoause that would seem very rude.) It was now just *bout elactly se@en in the ev@ning, and that was the ti@e the @eeting was to begin. I @aw go reason to go @11 the wAy t@ town and back over these rough ro@ds, and especi@ll@ got to tske Hart and Kare@ o@ly to get there when the thing was already h@lf through, so I rsfns@d to @0. We s@t waiting for willises in the early even ing, and it aust have been s@ least s@@@n-thirty before they ever got away. I though it @as @@ fsolish. Mother went with them thou@h. I staJed Bp and t@@ed so@@, and re*d so@e and didn't go to bed before they came back. @@@aseh came and sat in the Willis' living room all the while they were gone r@ading @agaai@es., and I didn't want to have anything re---@-- '9@7 (25.?@? to do with him thinking that he was there without permission like the students used to be many times during Brown's reign. I later found that he was supposed to be there to guard the place, so I felt glad over that. I sat on the varandah reading "When the World goes Boom" for awhile. When the others arrived we had some leftovers to eat, and Mary complained that I hadn't had something already on my own. I hadn't really been hungry after all that we had eaten that day! KATE2 TUESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 1967.- I went and @athed arter breakfast and after praying the"devotion" @rayer. Then @art and Karen came and we went to NatSepa in the 2 cars. We went snorkeling, b@t the others weren't as enterpr@sing as I was, so I found myself poving the reefs alone, fer out beyond anyone else, I saw many butterf@y fish and many beautiful coral formations. Despite my eyes I seemed to get in the swing of things in the underwater world, @lidid@ quickly over the botto@ and through the coral @ardens, I kn1w I would have slim chances of spotting a shark if thfre were any, and there usually are sharks around in these waters. I felt the spirit of a ballet dancer as I dove there alone. Flying along over the sands I spotted a delightful little @@x@lx coral tree ahead. I bent upward over it as I got there, spreading my ar@s in ecstatic glory, feeling the Beauty of motion and for@, almost as I used to before my blindness. Then, what should I get for ny efforts@ I felt a Jab on m3 right thigh and knew that some fierce little warrior of a fish must have charged out of his coral ho@e (the coral tree) to attack me! He desisted as I rose to the surface. I vent bar@eling home to shore swimming swiftly on my back and was sur prised by a snorkler who squeeked at me as I passed. I turned to look a@ain, thinkin@ that to be an odd sound for a man to make. When I got to the beach they told me Karen was snorkling, I hadn't been able to see well enough to know. Willises begged Karen and Kart to come have lunch with us, and made it awkward for them but they refused anyhow. I could see right along that they didn't want to come, but not my hosts! We returned home, I riding in the front for the 2nd time but Mary riding with us instead of with @@œ@@ Hart and Karen as before. All of the women were in the back. We had rice and sate and gado2 for lunch, and it would have been good but that it wasn't seasoned properly. I took Mother to the Kampong while the others were " asleep in the afternoon. I talked to her about my plans, and about taking Puan to America, etc., but she didn't seem enthusiastic, and I knew that she was opposed to my marrying her at heart. We stopped at Tante Ta's house, but only Dedi and Eba @ere home. " @other and " sat for awhile, then walked on to Durian Pata, where Tante to was, but we didn't go in to @ee here, as ehe was back in at Hene Undu's old house, evidently. We walked up the old Hitu road a ways, talking. then we cut bac@ down to the Laha road and @ sat for awhile on the bridge as you enter HX Hunut fro@ the hill. Se talked there a long while, and some men stopped to talk to us on their way to or from a sa@uero tree. We stopped to see Manaseh at the @udan@ on the way home. then went on. Mar@i came down as we approached the dri@eway after looking at the perahus, and Wother went beach-coamb ing with @er. @e had leftovers for supper, and IX@@@AKX@@X*@@Xt@@M Mother told about Sch@artz of Australia and her escape from here, etc. I did some typing. Jack came and gave me a price of @75 for his recorder, then @e went to church together, The service ' was ver@ poorly led, and the fellow Oce Yasarua read from a Psalm but I have forgotten which one. Only that It was the one ths* says "brou@ht me very low" in it. The praye' service was better, but the missionaries other than Motker and I were not in the Spirit, and probably thought that we were @m the flesh. I was surprieed and almost a lit@le alarmed at how frankly Mother prayed that the 8pirit would move as before,and that the Lord would remove the cro@s spirits from the place. She may be simpler in her old @ge, but the old spirit that animates @@@@ her is just the same, and I ssemed to be able to see then how that the cause of all her success was only one thin@: the spirit that has worked in and through her. @@ Such a mighty power, running freely throu@h her always. " I had not been able to pray like that, with all the criticism I had been under, but she ssemed immune to everything, including the feeling that we need to avoid missunderstand ing. Just as if it wasn't tAere, or as if she didn't have the least respect for the thin@s set up by what I admit to be the influence of our opponant, No tact about it whatsoever. Just no regard whatsoever for the c@mples bonds of the feelings of man. w@uin we got hoae I typed @ let@er to Morris, then went to read it to her on the varan dsh. @s had a good talk by ourselves then, as the others were all in the living room listenins to the Hi Fi or, at least, where the HI FI was playing . Sister @illis graciously brought us a cup of coffe and a big slice of fruitcake, but Hother had to pass on the latter as she was too full, I told Motker that I @ould pref@@ to die than to coDpromise what I had from the Lord. I told her of sy scrapes with death in Sin@apore and in the dark waters of the strait at ni@ht. I pent to bed later than the others DEC@Q@R Z@ 1967. Wednesd@y. . @argi and Marcella made the big farew@ll scene this morning and Willis drove them down to Laha. I had told them I didn't tlunk that they would ever getoff, and jokindly promised them a canoe ride,@like I had pro@ised Joy- ir they returned. Sure enou@h, all came back in the heat of the day, and one of them, -Margi, @ think,- demanded their canoe ride while the sun was still scorching. I put it of@ till late afternoon, andthey seemed to @gree to wait. I had refused to go to the airport with them, saying that I only went with those that were really leaving. They s&id that a Militar@ plane had been in and that the crew had taken their named and a@reed to pick them up on their way back from Irian. It was a Hsrculies. Margi called from down on the beach in the late afternoon, and I went and changed into one of Willi's bathing suits, and, with Willis' help, got a paddle from a student who later carried the Matangitonga into the water with another student. I took F@u@p first, paddling west, then around and back and down along in front of the villa@e. When we $@t back, Marcella got in and I took her strai@ht east and down a@ far as the Durian Patah stream. @; had pleasant talk, and she seemed to understand the mood of the bay better, and I rather enjoyed her. When we got back they joked us about how long @e had been been, DECEMBER 28, 1967. @hursday.- @@anz and Keri helped load my things i@the back and I rode in to town with @other and Willis this morni@g. Willis was In a hurry over his vi@a be ing late, and for@ot to stop at my place, he says. Anyhow, I waa stuc@ to go to all the different places and wait with my thin@s in the back of the truck till he was finished, so that all my morning was spent in vain. ae went to the Agama place at Benten@ first. ?hen to Immigration. After eveg'thing was finished Jack finally took me home. DECE@'BE@ 29, 1@67, ?riday.- I took @other sh@pping with me and nearly wore her out, but didn't really get anything. aad Lunc@ and 8upper at Eng's. D@@Oom 1967. @1, SUNDAY, @ookit easy this morning. @alked to the church, wentin and satdown.'@hen Tante E@g came and asked me to come and sit with @er and Mother, farther forward on tkc le t side. Tin Gasper, one of the latest graduates 0@ Kate2, led the sin@ing, and did it with embarrassingly dramatic @estures and poses. I felt it wasn't in the Spirit and didn't sing. Oom Tos Gaspfr was leading the service. Paul got upaand said a few words abo@t the new year and his trip to Java. @eri was there and spoke on the profession of our faith, and did well. I didn't really seem to feel the Spirit moving in the aervice until a woman came (or rather, was led farward weeping @or salvation. @other was p@ay i 9@ with her after all the others and even I had @otten up and sat down. I asked Paul if Bert Solissa were there, and he said he must have seen wron@ly the time he thou@ht that he had seen Bert in one of the recent services. He said theugh, that he would ask Bert's mother-in-law about my stove for me, thou@h, if he saw her. Tante Qlg was already ahead and I followed out with @other. When we got outside i asked her if Ama were there, and she showed him to me. I took his hand and invited him, - no, begged him - to have lunch with us, He came, and I @)t around to askAn@ En@ on the way, She reakily 4;reed, but Probably felt a little unsettled by it. I @oofed and stepped on Mothe@s leit heel as we walked and talked. Later I and Ama struck out ahead, because it was too difficult for me to walk in back of the two elderly women with my eye condition. @ante Eng went DECEMBER 1967. 30, SATURDAY. Went to Bert's in the afternoon and sat around and talked for a long time. They served me some sort of lemon syrup drink first. Then coffee. Bert gave me one of his books called "The Death of Adam" as he had two of them. After I parted company with Mother, who went to look at the site of the old church in back of the Rumah Makan Solo, I went up to the library and there read up on Buru, after talking for a while to Sileki and kidding him about having relatives in the Phillippines now. A man, - evidently one of Bert's pupils, to hear him talk, - said a few words to me in English. I had lunch at Engs, after which it was that I went to Nikiulu's. After our evening meal at Eng's, Mother and I went to C.A.s at the church, and when we were seated Anis Titalei came and asked me to speak. Mother thought that he was asking her and said no for me. I explained what was going on and accepted. I sat on the platform through the opening ceremonies. The singing was led by that girl who wears the sarong and isn't too bright. Also the testimonies, I guess. I spoke from Isaiah 9, about the light that now shines, testified long about what things the Lord had been doing in Buru, and ended up reading my text again and then going on to the verse "Unto us a son is born" to close with. I did fairly well, but there was no great move of the Spirit, at least not detectable. Mother brought me home. At 10:@0 in the night I got Lanphier's programme on FEBC. He opened. Sileki spoke. One other fellow,-evidently the Chinese fellow,- read the news, and then Mary Jane spoke or @an@, or something, in her broa@. Mother and I had been surprised to find Ama Uneputi there as we were about to leave the church tonight. He walked up the road with us, overjoyed to be with us, and telling how he remembered Mother's testimony about carrying a fifteen kilogram pack 16 kilometers through the jungles of Bacian, etc. We were all holding hands, in the Omaese way. Ana was on my right and Mother on my left . Sunday, December 31, 1967. Took it easy this morning. walked to the church, went in and sat down, Then Tante Eng came and asked me to come and sit with her and Mother, farther forward on the left side. Tin Gasper, one of the latest graduates of Kate2, led the singing, and did it with embarrassingly dramatic gestures and poses. I felt it wasn't in the Spirit and didn't sing. Tos Gasper was leading the service. Paul got up and said a few words about the new year and his trip to Java. Keri was there and spoke on the profession of our faith, and did well. I didn't really seem to feel the Spirit moving in the service until a woman came (or rather, was led) forward weeping for salvation. Mother was praying with her after all the others and even I had gotten up and sat down. I asked Paul if Bert Solissa were there, and he said he must have seen wrongly the time he thought that he had seen Bert in one of the recent services. He said though, that he would ask Bert's mother-in-law about my stove for me, though, if he saw her. Tante Eng was already ahead and I followed out with Mother. When we got outside I asked her if Ama were there, and she showed him to me. I took his hand and invited him--no, begged him--to have lunch with us. He came, and I got around to asking Eng on the way. She readily agreed, but probably felt a little unsettled by it. I goofed and stepped on Mother's left heel as we walked and talked. Later I and Ama struck out ahead, because it was too difficult for me to walk in back of the two elderly women with my eye condition. Tante Eng went round and opened the front door for us (or maybe it was Giok that actually opened it, I don't remember), and we sat on the porch talking before it was time to eat. Ama said a lot and even too much, as usual, but it was pleasant to have him there, when you knew what and who he was. As Mother said, Tante Eng was a little upset about having Ama there when it was mealtime (Mother said this to me in English). Ama sat at the end on my left, and Mother on my right. We had to wait awhile for Eng, but then she came and sat across from me. There was an abundance of food, and it was all very good, and Tante Eng left off feeding me today, and looked after Ama instead. I kept talking little things to put Ama at ease and smooth over Eng's edgy nerves, which I could sense must be giving her trouble then, having been around her for so long. We sat out on what used to be the varandah again after the meal. Then Ama and I left on foot. We stopped in at Cak Kaihatu's but he was asleep. Ama wanted to wake him up, but I did what I could do to restrain him. Tos, the one who had been at Inggu's house that time I was at Saparua, - was there, Also Oom Tiang, who sat with us for awhile. We went on to my place after awhile, and just relaxed and talked and listened to the radio and looked at some magazines all afternoon, and, as usual, Ama talked too much; but it was all right, as I know him and love him as a friend, and am more than patient with him. He agreed to go to Buru with me and build me a canoe. I had asked him how much canoes cost now as we were walking and he had said about 2,000. I told him I would pay him the 2,000 and his fare to Buru and back if he would go and build one there for me, and he agreed. Just like that. We had a few deeper discussions about the spiritual things, and I was made aware of his searching insight and perception, and remembered that the way he talked didn't make him simple, though he might seem that way. Oom Wim brought us tea and cookies in the late afternoon, and we enjoyed them together, praying over them before we partook. I got a splendid sermon in over FEBC. It was preached by the pastor of Calvary Baptist Church in N.Y., xxxxx and it seemed to me he couldn't help but be Pentecostal to preach a sermon like that. I had heard it over a neighbour's radio, and seemed to be able to tell by his voice that he was inspired. Then, when I found it on my own I knew, and wished very much that Ama could understand too. We had met the Dr. Ong before we reached the Geredja Silo, and he had informed me that there was nothing wrong Nith my chest according to the fluoroscope I had taken yesterday. Ama left before dusk. I seemed to feel a little sickly and didn't eat anything and went to bed early, and lay listening to my radio with the light out before going to sleep. Ambon, Monday, January 1, 1968. There were firecrackers in the night celebrating the new year. In the morning as I sat eating breakfast Oom Wim said that one of the plant pots by my window had been knocked over, perhaps by someone who had come and peeped into my open window. I said that maybe it was a dog. I spent all the morning reading, typing and listening to my radio. There had been some beautiful choral singing on the Ambon RRI. The beca fares were so high today that I walked all the way to Tante Eng's for lunch and arrived these 20 minutes late. There were throngs of people on the streets, and they tell me that the Muslim and international new year coincide this year. Paul Matatula and Mother were eating when I arrived there. Then the women that took care of Loce when she was dying came and sat in the seat vacated by Paul when he left and ate. I was still eating as I had begun later than Mother and Paul. We talked some after the meal, then Mother and I left for s@ place. We walked all the way, and I seemed to have trouble with Mother, who always wants to lead me by the arm, and only seems to be a bother. We met one of Mother's old acquaintances on the way. I actually met him first, as I had left Mother far behind, but I didn't know him. He evidently thought that I was Morris. We talked some, and he demonstrated a limited knowledge of English, and seemed to be a refined gentleman. At the house there was a Gaspers man and his wife visiting with Rikumahus, and they came and sat with Mother and I, and said that they were from Bagenda's church. Mother and I later retired to my bedroom, and Mother sat typing s@ excerpts from my diary during most of the rest of the afternoon. Then she helped me to pack my things. Tante Tin had served her with stroop and coockies when we first arrived, then had brought us tea on a tray in the afternoon, knocking on the door. Oom Wim had entered without knocking earlier to return my thesis on man's make-up, and Tante tin had complained to me about it later while Mother was gone to visit Dad's grave. I took my bath. Mother came back. She then read some to me from one of the prophets, talked some, and went home, saying she felt sleepy. I went and ate what was left of my bread and some macaroni that Tante Eng had given me to take home. One of Tante @in's dogs got hit by a fast automobile after I had returned to my bedroom. Ambon, Tuesday, January 2, 1968. Mother says that she wants to go to Kate2 again today if Willis comes. She came to my place early in the morning as I was dressing, and listened to the news while I was in the bathroom. We went down into the pasar and bought a package of 30 barso; "Anchor" brand soap*"or kp4@5,and aams brought them to the church. Then I took Mother to Nikiulu's where x@ I introduced her to Bert, - who was just @@@@x@@ about to leave on a bicycle when we arrived in front of his house, - Oom I and the Tante (Bert's Mother). We had a pleasant conversation, and who should happen in but Oom Wim! There was also a fellow named Saleh who came in a little later and invited me to his house sometime when we left. As @ thought, Willis didn't come today. But there were a couple of women going by on a beca while we had been standing in front of the church and they had yelled something about going to Kate2 tomorrow. I took it that perhaps they knew that he was to come. The Hukom children were at the church onee when I was there, and they said that Willis would be coming tomorrow. Ama had gone to check and found that there was no boat leaving for Namlea yet. We had been all upset because Manaseh Latuheru had run after me from behind as I approached Valentyne Street on that side street where the garage is and touching my left arm had asked where I was going. When I looked around and saw his uniform, sunglasses, and beret, I figured he was some kind of a wise-guy, but just went along with him. He asked where I was going, etc. Then he asked if I didn't know who he was. I looked good, but couldn't recognize him. then I took him and turned him and read his name plack on his right chest, and acted overjoyed to see him. As I talked, I asked him to take off his sunglasses so I could see how he looked. He did, and I said I could see the Latuheru in him a little better then, but said I could probably recognize him better without his beret. Re ar@ued about this, and @ soon saw the reason. When he took off his beret I saw that he was bald half way to the back of his head. I was flabbergasted. I asked him how long he had been this way, and he said about three years. I asked him jokingly whether it was good or bad to be like that, and he said he didn't know. I tried to tell him that he looked distinguished. It was from him that I got the news that the Geser was to leave that evening. I brought that news straight to Ama, who was at Chak's house, just up the street. Ama didn't even have his "Passfoto" with him, and none of the offices would be open till the @th. Ambon, Wednesday, January 3, 1968. To Ongs and got medicine and he and Dio, the female Dr. wanted to have a look at my eyes so I let them. It was all a lot of fun, and I kidded about getting caught in the dark room with Jo, etc. Mrs. Ong had werved me a bia heloi@i of @@karoni with a January 3, 1968, continued. After returning to the church we again parted company. The others all went in the truck to Eng's to get Mother's things. I went on to my place by beca, straightened my things out a little, grabbed a snack, took my file folder with the Yom story in it, a tee-shirt, and a pair of BVDs and went out and waited for them on the little front porch. Tante Tin brought me a glass of thick stroop which I drank. Then she came and took the glass again. My clothes, of course, were foul with perspiration and soaked through as I sat there in the midday heat. I write this to remember how hot it really is in Ambon. The truck finally came, and they told me to get in the front seat with Willis, wife, and my Mother because the back was full. I did, and we made it out to Kate2, where it seemed cool and peaceful after Ambon. There was a lovely breeze, and I was reminded that this is the finest time of the year, when the eastwind dies and the westwinds bring day after day of brilliant, quiet, beauty. I was reading when Willis came and got me up to help him get the boat in. I just sat on the pier and watched, feeling too blind to be of any real service. TK@@X Of all the stupid things that I ever saw, they let thatnew i@uruese boy who doesn't know how to paddle tow it in with the larger canoe, and he had a terrible time. It was actually a bit rediculous to watch, and I watched and laughed from the pier. Willis was angry at the boys on the boat for scraping the anchor cable against the hull. Well, after heading off towards Poka for œawhile, then back toward Hunut, and after one of the boys on the boat had to dive in and move the Matangi-tonga, which was moored to one of the boat's anchors so that the boat could get by, they finally got a line in to land, after Willis went out and took ahold of the towing canoe, and they pulled her in. Keri had come down to help in the process, and there were quite a few ed@ing her in to the @l@t that they had dug as she came in, Willis had argued with me that the bottom of the metal keel fin on the boat was sharp, and I couldn't convince him otherwise. They finlally got her all the way in and moored, and as it began to rain I left for home. Willis asked me where I was going, and I answered, "Where else?" I stayed in my trunks all the rest of the day. They were actually Craig's, the ones that I had taken to Ambon by mistake and given to Mother to return, and she had brought them back in her things. I played Willis' HI FI in the night. Mother and I had been correcting Yom's story in the afternoon. Kate-Kate, Thursday, January 4, 1968. I went back to sit on the John after breakfast, and before I returned the Willises and Margi w@i Marcella had already left for Laha. I read some, talked to Mother some, played radio some. At my urcini@B Mother went to visit Keri at his house, and I followed later, and we sat and talked. I had been talking to Apong Workala in the meantime, though, while she had been making my bed. She had told me about the wonderful outpouring of the Spirit at Sarua, and about how the Protestant minister had given his heart to the Lord by his own self, and been filled with the Spirit. It was very interesting. I asked her where she intended to work after school, and she said she intended to return to Sarua, of course, but would follow the leading of the Lord. She was a little nervous, talking to me, but did all @ight, and I think that the girl has intelligence. She used a broader vocabulary than most of them. Kate2 seemed almost like before in those few hours, and my mind was struck again with the material universe around me. Something that I have largely learned to neglect or ignore, but something that is pertainant to the finness of one's soul, nevertheless. I was almost able to think as a child. To use my imagination again. At least my own childhood was what I seemed to associate with what I was experiencing briefly then. I thought of this as I sat alone on the porch, evidently completely free from the influence of anyone else. It had never been that way during the time when the willises and the others had been in the house, and I had almost forgotten just what it was like. It was like conjuring up an impossible past out of eternity. I long for that old condition of my youth as I type now. The old peace and security of my home. Willises didn't get back until about 2 pm, and I was really getting bored. We ate a good meal that Tante Baba had been waiting around to serve. Then Willises went to rest. I was all packed and ready by the time they wanted to leave after his bath, and I sat in the back of the truck on the way in, reading from one of their Reader's Digests about an ejection over the Pacific, and subsequent rescue. By the @ime we reached town I was sick. They let me off at my plaSe on Tana Tinggi. I rested. Went to the church and gave Paul the Digest I had just finished reading to be returned to Willis together with a LIFE of his . Returned home. Bathed. Ate a little. Listened to radio some, etc. I guess F@@œ really got away today. I found out about the relationship after asking today, having learned that he was from JANUARY 1968 Saturday, January 6, 1968. Up a little late. Everything closed up at the church, and I later found that Paul and family and the two Hukom kids were successful in leaving by ship to Java today. I found Ama at Chak's house, and he said that he had helped to load Paul's things on board. I had bought segel paper and gotten some cable forms from Ais Titalei at the PO before I went to Chak's, and I had passed by the church. Ama went with me and got my impressions made at the 1@ilat" (tukang gigi). The tukang gigi used a mixture of some gum that tasted something like damar for his impression taking material, and did it very quickly. Ama and I went to the harbor to ask about a boat to Namlea and I met Manaseh again at the entrance. Ama came back, but at Maneseh's suggestion we all went back in together to ask but found nothing. Then we went up to that office that takes care of Sangsuria's affairs, and they said that there wouldn't be any more news about the Sangsuria until next week. Ama decided to go back to Oma , and we parted company. I saw Willises at the Naga Kuning, and called to them in English, @k@ jokingly, but they didn't seem to hear. Then they came over to me and Jack asked if I wouldn't come over to Kate2 and spend the night. I had to turn him down, as I still have some things that need taking care of. I bought some cable at the Naga Kuning and a bicycle generator outfit at the bicycle shop nearby. Mother spoke again tonight, but once again it rained so hard that I couldn't very well go. I was out waiting for beca, but it got too dark for me to see. I felt sorry that I couldn't be there tonight. Went to sleep with the radio on, and woke up with a woman in bed with me speaking words of love softly in my ear! Shocking? All it was was a radio program from the Philippines with poetry. How disappointing! It was one of these N@ stations that fade out and in, and it just happened to fade back in a@ain then. Mother and I had intended to go to Bakarbessy's but it was too rainy to go. Sunday, January 7, 1968. Went to church, using a beca part of the way, if I remember. Keri spoke a message about Paul or something, but I wasn't really listening. I was engrossed in the story of David running from Saul. We had dinner at Tante Eng's. Then, with the better weather, Dias had made the statement that he believed that it wouldn't rain this evening/tonight Mother came to my place at four in the afternoon and we went on to the raja of Wai's house, where we sat and talked for some time. We didn't really have an opportunity to bring them to the Lord, though. From there Mother and I went up to the church, and finding that we were early, and Yo atu there, and the door to the office open I pulled out a couple of chairs and we sat down. Mother presented a good sermon about the widow woman and Elisha, the holy man of God. Teko Luhukai took me home with others in the jeep. Mother had asked me to pray for a young fellow who was seeking the Spirit, but I couldn't feel the leading of the Spirit for i@@l@@ Ambon, Monday, January 8, 1968. Went to the library and studied and typed. Then took a beca to r Is, typewriter and all, and had lunch there, even though I was late. Me@@e@-we@@-hem@ I was surprised to find Keri and Franz sitting at the office when I came to church. Franz had yelled "salah" at me when I almost missed the gate and almost ran into the barbed wire, and I scolded him a little for it. We got to talking, and the Willises and Mother arrived, and I was surprised to find us late for the meeting while sitting there. Chak had also come in and sat down. Willis and I sat in front on the left, and Sister Willis sat just behind us. I kidded Tince Gasper in English, and Willis commented on how much she was like a niger. I guess I had the wrong spirit in me from the start, anyhow, I couldn't seem to get a blessing. Buce Mahulete led the service and Chu led songs. Mother spoke about Christian businessmen. I went home with the Willises and we had popcorn late at night, and I sat reading TD@E after they had gone to bed. Willises are so sociable, really. Tuesday, January 9, 1968. Went to ask about Ana at Chak's. Found Chu and Tos there, but no Ama, they told me. This was after I had gotten my new teeth fitted at "Kilat" for only 12@), gone back to get the rest of the money 1300), and paid the man. He had fitted them with a file and even a chip of glass as a rasping tool. Quick work, though. From Chak's Tos went with me to do some shopping, but insisted I have lunch on him, even though I was supposed to eat at Eng's. He said that he had lots of money and was opening a restaurant in a few days, and he later said that Lohi was to be the cook. We ate at Chu's, and who should walk in while we were eating but the Willises! Tos told me and I told him to be very quiet and we moved over by the wall. They saw us first thing though, and Sis Willis missunderstood our fun and thought we were being quiet because we were embarrassed. They would have sat elsewhere, but I made them sit with us. I had bemt back and said hello to Chu before we started eating. After we were done Tos took a picture of the Youth Camp back to show Chu, and told me later that they had given him qn@@s", and that it was so good that you couldn't eat very much of it without getting tired of it. I said goodbye and left Willises eating. January 9, 1968, continued. We were overjoyed when Ama arrived in a little while later. He had remembered to bring some cloves for Tante Tin. He left and Mother left (after a hug and a kiss). Tinus came with uncertain news, and I think the Tante made him a cup of tea and put fried bananas there and he wouldn't eat them or something, but this is all sort of fuzzy in my mind as I write. I think Mother was still there when he came and he had acted ashamed around her, which he should have been. Tinus went to check on the boat once more, but before he returned Chak and Ama had arrived in Chak's car, and we set out for the harbor also. As we were about to get in the car Yohannes Manusama was there and shook my hand and asked if I remembered him. He and his daughter were bound for Oom Ipi's, where she was taking lessons. When we returned after a fruitless quest, and a sort of high pressure interrogation of the boat's crew by Chak, who seemed just a little too cocky for me then, we returned and after Chak and Ama had gone again I went across the street and found Manusama still there, and talked with him a few minutes. Then I went on to the church, where I fs@*d heard Tante O @'s voice and found that Willises had come. keri and Josef were also there and we sat on the right front side, Keri and Josef on my right.Willis came and sat on my left a little later. Ama went up and played the guitar. Chak led the service, and Paul Matatula the singing. He had us (Paul) stand right back up to sing a chorus after we had just sat down. Keri and I sanghard, but Willis complained of a headache and expressed relief when there was a trio, with one of the girls a future student in the Kate2 school. Mother spoke on the Ten Virgins tonight, but she was too tired out, poor soul! I went with them as far as my place in the truck. Sis. Willis hadn't come, so there was plenty of room in the front seat. Mother intends to stay at Kate2 until Friday, then Willis will bring her directly to Tulehuin the truck. Wednesday, January 10, 1968. I was at the library studying and typing all morning. Tante Tin fed me a meal, with some kind of good noodle soup. Then I received Yohannes Manusama for a talk as I had promised him at Ipi's house yesterday. He was only a few minutes late, and was in a hurry to go again because he had another appointment, but he stayed awhile longer when it rained and Tante made us a glass of tea. We talked about progress and philanthropic ideas. He is planning to move a group of people from Abubu to Labuan, near Namrole, on Buru. He said a Japanese reported that you can refine coconut oil by mixing it with crushed coconut hull charcoal, then letting it settle. I was sorry that we didn't have more time to talk. Tinus came and left, and I can't remember if it was today that he had tea with me. I was just preparing to hire a couple of becas when Ama didn't show up and there wasn't any means of transportation when who should show up but Jack Willis?! He had tea too. Then we loaded my things up and he took me down to the boat in his truck. Poli was in the back, and he helped us to load up. Willis and I stood around and talked. Then he left. Inye of Waeplau was there. Also Odik of Namlea. Also a Chinese boy I had played chess with once. La - - something or other. Tinus came and went. Came and said that Ama had left home on his way to the harbor 3/4 hour ago, they told him at the nu@e. Then he left for a long time. I prayed. The Chinese boy asked whyl didn't rent a ee@: for 500. I said I would be glad to if I could put my things there, and said that I didn't care if I could sleep there or not, as long as my things were safe. I couldn't see a thing, but he made the deal and helped get my things below in the darkness. How kind a thing for him to do. Ama arrived at last, in answer to my prayer. I had really @ro@n concerned about him having met with some disaster or something, but he had only been held up by the guard at the gate all this time, and when he had asked for his pass so that he could go home if he couldn't go, they had let him pass. He said he thought they wouldn't have let him through because he didn't have a vacci nation certificate. I was overjoyed. As we pulled out he told me how he had thought that maybe the Lord wasn't letting him go because he wasn't holy enough, or something, but he knew that it was the Lord that had let him through. I had paid Tinus 200 for his services. Then he had gone to buy some food for us. He brought us some "terang bulan" cakes and bananas, and said that there had been 10 left over, and asked me to tell Ama, -who was below looking after the things,- that he had taken ten "to pay his beca fare home", and I would just about bet anything in the world that he never set foot in a beca that day. Ama went below, and I tried to sleep, with people crowding the little piece of mat that I had unrolled. It was one of those impossible, dreadful, Indonesian nights, with the fellow who monopolized most of my mat im *acting that I was his wife or something and curling up against my rear end. A little boy who had the worst smell lay across where my head should have been, also on that little portion of the mat that I had unrolled. Once when I returned from relieving myself there wasn't even enough room to recline, so I did a typically Indonesian thing. I simply leaned on them and reclined on them until they moved a little and I could lie again. JANUARY 1968. Ilth, continue@@- neighbours gsthered in. I packed the tSin8s back to the kitchen. Supposing that they must b@ thS Oait". Sure enou8h, there were soon less of them (people or nei8hhours). @artin Lesbata came and we talked a bit. Ama and I were @ery tired but eot a bath at @artin's, as he had asked us to. @hen we went lookini for food, and Doul Bamatraf cal@@d to us from that shop on the corner. we went all the way down to the Menadonese place but no one had rice fixed yet, so we had some coffS@at the Menadonese place (near the PO and went home II askSn@ for rice unsuccessfully at Man's once more. When we had s@opped at Man's the :irst time he had made us sit down and started his bickering conversation up until we had had to pull out, @ochdar h8d been there, but was qui@t throught the tempest, He has been that way so often that it becomes evident to me that he does that on purpose to show me he dosn't like this fana@ic Muslim business. Ama and I had stopped at his house on the way home too, an d I had 8@ve@ his kids some candies I had bought for them at the Menadonese place. At home Ama and I ate some of my provisions and went to bed. I got thirstier and thirsties, but went to sleep some and woke up wrin@ing wi@h perspiration. @e had dinner at Tante Mima's in the evening. At home we put up the kelambu, talked a long time, and slept without the benifit of mousquito bites. I had listened to the radio before went to sleep and got the news. Im beat me twice at chess this PM, and I couldn't aeem to get my heart into it. Tired, I @uess. 12, FRIDAY. - @e took our time about aetting up this morn@ng. I had nasi pulut and Ama had pisang goren@ at Man's with our coffee this mornin3. Then we pounded the offices. At the police they cheated Ama out of about 80 rupiahs or so, but On Salasiwa iwho I had seen yesterday) was Fleasant, and told us about one being ressurrected from the dead at a dana village just recently. We had lunch and cofeee at Mima's on the way home, and Am@ told some stories. At home we worked fitting latches, and I typin8. @ Sileki boy from Waeplau came in while I was typing and Ama got @oing talking to him till I couldn't make any pro@ress for a long while. On the way to the Police, someone had called to Ama, and it was a fellow from Oma who was staying at the @@kano h9use, He @as @oing hunting this afternoon, and promised to tBke Ama @@-hs-e@ms-@@-@@ at ni@ht if he came. The h8nting trip didn't turn out. 13, Saturday, Namlea.- Went asking all around for a bol or trunk to put the t@@4@ I brought fro@ Ambon in. Man and tok@ Batubual both had chests that they wanted @p2,500 for. Old and very well used things for that impossible price. Batubual had a crate for four hundred rupiahs, but it was dirty and not in good condition, On our way there a@ain Ama spied just the thing we needed in the GAPIP godown, and it only cost us Rpl5O! Ama carried it home on his shoulder and I went to try to see the @ps, but failed. @e spent the a@ternoon packing, so 8utt by the time we had the crate nailed shut and went looking for transportation the truck had already pulled out. i@@ 14, S@u@t@y, K@amlea.- We held hasty devotions, butdid no morethaawhatwehaddone all the other days,-simply reading a passa@e and then praying,- since we had arrived. $e had asked the Army truck to wait for us but it @as pulling out just as we arrived. I called several times for it to stnp as it moved off up the hill. There were several men in uniforms Btanding around in front of their headquarters and we were approaching along the PO street. None of them made a move to help us. The chauffer evidently didn't see us. There were Chinese girls in the back of the truck and they looked at us, but not one of them would so much as knock on the cab for us. I grew wroth sith those standing around when they laughed at and scorned me for missing the truck when not a one of them would make a move to h@lp. Then I felt sorry that I had dessicrated our s&bbath with an@ry @ords and @ith trying to leave on that day in the first place. Ama and I went hiking in the rest of the day. @e stopped at the Jiko Besar cajuput distillery where we drank some @re@i coconut juice and ate the tender meat of the fruit, for Nhich I made the boy a present of RplO. Bew@-at-@@@-@e@s@- It was the same distillery that Puan and I went to that time with Tina. Down at the beach we found them pulling in baby sharks about a cubit long on right after the other using live teri that they grapple-hooked from the limbs of the mangrove trees for bait. It was a pleas antscene, and thesepeople seemed more pleasant. I sat on the s@d alittlewhile and watchf@, It was threatening rain from the interior. Ama and 1 went on and sat at an exFosed place where I tun@d in my radio on FEBC and got a sunburn while Ama, after being unsuccessfu@ in getting me to go on to a better spot, found shelter under some bushes or weeds or something. It rained on the way home and Ama and I took refu@e for a time under some trees, where we had a heart to heart conversation. It rained even after we arrived home, till we had to wait to Lri eat. 15, Monday, @amlea.- Im came to my place after I had been to his. He spoke of going with us. I had stopoed off at Krikhoff's on the way home, but my taperecorder still wasn't working. JANUA@Y 1968. Namlea - sawa, l5th, continued.- R@m@t@af f@mily. I gave Ama the bed while I used the floor. (on a mat, of course . 16, Tuesday, Sawa - Silmai.- After a breakfast of coffee and pulut rice at the Bamatraf's house Ama and I got on the Army truck from Namlea and rode it to Lamahang, where I disembar ked at the coffee shop with the thin@s but Ama stayed with the truck till Waeplau to visit Noce Haum@h@. we had had a top horse abo@rd the truck as far as WaePerang. I drank coffee as I waitedfor @map and when he returned ee walked on to Silmai, @oosing our way in the stream where they had made the new garden. At Silmai we found the Solisa's and Mukaconto there. Puan hadn't come with them. Andi said (when I asked him that she hadn't shown any intention to. Budin had already gotten the church building project underway, and one of the men from GriaLaSet had already been cutting the ti@bers. Ama preached a nondescript sermon about something or the other in the evening service. 17, Silmai.- Am@ and some others went early to hunt, but returned unsuccessful. @e spent the day resting. solisa suggested Ama a@ain as speaker for the evening service, appearantly because he couldn't very w@ll su@@eat himself, and didn't vant to su@@eat me. Another nondescri@t sermon. 18, @@ !@? Silmai - Hatawano.- Offto a ratherlate atart. Andi carried Ama'sburden as far as the forkd near Waeplau, and I sent the little saron@ that Margi and @arcella had given me as a present to Lesan, who has some of *y things at @@ his house. I slipped and st@ggered and fell all along the slippery way. till we got to the road. I let Ama carry hisb@rden through @teplau,but thenl took it from him and car@iediton to NaUra, wherel got the hamper that I had sent on to Samsu's. We talked some, and Samsu's wife fed us our 1 lunch with plenty of pork from a boar that they had recently shot. Ama dot too carried away with fixh stories to do mush good testifying. I spoœe to him about this later as we wer wal kin8 on toward Samala@i. I gave Chatib 15 of my sul@as-chinin malaria pills there. @e forded the Samala@i inland, where I had bathed a time or two, and reached Batawano in the gathering 8100m. There was a superb storm scene as we ap@roached, and I just wanted to s@and and gaze out over those heavy, short seas pound n the rocky beach. Bapa Muta received us. in-dn 19, Friday. Hatawano @aenibe.- We were off to an earlier start this morning after a very light breakfast of a @lass of coffee and a couple of fried bana s or so, I gave Muta @p>OO after breakfast, the nking him for all his many goodnesses. All had on the trail were some kuin@s , a mango and a half a pineapple that Ama found along the path all the way @@ ""di="9p through stream and rain to @aenibe. There a woman called to Ama, and we found ""@' that the teacher Latuperisa's wife was from Oma too, and they had us for dinner, for which they went all out and killed a chicken! Ama slept ttiere and I at the kepala soa 's, who is 81s0 said to be a matgueul, I had been to Wala's house late, as I had promised him to come but the @uru's wife had b@en a long tim@ cooking. Then I sat up till about midni@ht with the kepala soa, who talked to me about my work and Buru and his plans to go into the interior sometime after Au8ust this year and rally support and then overthrow the king of Licela. I was flattered that he should confide in me. He said that if I should see Mate- Besi of Asukedawain to let him know he was coming, I had bothered the kep@la soa for a @lass of drinking water, not realizing what trouble it would mean to him as he @ad to unlock the back door and go out to the kitchen in back to get it, but I @as satisfied with plenty. @e brouiht the pitcher along with himi To bed after 12. Very tired. 20, Saturday. Waenibe - Selmai.- We had breakfast at the guru's and at the kepala Q@a's both. Heavy rains detained us so that we couldn't get away till about 10 AM. The kepala Soa arran@ed for a couple of lads to guide us across the Waenibe, and after the@ insisted r re@eatedly I let oBe of them take my thin@s. We for@ot to wear some sort of headgear in d4fiance of the superstition the D@. had told us about . went on in the rain after t@anking them for ttieir help. The water had been deep but the current wasn't swift. It came up about as far as our chests. Had stopped at Wamlana soaking wet, but couldn't find the Wakil or Tahir there. I fell from an embankment that I didn't see where the Wamlana had eaten away the sand, and broke my precious 600cc bottle of anthelmintic on a rock, getting my clothing wet with the syrup. I kneeled and cried or whimpered in the sand while Ama went to rinse my things. It had cost Rp900, and the people needed it very much. Through more streams and over more trails and beaches till we arrived at Selmai, at about a quarter to six. He went to bathe hurriedly and returned to see if we could pick up a radiogram from Ambon, but I couldn't recognize RRI Ambon and we failed a@@@together. I was surprised to find the radio dry and okay in its plastic cover. Ama and I testified in the evening service, and Puan preached a befuddled sermon on the "Ten Virgins" parable. I tuned in Sileki on FEBC. We had a horrible,sleepless night of mosquitoes. Ama had fled to the church and I found him JHmu@l9@. 21, continued.- Corry and Puan rendezvoused with Salasiwa at Airbuaja (Oom Nik) and they went to WaeBeso this afternoon. There Salasiwa straightened out the tribal elders on freedom of religion. We now have about a dosen new converts there. They arrived home too late for the evening service, so I led @@@-A@@-s@eke playing my @uitar, and Ama spoke. They arrived before service was out with good news from WaeBeso and greetings from Salasiwa. Am@ was t&lking bois@erously so I Just went outside and sat on the little knoll in the center of the compound playing ny guitar till late. I slept better with a fire tonight. 22, Monday. Selmai.- Up late. Coffee, Ama off with A@us to look for a tree to build the canoe from. He returned with a bunch of @a@an@ nuts, which he thinks the Buruese don't know what to do with. We worked some toward moving the house, but stopped at Puan's behest when she came out to inspect our work, being short of manpower. Ama had told me about Sarawang's invitat@$n for ws to come to dinner and his move to repent. A@a sat and st struamed the guitar, but I got him to help me look for a paddy site. I worked awhile alone in the afternoon near Kofi's house to prepare a paddy, but wasn't very successful, I returned to the house,took one of the rattan chairs out in back of the k@tchen and sat reading from @understanding Chemistry". Baris came and stood by me as Ama and Corry werepreparing to leave for the village with our passes, and I talked some to him after finishin8 my chapter. I encouraged him to start coming to services a@ain. Some of the people here had evidently told him not to come so as to relieve the friction between them and his parents. Baris and Alasan went looking for a paddy site with me and we found a better site downstream from the co@pound. We worked some and returned. I bathed and went to Sarawang's h@use **@@-P-- at Selmai Selmai-nangan with Puan, where we waited for and had supper with Corry and Ama who arrived just as we were about to go ahead and start eating without them because it was getting too dark. We learned that there was a woman having maternity difficulties at WaeSeren who had requested prayer, and that Yakub was going to her. She had made her delivery but no afterbirth. I went up to the church to bring the t@in. before the Lord vhen we got back, and the others followed me there later and we p@ayed for some time. We practised singing till late, then ate s@3@@@- boiled gajang @uts ana Ama told of his love affairs with Sari and others. We laughed and laughed at Ama's atories. Then I came and stood at the head of his bed and coun cilled him about talking too much after he had lain down. We talked on even after I had gone to my own bed, and Ama's mind groped for what approached brilliance in those moments. If only he had had some upbringing! The mosquitoes were horrible @kx* in the night. Puan came and rekindled the fire. Ama had fled. 23, Tuesday. Selmai.- Had to scythe with my spade to clear the a@ang2 grass today, as I have no tools to clear the land. Baris came to me as I was bathing in the late af@ernoon and said that ne couldn't come to the service to@ight as he was @oing to be at Airbuaja. I couldn't bring myself to sing in the evening service as the rasping of Ama's strumming on my guitar seemed to @rate into my very soul. I had received 2 sets of fine classical strin@s from Mother, and fitted the guitar vith one of them, and it hurt me to hear them so rou@hly abused. Ama seem@ to have commandeered my @uitar. Ama spoke from Psalms, but I could seem to get no sense out of it. @@ 24, Wednesday. Selmai.- Inhuman suffering from mosquitoes all these ni@hts here. Stayin@ up very late and not getting enough sleep, The weather is brightening up nicely, though. Puan and Corry wouldn't eat lunch with us except with the greatest reluctance, and when puan wouldn't even open her mouth when Ama asked her to pray it was I who left the table. I went out and worked moving the walls of the house. Corry came out and be8ged me to quit @ut I wouldn't. The @irls made coconut oil in the afternoon. I later worked my paddy some more. Puan, Corry and Ama were sitting outside when I returned. 25, Thursday. Selmai.- 26, Friday. Selmai.- @$+@A@e@-th@ I spent the night with comparatively few @osqu@toes under the pastorate, and before I was even out of @Jed" in the mornin8 a couple of fellows had come to see about moving it. @e moved it before breakfast, Ama took the leadership, knocking out supports, etc. He alone was under it knocking out the last supports. I was watching and Yarned him of the possibility that the whole thing might keel over and crash do@n sideways toward the east. He said he thought no. *hen taken a better look, As it turned out it went just about the way I had warned, and I expected Ama to end up underneath, JANUARY 19@9. 26th continued,- but he darted out, cuick as a wink, and stood laughing nervously on the west sidel We all got on the inside and lifted amd found we were able to move the whole roof part to the new site. Ama told 8m Thomas to shut up, that he didn't know anything; and Ama was just a wee bit ri@ht. @hen Corry added her say and he told her to shut up too. @his was hard on her e80. Wadu began a long seizure just as we were finishing up with the house. Corry had @otten up looking an@ry when a wom@n had brought her tithe of cucumbers inthe afternoon and complained that she didn't want the people to bring tkeir produce as tithes but their money. I had been talking to Puan about how to handle the financial problem this sort of tithing brough about, but felt that it was fine that the people were bringin@ food. I @ad been called from my work at the paddy to or@y for dadu, and it sas only then that I learned of his s@@@ure. He uas in bad sAape. Corry was with him, 2nd had been @@h@kl@@XXS@ pleading the blood. I askfd them to bring some coconut oil, and prayed a simple prayer with weeping, @ne Buruese in the house wept with me. @adu kept @etting worse and worse after this, his attacks coming at shorter intervals, but he being unconcmmus all the whil@, evidently. Ee rubbed his right knee bare on the bar@ floor of Yakub's @itchen. nis head and should@rs were @iery hot while tht rest of his body were @ooler. After I p@ayed I had kept cold water packs on his Sorehead and head to try to lower the temperature. I later tieB his legs when I found that they had left him to rub his knee so bare. @e was filt@y. In the evenins service *e@e-ws we were interrupted before I could finish my sermon on the 23rd Ps@@m by a little boy who came and stood in the back door and announced that Wadu was trying to eat his hand. @here were and had been loud rebukings and exhorcisin@s from the direction of Yakub's house. I @sked stopped and asked if there were any man at Yakub's and when they told me no I asked just one man to leave and make sure that everything was all ri@ht. IrebukedCorryandAmabothatthedinner li;@n good-naturedlyandonlylau@led, nuisance of himself. Fortunately the people es@@ all z@ Saturday. Se@@l.- I spoke dramatically on the error of Buruese adat in the evening service, and finished by speaking from the first verses of 1 John >. I rebuked Puan at supper for the lifelessness with which she led the service. @nen Corry later told me that she h8d been crying, @-te@@-her-@ha@ I said @ raise the Lord", and told her that that was @ood, As it turned out Puan wasn't angry, and we had a good talk, and Corry adm*@@e@ owned up to some spiritual backsliding on her part since she arrired, 28, Sunday. Selmai.- They had already startedSunday and Unu and a boy came in and sat down on the ratt@n chairs as I was getting up. I spoke crossly to them about sitting here while church was going, tellinb them that we were a worshipping people, and if @ley wanted go come h@re they should be in the church during services. When I got to church and sat down after I had put my things away and S.S. was over I found my @uitar sitting on tSe table so I took it and held it as I sat on the front row. Ama as@ed for it and I said neve r ming, thatl wouldplayit,Itwasjust aslfl didn'tknow how to playii.at all or some thing. This morning was the first time I had played my guitar in several services, and I "ould only do it then with a stru@gle. I felt tense as I played t hat service, whereas I USU8lly feel very natural playing my @uitar. We didn't start singing till all were present and service was started, as I had su@gested before. Puan led the sin8ing with a broken, re repentant spirit, and did well. I spoke on the narrow @ate, and Corr3 later told me that m@ sermon had made quite an impression on Unu. There was a fine spirit that morning. 4 came forward for re@e- salvation and we prayed with them. @hen I asked for testimonies and there were several. There @ere a great num@er of people there tkat mo@ning. We gave out scores of @alaria pills. In the e?ening e@@*ee- service I spoke on the remainder of the first part of 1 John 3, up to the end of t@@ para@ra@h. I wanted to rebu@e them at the e*e@ dinner table but Unu was thfre. @hey had opened the evening service clanL@ng my guitar in direct defiance of my advice. They had lapsed back into automation. @hey had asked prayer again for the Kepala Daerah u@hl). How our precious wine has become mingled with water! 23, Monday, Selmai.- 30, Tuesday, Selmai.- I spoke on Jude 20 in the evening service. @@ Ws@ne@@@v- Selmai.- I wo@ked on the house with the girls. At least Puan. Had brought @DmmY9M. 2, Friday. Selmai.- Got up at about 7 to pray for the men who were going off on a hunt. Ama got up just as the last of them were leaving, and findine out what was going on he quickly borrowed a spear and went after them. It seems that they had tried to hide the matter from him or something. I fastened a clip to the end of my antenna wire. Puan went with me to help in the e@we paddy this morning. We were going to plant, but whem we let the water out it was still too uneven and muddy. She had a dog bite on her leg, but finally got in and helped me to get the thing leveled. Ance, Anto's girl, came and we sent her after a parang. I arrived back at the village exhausted. Shooed Corry and another woman from their washing, bathed, and went to bed. Our hunters returned with a good sized deer all skinned and readyin the afternoon. At Yakub's requestPuan Corry and I went to his house to offer up a prayer of thanksgiving. Corry and Puan seemed to be in too light a mood, so I was more than willing when they said I should pray! I think I asked who should be the one), I went to the church to pray in the early evening. Then spoke on Daniel and the Lions in the evening service. I had been told by Baris that he was going to start to church again tonight. He had gotten and hid the clothing that they had locked away from him. Selmai, Thursday, February 1, 1968. A severe wind and rain storm knocked walls from the parsonage and leaned it over backwards just before dawn this morning. I got up late, and went doggedly backto work on the house. I succeeded in straightening it up again in a rather short time. Agus protested all the while. He wanted me to wait until they could get the whole village together again to do it! I had Agus working on bamboo lath for the blinds all afternoon. Got Ama to help with the wall lashings. I left him to complete the work while I worked on my paddy. I worked leveling it some, but it still slants. When I returned I found Ama sitting talking, the work on the walls only half done. He had"shown them how to make the blinds" and I had to undo the sample he had made with them and do it over again, and discovered that Oom Agus was doing it wrong with me this secondtime, so had to undo his part and do it over once again! Puan went to the beach this morning, and after quite some time returned with some fish that she had bought from the bubu trap people. I rebuked Ama again afterlunch today fortalkingtoo much. The girls went to Airbuaja this afternoon and when they returned they evidently saw the one blind that I had finished and hung up. Then they complained to me and Corry now wanted walls. I was very discouraged. Especially to think that Corry would let Oom A@us work all afternoon long on the project first. Not to mention Antonis going and cutting the bamboo and rattan and Tanel stripping part of it. All of which I paid for! They explained that blinds were okay on an extended varandah, and Puan said that I had used too broad a stock, as the blimds she had seen in ambon were of very narrow lath. It seems that once these people have done a thing one way they can never change. They will have to shut out all the glory of the wilderness for their shabby (Joe: There seemed to be a word here, perhaps "gaba2") walls, I suppose! Ama has been very lazy here, and I dreamed last night that he had made an outrigger that was much too small for me, and that Antonis had told me about it and that we had gone and gotten it and tried it out in Mother's garage at the Hacienda Heights place. It was too small for me. I told Corry to get in and try it and she refused, and when I looked up it was Corry Tahapari! FEBRUARY 1968 Selmai, Saturday, February 3, 1968. Funny coincidence. Childrens story over FEBC featured Daniel and the Lions this morning. Am letting the paddy dry today. Listening to the radio to get all the use out of the batteries as I am about to leave Selmai. Was sitting in the kitchen when the Daniel story came over the air. I have been tuning in on Australia at 11 AM in the mornings to try to get Puan interested in the English. A terrible wave of discouragement is sweeping over me. I had been complaining to Puan as I worked at the paddy yesterday about this feeling. I can't ever get anything done in Buru unless I do it with my own right and left hands. The Buruese are useless people who can't be trusted to get anything done, forget their promises, etc. I went down to the paddy in the late afternoon. Sat down and wept and prayed and asked to die. I thought of going home to the states, but knew I couldn't ever be happy there. I thought about my impossible plight in Buru. In Indonesia, where no one appreciates you at all, and I felt it would be better were I dead. Then I opened my eyes and looked up into the heavens, and I could still see well enough to know that there before me was one of the most beautiful things I had ever seen. The beauty of the wilderness was far above what man could ever ask or think, the contrast of the yellow alang2 grass with the asure sky in the early sunset! Billowing white clouds looming up in utter quietness from the east. The branches of a tall tree silhouetted against them. As if in those etherial fo@ds of fluffy cloud one could lose his soul. There was too much detail there ever to paint with a brush. Enough to discourage the most patient of artists. A thing too perfect. Still I was not comforted. I didn't know what to preach. In the evening service I announced the discontinuation of the Saturday night meeting, as we had decided that there were too many services. I had noticed the spirit of boredom and advised them to do so. I preached a poor sermon on the Holiness required of God in the evening service. Corry went up to where Ama was and sent for the guitar by Alasan, saying that they wanted to practice a song. Puan went out back someplace and when she came back I called her and talked to her, and broke off my engagement with her. I was lying on my back in bed and she came and sat down in a chair nearby. Her reaction was to accuse me of deceiving her. I told her my feelings, and was telling her that if her heart were right in this matter she would naturally want to come and meet my mother in Namlea. Corry had been iraning in the church in the afternoon, and I had taken a cup up there with four paper ballots in it, asking Puan to come along. Then I made them draw and they drew twice both getting a positive and a negative both times. Then I reduced the bits in the cup to two, one positive and one negative, and let Corry draw. She drew the negative, which meant that she would have to stay and let Puan go. They had both said that they wanted to go. Then Puan backed out and said that Corry would feel bad because, according to Puan, she had already told someof the people she was going. Corry later told me that Andi Solisa had warned them both not to walk alone again with me. So I agreed, and told Corry to come With me, that Puan didn't want to go. I was so sick with everything, and the last thing I wanted to do was fight Puan's malu2 business, and I had decided that if this were the way that it was to be, then I surely didn't want to have to be up against this sort of thing all the rest of my life. I told her she was free of me now, and was saying that if her heart were right in this matter she would surely want to go; Corry surprised us, and it seemed that she must have overheard some of what we had said, if she weren't actually eavesdropping. There was an awkward silence. Then I asked if they weren't practicing after all or what. Selmai, Sunday, February 4, 1968. I went to Sunday school and Puan, looking attractive and neat in a skirt with broad horizontal red stripes, taught one of those modern lessons about a boy who sold papers and lived in a barrel and got saved and died in a hospital. I spoke on @ p@@@r 1:5-9, which was rather dull for the congregation who didn't understand most of the @@g nouns.@m ita@ It was dry i concede. As I was lying on my dego2 Baris brought me a bitter letter from Puan, pouring out her confusion disgust and apology. I felt sorry for her, and know that I still love her, really, though how deeply I don't really know. She went out to the new house and sat playing the guitar in the afternoon and I followed her there. I sat talking with her alone, trying to reason with her. Alasan came and left again, Baris too, came later. Then I called for Oom Agus and Corry, and after a long wait after Oom Agus came, and even Puan had walked off, they finally came ithe 2 girls), and I reasoned with Oom Agus in their presence about his behaviour toward Baris. He had been scolding Baris yesterday and telling him not to set foot in his house, as Baris' relatives were up in arms again, and Baris' Mother is OmAgus' sister. lH;: wept and prayed with him, and afterward.I had embraced him as we left as a gesture of 'co ort, % ove. I spoke on the Great White Throne of Judgment from Revelation in the evening. S@J " ' FEBRUARY 1968 Selmai - Waenibe, Monday, February 5, 1968. We never got away from Selmai till about 10 or so, after packing and eating our breakfast. I ate plenty of kasbi so as to avoid being weary from hunger on the trail. What really held us up, though, was Puan. What should she decide first thing in the morning'tA@ She was going with us, and from Namlea on to South Buru. She was all spiffed up. What could I do. I had to humour her, coax her, tease her until I felt she would stay. When we prayed to leave she slipped out, and as I left I looked for her but they told me that she had gone ahead with Corry. How dissappointed I was to learn later on the beach that she wasn't with Corry at all but had gone up to one of the other houses and evaded us completely. She never even shook my hand. I had intended to give her some money for Ama's keep. We met @nu on @i trail on his way to Selmai with some fish. Ama had left with Sarawang and his son to hunt for kusu at Bara. I asked for a canoe for sale all along the way but had no success whatsoever. At Wamlana I saw the Wakil, who said he had malaria and was too sick to make me a letter for me to go to the interior with now, but would do it for me when I came back. He had told me orally to go ahead and go, though. I had told him of my plans to ascend from Wamlana this time. I promised him some pills before I really thought. Then asked Corry if she had the pills I had given her earlier with her. She missunderstood and said "No". I was then forced to give the ones Willis had given me on my word not to give any of them to anyone else, or go back on my promise to give the Wakil some when I had the bottle in my hand. I gave him a cure dose of 8. We forded the Waenibe inland, following Corry, who had been there- that way before. I had a hard time, and jabbed my left eye and only good one, really hard on a twig or something as I stooped, but fortunately it caught me on the skin of the lower lid. At WaeNibe we put in at the Kepala Soa's, where I sat and talked till Corry returned from the Guru Latuperisa's with an invitation to spend the night in an empty house that they were using. That night we only had the remainder of our provisions to eat. I had good conversation with the Guru, and it was either this night or the next morning that he advised me to ask Wala sometime about holding services in his house. I testified to the guru too. There was a good spirit. Perhaps a hunger for the things of God. Kepala Soa said he had met Matebesi. Waenibe - Hatawano, Tuesday, February 6, 1968. We had plenty of kasbi for breakfast a@@- at the guru's, but never got away till late, what with the rain. I think that it was about 10 again. I was so reluctant at the entrance to the trail through the alang2 grass, and wanted to go looking for a perahu for sale. My weariness and discouragement are evidently partly from an abortive attack of malaria, for which I took a pill or two and by. In any case I was weak as water, and had a hard time seein. Perhaps too it was the psychological thing of not being able to use the perahu that I had expected Ama to have finished by now. We stopped at a shady spot on the beach before where you ford the WaePoti,and I lay down on the pebbles in my weakness. I had been in a playful mood, at rest,"anting @dve@@ ` 'Running down slopes, etc. pullingCorry and Antonis backwards when they tried to offer ass*t @@ hand. I felt so blackly discouraged! A heavy laden perahu passed by as I lay there. Corry suggested that it was Puan's anger that made me have such a hard time. It was no trouble to ford the WaePoti this time. I went up to Huna's to borrow a perahu or rent one or buy one, but he was gone to Namlea. Chunga was there, they told me. His house was closed tight, butlad knocked and when he heard that it was I he opened and I found him and some Malay fellows the middle of a gambling card gane, and his eyes looking drunk and the smell of spirits on his breath. When Corry and Antonis came we drank some cold tea. Then Chunga offered his own perahu free as long as I returned with it in a week. There was only one paddle, an when I suggested looking for another Antonis said that he wasn't going to go in a perahu. When I arrived at the beach I found a heavy clumsy Buruese outrigger sitting half full of water. Chunga had warned me that the lashings were a bit loose, but I was really unprepared for what awaited me. The right outrigger was broken just before where it reaches the front strut. I returned Chunga's paddle. Returned to the others at the beach. Took a message for Huna from his wife, and we left. On the rise up from Selubu, Corry suggested that we stay there in the little hut on the hillside for a day or two. At WaePrea I again asked about a canoe, but still no success. I went to the stream to drink, and as I was on my way a woman ran after me to detain me for tea, but I said I felt I needed fresh water. She was evidently a relative of Bazir Tenga2's but I didn't know it. She had such a sincere and compassionate face! I found a beautiful fall after following the sound of the water, and a man bathing there alone. I even asked him if the water was pure, but never knew that it was Bazir till Antonis (Lagie) told me later as we went on on our way. I felt so discouraged with my plight, that I should not even be able to recognize a friend at a time like that, when he had shown me such kindness always. Antonis had been very impressed with the people of Waeprea, and said that they would have fed us if Corry hadn't spoiled it by going on ahead. We stopped andbathed at the second stream to the west of Hatawano. Not the one that flows all dry season, but the next one to the west. It was dark when we reached Bapa Muta's. In fact it was dusk when I reached the stream, and FEBRUARY 1969. 6th, continued.- At the evening meal Bapa Nuta was apologetic because all they had on the table was the famous kasbi (boiled). I told him not to be malu2 with me, as that was what I ate,mostly, whenever I went into the country. I overheard them talking about how the sauce and the papeda were meant for each other, and then I saw that the man to my left had papeda on his plate. I asked if they were melakat-ing. Bapa Muta didn't want to offer me any, fearing enbarrassment, but one of his wives wanted to let me try some. I said that if the boed of t@ chicken had given me the go ahead that nobody could stand in my way, and I got some, and indeed the sauce was perfect for papeda. Bapa Muta said that they had speared the fish. It had rather tough meat for a fish, but was good. I had my usual bed. Antonis stayed with a relative of his wife's but Corry also stayed at Bapa Muta's, and I spoke to her in the inter mediate room as we left the dining room. Hatawano - Sawa, February 7, 1968. It had been calm on the sea from Airbuaja to Hatawano, but from Hatawano the sea took on a rough aspect again. I had mentioned once to someone that the east wind never reached the area passed Hatawano, but found that now, in the west monsoon, there had been wes@e@@@-ee-@e@@@*ee- easterly or northeasterly winds blowing these past 2 days or so. An odd situation. We had breakfast earlier as usual at Bapa Muta's, but only a couple of fried bananas or so. Fortunately Corry had been able to buy a few more for provisions, and we had some o*' the seup above the cliffs, where there were a few canoes fishing below at the time. Antonis hadn'@ even had any breakfast at all. We forded the Samalagi inland, and Corry said that the water down at the river mouth looked dark and wide. Evidently the action of the waves and the current of the stream had washed out the rivermouth to where it was impassable. We didn't stop at Chatib's house or at the Guru Noya's. We only stopped and stood briefly to say a word or two to Samsu's wife. We were very thirsty on the exposed road to Waeplau, and wanted to ask for or buy some drinking coconuts all the way but weren't successful until we were just about upon the village. There we found a widow in her coconut grove, and after asking and receiveing permission to take a few we found that she was the mother of the young Guru with whom I had tea that time at his house in Waeperang. I gave her Rp10 for the 4 nuts that Antonis knocked down. There were no other green nuts on the tree and the trees were tall in her grove and the wind was blowing. It happened that the one the widow got was one that burst when it hit the ground, so she didn't get any water to drink, and she had said that she was thirsty also. I felt sorry. The sun was blazing down. At Waeplau we stopped at Napi's house - where I had lunch that day on my way down - and I was surprised to find that t they were the relatives of Anto's (Mukabasa's) that she had told me about. They gave us a drink and we went on. I stopped to ask at the other Chinese shop for Huna, who's wife had given me a message for him. I found that he had been staying at Inye's. Antonis and Corry went on ahead, as they were going to Budin's. I was hailed by Inye from the road. Went in and visited with him. (It seems that Corry and Antonis were there at first , Then was invited to eat, and had a decent rice meal out back in the breezeway of his spacious house. He offered to sell it to me, as he says that he is moving to Ambon. He complained to me about the Protestants. Showed me his collection of old @@@@ee clay and chinaware. I walked on. At Waeperang I went down to where the bridge used to be. descended down the concrete ruins and hailed a boy on the other side asking for a canoe- he showed me that there was one tied up on my side of the stream. As I went to it there was a young man who came down to the stream on the other side and seemed to take charge. He said unkind words about my eyes and my not being able to see properly. He also asked if I knew how to paddle. I answered a flat no. S@@BX Acted as if I had never seen a canoe before. I paddled with my staff (I had been stopped by the Lieutenant at Waeplau and he had returned the old staff that I had left at his house that time to me. I had heard that the fare was Rp15 per person without freight. I had paddled the thing across the stream myself and even slipped in, and gotten my pants wet in the process because of the awkward way and place it was tied. I had held onto the line and was going to untie it when it came loose and I slipped in. When I got to the other side he wanted @5. He said that the price had just gone up with the motor fare. I complained bitterly and said that the people there were blood-suckers.I took out a Rp50 note and would have paid him his price but he had no change. Cooncidentally there happened to be some people that wanted to come across again on the other side just that moment so he said to wait and get my change from them. I waited and then heard the little boy who went across to get them say "Rpl T' and decided that they had tried to cheat me and I had heard the proof, so I just got fed up, turned my back and walked off. The kids bothered me through the village, some shouting that I hadn't paid. One idiot (an adult) sat at his doorstep and told me that my pants legs were wet as I walked by. They have that unsquelchable attitude about them, where they can't possibly see that the reason your pants are wet is because they haven't done a thing toward repairing the bridge. They can't understand why I don't ever feel the least embarrassed if I enter their villages looking a bit shabby after fording their unbridged streams and walking their muddy paths. I reached Sawa just at dusk and spent the evening with the Ba- FEBRUARY 1968. @th continued.- was in operation, so it left without me, evidently while I was enjoying tea and peanuts and conversation with my Chinese friend. Who should have come in while we were talking but Adrian, that boy from Hunut who used to play ball with us. He had entered the army several years ago and done service in Ceram, and had just been transferred here. I had a conversation and my lunch with the old man, Achmed, and when Abdoul didn't show up by two in the afternoon I set out on foot. It was pleasant at the Bamatraf house, and I have a feeling that Doul's sister likes me a little. She always serves me so nicely and seems s@@@w@@. so kind. I walked to Jiko Merasa and was stopped by the mechanic who lives at Jiko Merasa, where I had tea (at his house). Huna was there and I gave him his message from his wife. Brekan was also there, and we had a lively but light conversation, then I went with the fellows on the truck as far as Lala, where the truck had a flat and they had to change the tire. They were only to go a little farther, so they told me to go on ahead. I walked on. Discovered a way to tow my bundle indian style with my staff and thus take a load off my very sore foot and go faster. Before this I had walked with a man and his wife on their way to the fields, and they were very polite to me, and if I remember rightly they asked me to stop at their house if I were to be by Lala again. There is a waterfall that you can hear inland from the road, and they told me that it all goes down into a cave, but that the stream only runs in the rainy season. How strange a thing in a place like that! I made it to Namlea before dark and had supper at the Menadonese place before going on to the house (my house). I found the place empty, and just as Ama and I had left it. I felt grateful when, after going down to Oom Andi's bathroom by faith, I found just enough water in the drum for my bath. His house was all closed up and no one was around. I stopped at Martin's to ask for a pelita, but he was gone, and they didn't even have one to light their front room. I later got one from Gerson, and was relieved when he didn't stay after giving it to me, as I don't trust him in my house after loosing my pomade that time that he helped me when I arrived before. Namlea, Friday, February 9, 1968. Went to Krikhaoff's and sent Mother a cable and Morris a cable. The one to Mother was asking her to come on the Ampera, which we expected in the morning, only to receive a cable hot off the wires from Sis Luhukai telling me that Mother was leaving today on the Ampera! Krikhoff told me that Abdoul had sent my other cable day before yesterday. Namlea, Saturday, February 10, 1968. I played chess with Ibrahim and testified the strongest ever to him this afternoon. I think that he listened for the first time. I think that it sobered him some. Namlea, Sunday, February 11, 1968. The Ampera never showed up today, and I thought that perhaps it had gone viaLeksula. I did an emergency job of housecleaning as I waited, feeling that it was pardon able this Sunday since Mother was arriving. I moved all the lumber outside under the windows and moved the bed into the bedroom after throwing out the kitchen business and sweeping the w Namlea, Monday, February 12, 1968. Still no Ampera. I met Krikhoff in fromt of the bazaar today and he said that the Ampera had been cancelled. Im came and played a few games with me in the afternoon. Quite a few, in fact. I could feel a different feeling about him. As if he expected to hear more or something. Could never feel the freedom to speak to him today though. We just played, losing to each other and then after several games I showed him the pictures of the Arab - Isreali war in NEWSWEEK, and he sat and read for awhile. Namlea, Tuesday, February 13, 1968. I received a cable from Nother today telling that she had tried to come on a B.O. boat but had been forced (they had) to return because of heavy seas. Namlea, Wednesday, February 14, 1968. Went and sent cables to Mother and Morris. I was reading when Andi and Antonis arrived and Gerson heralded their coming. Not too long after I went out to receive them Corry and Dortea arrived too. I told them that I couldn't receive them into my house as I was expecting Mother, but they said that they could stay with Bert. I feel fed up with Andi and Dortea, and mean to get them out of my hair. I went to Maruanaya's and arranged for Corry to stay there and eat there. Antonis I accepted to stay with me for the time being and to eat out with me. I went and bought a big hand of bananas at Oom *lbin's and brought them so that my guests could eat, as they wouldn't get dressed and go to Man's with me for a meal Antonis later told me that Corry had returned from Maruanaya's and didn't want to sleep there because there were a couple of bachelor teachers there, and, according to her there wasn't enough room for her without making the kids sleep on the floor. I had asked repeatedly to make sure that there was room enough, and Maruanaya had said there was. When Antonis and I returned from Jasim's, where I had to end up taking him to eat as the other places were closed and I had already eaten at the Menadonese place, we met Andi and Mrs. Maruanaya on their way to look for Corry and Dortea. It was late when they all returned, and I didn't recognize Corry's voice so I supposed that she must have changed her mind and decided to sleep at Maruanaya's a ***** Next item: POS UDARA The Great Jack Willis, Most Honorable Explorer of the Island of Buru (and other islands of the Moluccan Archipelago!), Captain Of the Good Ship "Kapal Indjil), And Our Hero! .......... W A E P L A U Namlea, Thursday, April 11, 1968. Dear Jack, We are surprised and a little overjoyed to hear that you have arrived safely in WaPlau. The man that bears this letter to you is my spy in WaPlau, Onko Inya, and he can show you around and maybe even let you get in on a little Chinee cookery if you rub him the right way. He's a good fellow, and trying to sell me his house but we don't want anybody to know it yet. We are just back from Airbuaja, and I heard that we left Budin's house just the same day that you arrived! How do you like that? Anyway, Mother says that she had dreamed she saw your fat legs coming through the jungle in a pair of shorts and tennis shoes! I sent GENCIL AMBON a cableearly this morning that said that you had made it through to Waplau, but I could not say how you were in it. Only now, my Chinese friend tells me that you are pretty tired, and I can see how you would be! Ama Uneputi has returned to Ambon by KDN, but we hear that the boat has been lost at sea, and I feel desparately worried. Only good news is that yesterday they sent out the "Arafura Sea" to look for it. It has been about ten days now, and I suppose that the little children aboard must be beginning to die if they haven't gotten some water from someplace. My new outrigger is beached in front of Lim Liong Kui's house and a little to the sunup side. I want it here and if you have a dependable boy with you you can let him paddle it here for me. I don't want it dragged on the beach though. I had intended to return to waplau to get my canoe by now, but Mother simply refuses to let me go. Sorry I can't come for you, but I talked to Mother about going to you and she begged me to stay. Please forgive me, but You seem to be OK from what they say, so i'll wait for you here. You can Walk to Waeperang where the bridge is out in 1 1/2 hours, and get a car from there. If there isn't any there there is a truck from Sawa, another hour's walk down the road, just about every morning at 8:00 AM. We have bread and other goodies here in Namlea, and we're waiting for you. My house is very small though, so I won't have room for all of you if there are many, but maybe we can put part of you up other places. PS Puan Solissa is here and Corry is at Airbuaja. They tell us that landing boat No. 10 will be in in a day or so, and it is a faster boat back to Ambon, that makes the trip in 8 hours, and is a comparatively new boat. I hope to get Mother back on that. I think that your coming has been very timely for the work in the mountains, and I suppose it came as a great shock to those that oppose my coming to find that they have been outflanked from theLeksula side by more Americans still! Would I ever have loved to see the look on Nawas Natsikit's face when he saw you! It would have tickled me so! So much for now. Hope to see you tonight, but will see you when you get here and not before, I guess. Sincerely yours, Chaumont Devin. MAY 1968 1st, continued.- sounds on the way upstream. There were evidently a couple of strange Buruese birds fighting and making a real to do in a tree or thicket near the streambank, but I was too concerned with making good time going upstream to record then. It was before I had gotten up to where the lumber camp was. Now on my way back, gliding swiftly downstream, I was taking the time to experiment. The sounds were too weak, really, to be good, and with the amplifier turned up to high to catch them the mike made too many noises. I did get one strange one that is not uncommon in Buru, though, and Puan said later that it was a maleo. It was really too late to record now; there was a lot less activity in the wilderness as the day wore on. It was stiflingly hot. It was overcast. It was gloomy. There was a headwind that arose. my canoe rushed heedlessly on, driven by the relentless current. At one place there was that smell again that could have been from crude oil. I didn't see the place where the stream bubbles, though. In the last lap of the river I again heard a splash that sounded heavy, but not as heavy as yesterday's, whatever it had been. At the estuary a scene burst upon my senses that seemed to strike my mind as beautiful. It was the Bugis village on stilts at the river mouth. The roar and the din of the place. Like Makassar. Just like makassar or someplace. One of the houses had well made shutters and frames. another had a geometrical design on its railing. I passed on out to sea and met the returning fish prahus. There were a great number of them sailing in with their triangular sails, mostly died dark brown. The wind was from my starboard bow, and fairly strong for my poor little canoe. I got wet in the nasty mess that had set in out in the middle. There was evidently a current moving against the wind too. I couldn't see the sun to see what time it was. I trolled all the way across and caught nothing. Then i stopped near Namlea to put my damp shorts on in place of my sarong, and my line got caught on the bottom and I had to go to all the work of going back to where it was before I could get it undone. There wasn't anyone who came down to talk to me when I arrived so I had to carry my canoe up alone. I slung my dirty sarong around it and pushed my paddle through the loops that were formed and took the paddle in one hand and the outrigger in another. I put it up on the grass. Puan was not at the house when I arrived so I left my things outside and went to Maruanaya's to look for her. She was gone to wash up at the water hole, they told me. There was only a man there, evidently a guru or something, and a boy who cane and stood in the door and told me that he had been on the canoe with the raja of Kajeli in it yesterday. It was only then that I knew that the raja of Kajeli had been in the canoe that Odik was on. I went down and asked for sugar in the shops (but found none) and had some food at Ima's on my way home. Puan was sitting in my front room when I arrived. She had brought my things in and proceeded to show me where they were as I asked for them. I felt sorry about the burden of my eyes. Seri came and said that she had come for the lamp. I went and got water and they waited for me. Then they left. While I was cleaning things up, an Oom Nikiulu cane and said that he was a "Sidang" man from Ambon, and sat down and talked to me while I worked. I had to excuse myself to take a spongebath, and he left shortly after that. I had the hot water on and would probably have tried to serve him a drink of some condensed milk and cacao if he had stayed. I had no sugar, though. Friday, May 3, 1968. Namlea. Saturday, May 4, 1968. Namlea. I had heard over the Morse that the Geser was coming today. Sure enough, I heard "Kapal o!" in the morning and there was her faint chugging. I seemed to be able to hear things before other people. Puan came later and said that Ade Suitela was aboard and that she had sef1 him E;@ th2t ;e had said t@@jti@ I ha@ anything: for i2ul Ae could take it. I was she had seen him and that he had said that if I had anything for i2ul he could take it. I was very busy through the day. Typed a long letter to Paul. Also wrote to Mother. I heard that it would be some time yet before the B.O. arrived (someone said that it was broken down), and then Bakri said that it was going right back to Ambon instead of on to Leksula. I went to Puan at Maruanayas' and talked to her about @us, and she said that she had been thinking about going to Anbon on the Geser, as I suggested. I asked her to let me know. I packed my little suitcase for her to take to Leksula for me. She came and it was about three, and the boat was due to leave at five. I told her to return aMd I would finish up and come to her later. I was very late, and at about a quarter to five she showed up as I was just finishing up and we left for the boat. Fortunately I hadn't really definitely promised to be at Maruanaya's at four, as I had asked if she wanted to come here first before she had left and she had given me a typically Indonesian bai@e reply. Well, we stopped and she bought some bread for her provisions at Hassan's. Then on down to the dock. Maruanaya's wife was with us al; @@@ was. Also one of the kids. (All the was from Maruanayas', that is). I had given Puan six hundred of the remaining money I had to bring here to a@ tven thousand. The boat never left for the longest time, and they pulled another one of those deals where some idiot official jumps on the railing and yells "Semua penumpang turun!"@m@@ After they got the entire @oiœ@ old warf once t railing and yells "Semua penumpang turun!" @x@ After they got the entire @oi E@ @ld w@r: once t the men refused to cast off, waiting for someone who hadn't shown up yet. There was an intelligent seeming, clean dressed young man who shouted at them angrily almost desparately to loose the ropes, but they wouldn't do it. We complained that the @n,@ ie was warn. Still no response. The engine was turned off and we waited again. They finally got under way after I had grown weary of the situation and left and come back. I waved from near the KPS', hoping that Puan might see me as they pulled slowly out toward the markers. While we were waiting I had shaken hands with the priest, Oudenhoven, who was leaving too. I had also spoken to the Dr. and apologized for not coming to his house to pay him for Mother's shot, and tried to pay him then, but he wouldn't accept, and my sense of tact later told me that perhaps he was offended because I had waited till this time to try to pay him in front of all the people. I had asked Puan which one of the people was Ade Suitela, and she called him and I shook his hand and told him "God bless you" and thanked him for his help in bringing me the money that time. I had made out a cable for Puan to send me on the back of an envelope, and told her to make sure that she got it off the first @un@ after her arrival (le to let me know that she was in Ambon) and she had agreed to do so. Sunday, May 5, 1968. Namlea. Really resting today. Spending the day in bed listening to the radio, etc. Of course I had some chores that I simply had to get done in the later afternoon. O, Yes, Tete Salasiwa came and wanted to use my canoe half a day. I forgot it was Sunday at first and readily agreed. Then I thought and asked him if he were intending to go out on Sunday. With the excuse that the tar was fresh I @a%;us and I had just tarred her yesterday afternoon n'il @)t him excuse that the tar was fresh I harkUS and I had just tarred her yesterday afternoon I got him to lay off it until tomorrow. Then I was the one that sinned, thinking of how dry she was, and how she had been washed in the fresh rain water. I went down, turned her back right side-up by myself, and used the remaining tar on the top sides of the outriggers and the inside of the hull. Monday, May 6, 1968. Namlea. Listened for my cable from Puan but no luck all day. I was worried, but not really too worried yet. I had been praying for her right along. I was very busy with one thing and another all day. Tuesday, May 7, 1968. Namlea. I forgot to mention that I had Panji sew my sail yesterday. I had just @s waked when Panji was outside my bedroom calling to me, and giving me the line about his progress with finding me some line for my sail. I let him in the front and found that the little shrew's real purpose was to ask for a little more varnish in the can that I had let him have the end of when he begged for it the day before. I gave him a very little. I haB been all over Namlea yesterdaylooking forcord of any kind without success. I had paid Panji Rp150 for his work, which wasn't bad. I think that it was today that I went and got the bamboo pole from Zainal, Man Kei's son, for my mast. I had to give up on the sail, though, for I had no success whatsoever finding any type of rope or cord in Namlea. I spent the greater part of the day packing, and got a greatdeal done, so that I made definite plans to leave day after tomorrow. I listened to the regional ABC station till late and got a nice play and opera arias. Wednesday, May 8, 1968. Namlea. Busy packing and preparing to go all day. Ran from Ima's in the afternoon after finishing a meal there and had the fish I had paid her Rp30 for in my hand. It was raining and I was in a hurry to get my clothes in. I thought that I was leapin onto the bridge, but instead landed right in the gutter in front of Onko Ade Waeperang's, my nose clobbering his fence on the far side. All my fish were spilled. I found the rantang container but not the lid, and was sitting looking down for it when Doul Bamatraf came riding up on his scooter. I saluted him gaily and relaxedly just as if I had been sitting on the edges of gutters all my life. He was sympathetic. I went back and succeeded in getting some more fish for Rp25. Only had fifty left then, and it cost Rp45 to send the telegram that I had written to Paul telling of my departure for Leksula tomorrow. I bought a hand of bananas for ten at Oom Rubin's and didn't have enough left over for my cable. The thought occured to me to sell my pump up gas lamp mantles. I got Rp30 apiece for four KUPU2 brand and Rp25 for a SOLAR brand one. Then I went on and sent my cable and went on to Wowor's, running and ate plenty of deer meat there for another Rp69, and also bought a slice of bread there for five. It was dark already by the time I was finished, but Mrs. Wowor was kind to me and had a stick she gave me to use as a cane when I left and I made it safely home, only stepping a little on a child in the street on the way. At home I packed furiously on, and did cooking for tomorrow. Now I am finally finishing my diary, and next thing on the agenda is bed. It is ten pm by my watch. Thursday, May 9, 1968. Elias was on the beach and there were several other youths who stood about and helped me and questioned me. I had gotten Elisa to help me by carrying some of my things from the house. There was a strong sibu2 blowing, and the water was a bit rough as I glided out among the waves. I looked at my watch out past Namlea Point and it read 0740. The sibu2 was off my starboard stern after passing Namlea Point, gradually working farther and farther back to directly astern. I had to bail from time to time and got pretty wet. My watch read 1033 hours when I was off Kramat Point. I later rounded a cape from which I got my first view down the stretch of coast to the south at 1140 by my watch. I stopped to eat lunch at 1230 and drifted past a small village and into some riptides off a little point as I ate. I paused a few moments at Waemorat at 1430, holding my canoe in the light surf with my feet hung over each side, surfboard rider style. There I asked where I was and how far Tanjung Saroma was, etc. It was starting to rain then, and the rains got worse and worse. There were heavy black clouds in the vicinity of Batak Bual. From time to time it was hard for me to see the shore. The cool rain was a welcome relief to the scorching sun, though. A motorboat had passed me coming into Namlea on my way out. It passed me again from behind in the afternoon, now (I later learned) on its way to Ambelau, and thence to Leksula. I wasn't sure but what it was a fishing boat then, though, but supposing that Puan might be aboard, I waved with my paddle a time or two, having paddled out some to get near it as it passed. I had supposed it to be a rock in the sea at first, rememberring that "Batu Kapal" was written on my map as somewhere in the general vicinity. I stopped and ate again in the early dusk as I rounded a point that gave me a full view of Ambelau. I felt somehow masterful in those fine moments on the smooth sea in the pale yellow of the hour. I had fine strength, and would have felt invincible but for my eyes. Somewhat later I put in at a house where I had heard voices from the sea, and was informed that I was at Lamu-lea-Ilat, but the matron I addressed said that there were no menfolk there when I asked to spend the night. The beach was rocky in front of the house, so I had to go to the trouble of walking all the way back the distance to the landing in vain. She had said that there was a village not much farther on and i heard voices once again in the dusk. I couldn't see the approach so I banged my canoe on the reef, not understanding that there were calm waters on the other side, and an entrance to the right. I got my canoe half full of water and thought I heard someone say that I didn't know how to paddle. I finally saw a canoe leaving and understood my trouble and made it in by the way they went out. I found Butonese people who received me with some reluctance at first, making me go to their elder first. Then the man that brought me, his wife harangued him about receiving me in Buruese. Finally another man received me into his house. They had Just returned from Ambon in a large outrigger canoe, they told me, so we only had some left over suami from their provisions with some vegetables. I offered *4 30 to the woman that would prepare my provisions for the next day's journey, and they offered me more suami, and another offered me a coconut. We talked as best we could between the blare of 2 radios, and I gave out a tract or 2, and learned that their elder was a teacher of Islam. I asked him to read the tract well as he left. I had enjoyed my well prepared provisions of rice, boiled bananas of my cooking , and fried fish from Ima's. Friday, May 10, 1968. I was up, packed and off shortly after it was light, and had provisions of suami, grated coconut meat, red peppers and salt. The hostess had returned my money in my provisions! I rounded Saroma with an adverse current running. Then chose striking out over the glassy swells in preference to coasting. I met a couple of fishermen far out when I heard fish jumping and approached. I was too late to get in the middle of the school--evidently one of the larger varieties of tuna--but caught a flying fish instead! The hook had fallen from its mouth and I didn't know it so that when I held it in my hand to remove it the fish Jerked free from my grasp on its slick body and slipped swiftly away into the waters. I later caught another and kept him. I had feared the jumping fish to be riptides, and wasn't sure if the canoes were really canoes or not. The men were evidently Butonese, and they said that they were from Point Nala. I hadn't reached the big point yet. I kept wondering if it could possibly be BatuPekat, but it wasn't. After passing it I beheld the far distant Batupekat, thin on the southeastern horizon, leading too far out to sea for comfort. I approached a rock separated from the rest of the coast by a spit of sand, and having other rocks lying half submerged in the sea off its tip. Beyond and farther out to sea the water was frighteningly white with the frothy riptides, and I had a hard time trying to see my way through, and felt the urge to turn back. I went out to survey the situation at liesure, then turned back shoreward and saw a rock awash in the seas ahead. I prayed a moment, then turned my bow into the brew and paddled forward with the thought that I wasn't here for any other reason than that of the work of the Lord. There was the roar of crashing seas all around, and the current was fierce. From there on the seas were rough with rather heavy surf along in front of Oki and confused seas that seemed to converge on the coast behind the island from both sides of it. I skirted the shore seeking the belt of comparative calmness between the riptides and the surf. With poor eyesight it was hard to keep from getting caught in one or the other. I was surprised at my progress even though the wind was contrary beyond Oki, and strong at that. Yet, I made it all the way to the @@@Q@@r harbor just before where the great rocks of Tanjung Batupekat begin. A couple of prahus were anchored there. Today was my best day of paddling so far. I made about 34 nautical miles. I dragged my canoe far across the tidal flats to the grass, Then I went to look for fresh water at the half dead stream, but I found it to be impure. I returned, built a fire and broiled my flying fish and toasted my suami by placing it on a log at the fire's edge. Then I ate and drank some of my water, which was getting smelly by now. Much against my hopes and desires it rained heavily in the night, and I stood with my plastic tarp over the fire to keep it from getting quenched during the worst of it. I slept the rest of the d , @ e wet sands with my plastic tarp folded over and under my naked body. The prahus had upped sail and aweighed long before it rained, and I had supposed the squeek of the pulleys to be the squeek of a bird at first. Saturday, May 11, 1968, Tanjung Batupekat to a place on the beach between the mouth of the Waetina and Waenalu. I timed myself in the morning and found that I had only been 50 minutes from Waenono where I had slept on the beach last night. There was already a headwind as I paddled out over the massive swells that were frothing off the treacherous rocks of Batupekat point. I passed a terribly jagged point of rock shaped like the beak of a giant eagle. A sentinel waiting to crush any passing ship in heavy seas. Between it and the next jutting point--only a little way onward--was a deep inlet that went back into a delightful little cove. A fine spot to take refuge for someone caught there in too - heavy seas. At Waenono Unu was gone and no one could find him for me. Indeed, no one even seemed to show any interest in finding him for me. I was reseived into a chief's house. Then I was taken to the stream to bathe. I had asked for Daud and waskiter was received at his house and begged--almost commanded--his wife to prepare provisions for me. I hadn't even had any breakfast. She made boiled kasbi and chunks of coconut meat. She fired some for me to eat at the house. I had washed out my clothes and hung them out on the fence to dry in the sunshine. I left after finishing breakfast and thanking them. I had testified to the men while waiting. Daud had been ill, and wasn't too well even yet. I had no sooner gotten out through the surf but what someone on the shore announced that Unu had arrived, and I heard him yelling "Jo-Jo" and saw his physical forn on the beach. He ordered me back, saying that I couldn't possibly buck the wind, which was still contrary, and was now strong. I shouted back that I was from Namlea and bound for Leksula and that Ama had built my canoe at Airbuaya, and paddled on. I paddled past Waetina and the seas got steadily worse until I could no longer progress because of my effort being devided between bailing and paddling, and I saw that I would have to land, either voluntarily